82 GPz750 keepin' it real,.. for now

That thing looks really good. Fuel gauge, doesn't say 80 MPH. I like the speedo with the KPH's on it. That's what the Slow Birds are looking at while they're doing 30 in a 55 MPH zone. Where's my bolt. :evil:
Steve

Holy Cow. That panel looks awesome. Was that off a Suzuki? I would love to ditch my 85 MPH speedo.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

ThatGPzGuy wrote: Holy Cow. That panel looks awesome. Was that off a Suzuki? I would love to ditch my 85 MPH speedo.

Kawi, got it from the UK via eBay. Off a GT750 there's a few on there.



GT550 Don't know if there are any differences.



EDIT: The GT750 Shaft Drive is AKA Z750P

It's tempting.
Steve

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationHere's another one.

Those 150 mph LCD pod gauges were fitted to quite a few bikes from 305 to 1100, there may be some differences to the block connector configuration -quite easily sorted. Some gauges have a different redline and top speed.

I checked the Haynes manual, the unit is inch feet, the f is force, not feet.

(strictly speaking force should be in Newtons, Kg is a measure of mass. Until we bring zed 900 and ELR with us to the Martian colonies with it's differing gravity then it is academic)

Tyrell Corp wrote: Those 150 mph LCD pod gauges were fitted to quite a few bikes from 305 to 1100, there may be some differences to the block connector configuration -quite easily sorted. Some gauges have a different redline and top speed.

I checked the Haynes manual, the unit is inch feet, the f is force, not feet.

(strictly speaking force should be in Newtons, Kg is a measure of mass. Until we bring zed 900 and ELR with us to the Martian colonies with it's differing gravity then it is academic)

Good point the book does warn that it was written in the UK, However, I wasn't aware they used a different notation for torque. The way it's printed in that section is still screwed up.

A little more progress as I wait for my cam cap bolts. I extracted some sheered off bolts under the seat, 2 on the right side of the battery tray and the 2 forward bolts on the seat catch assembly. I'll be getting some replacements from the local mega hardware store shortly.

I got the replacement instrument cluster mounted, You were right Tyrell, the LCD group has a male connector while my old one has a female. Rather than cut and splice I just transplanted the original It seems to be working great! There is another difference, There are a red and green wire coming out the back of the cluster just above the speedometer stem and in and out with the rest of the loom that my original cluster didn't have. The red wire must go out in the block connector but the the green one comes out in an adjacent female bullet connector with no corresponding connector in the main loom. Anyone know what this is and if I need it? Is it going to cause me any problems?

Self cancelling turn signal distance sender.

Cool, won't be worrying about that then.

I got the new cam cap bolts in, I buttoned up the cover and pulled out my new handy-dandy eBay special compression tester. The damned thing doesn't work! The needle just jumps up and down and doesn't retain pressure for a reading .... Went to O'reilly's rented theirs and came back.... Drum Roll 120, 130, 125 & 130 psi! :woohoo: WE'RE IN BUSINESS!

At least I will be as soon as I get the carbs back on and sync'd. I was getting them ready to put on yesterday and looking them over one last time before mounting them and noticed that the #4 throttle adjustment screw was all buggered up. It was over torqued at one point and the one side of the slot was busted out. I checked around to see if i could find one locally but it's like a super fine thread, I'll have to go to a dealer or order one I guess. I can just grind the slot in further with a Dremel for the time being. Besides, I'm going to have to wait for the Carbtune to show up at my door as well.

I have a small oil puddle under my right fork leg. Looks like I'll be needing to replace a seal pretty soon as well. Is there an upgrade to the fork legs I can just plug into my triple clamps since I'm going to have to dismount them anyway? Or should I just wait for that type on thing if I ever do a full front end swap?

One thing at a time. The seals aren't too hard to replace. It might be the cheap Schrader valve in the end of the gauge.
Steve