Better Than Nothing---The rebirth of a Superbike.

Kidkawie wrote: A custom paint shop can match that color.

You fire that bike up yet?

That's what my painter did back in Chicagoland in 1979 when he matched the color when he painted my fiberglass front fender. I remember he had a base coat, then a like a color coat, and then a candy coat to match the factory color with the right depth to the paint. Only problem is that George The Painter is dead, buried, and forgotten about!!!!
The motor is a mockup right now. When I build a bike, I have always done the motor last. It seems like all the chassis fabrication, and making things fit takes longer to do than putting a motor together!!!! Plus I am on a very limited budget, and I am collecting what I need for my motor piece by piece when I can spare the cash. Plus my buddy who does all my machining and my cylinder heads is recuperating from some serious surgery. To all you young guys out there, it really SUCKS to get old, trust me!!! So when he is back in business, I should have everything I need to finish my motor.

turboguzzi wrote:

Dr. Gamma wrote: If you are looking for a light set of 18 inch wheels, look into find like some 1986~1987 GSXR750/1100 wheels. The early 1100's had a 2.75X18 front and a 4.00X18 rear. The 750 had a 2.50X18 front and a 3.50X18 rear. And they don't weigh much at all!!!

If my Morris on my MK II start to come apart, I might have to adapt the extra GSXR1100 wheels I have for my GSXR750 LTD. I like the vintage Morris wheels Marvic is making, but at over 3,500 U.S. dollars for a pair. I would have to sell my kidney to afford a set!!!!

if i could only find a set of later 1100 18" with hollow spokes! the early one's spokes cracked like crazy near the rim.... checks yours just in case

GREAT!!!! I never heard of any problems with the early model rims before. Going to be checking mine out before I ride this year for sure!!! THANKS for the tip!!!

I been playing around with a Motion Pro 1/4 turn throttle for my bike. I am NOT impressed with the quality of it AT ALL!!! Plus it uses TWO DIFFERENT SIZE threads for the cable ends!!!! I have NEVER seen that before!! That means you can't use any stock Kawasaki or Suzuki return throttle cables. I have a huge collection of throttle cables of various lengths. Z1r's, GS1000S's, KZ1000S1's, Yoshimura billet aluminum throttle cables, and many more. I think the Motion Pro cables are pure junk in my book, and wouldn't use them on a lawn mower!!!

So what I did was fill the 12mm return cable hole up with MarineTex, and tap it back to 10mm so I could use the high quality O.E.M. cables. I did find a set of perfect length cables in my collection to work with my CR33 Keihins!!! I still do not like the way the throttle feels when I go from WFO and back off the throttle opening. I think its because of all the play where the ball of the return cable fits into the throttle sleeve. Its got all kinds of play. Plus I can't get all the play out of the throttle either. I put the Yoshimura billet aluminum throttle from my GSXR750RG on my bike, and it works perfectly. I got to get a hold of Yoshimura and see if they still make the billet aluminum throttle. I got my throttle many many years ago!!!! It just proves again, you get what you pay for!!!

Plus I finally mounted the N.O.S. MK II front fender I been sitting on for like 15 years. It does look 200% better than my old OW31 fiberglass front fender. It does weigh a lot than the fiberglass fender. But when I am 80 pounds over weight, does it really matter!!!

they used to crack where the arrow is... that large raidused rib worked more as a stress raiser than a reinforcement...

throttle assys can be a pita, nowadays i am sold on yamaha assemblies, from R1-R6, even those off an XT... so easy to work on.

Correy, a member here works at motion pro, should send him a link to your post

My new stock MKI II front fender is a real pain in the butt when it comes to removing or replacing my Bassani pipe on my bike. The pipe now hits the back of the fender when I remove or replace the pipe. I think it is because of the relocated neck position of my frame. I just might go back to my little OW31 front fender instead of fighting with the pipe every time I go to take it off or on!!!!

Got my Lockheed calipers rebuilt and all cleaned up and back on the bike. It was taking forever to bleed them in place on the bike. I finally placed the calipers higher than the master cylinder, and then they took hardly anytime to bleed. Air bubbles go up!!! It helps to have one piece brake lines too!!! And since all the mounting bolts were already drilled for safety wire, I wired them all back up too!!!!

hei gamma, no wonder ti took you ages to bleed, you need to swap around the calipers so that the bleeding nipple is facing up!

turboguzzi wrote: hei gamma, no wonder ti took you ages to bleed, you need to swap around the calipers so that the bleeding nipple is facing up!

That's just a plug on the front half of the caliper, not the bleeder!!! The bleeder is on the back half of caliper, and is damn near impossible to get to when the calipers are mounted on the forks. I take the calipers loose from the forks when I bleed the system. I just stick a piece of wood between the pads, and place the calipers on top of boxes when I bleed them. After pumping about a quart of brake fluid through them, and still had a mushy lever, I then remembered that I used to place the calipers higher than the master cylinder. I have not done any brake bleeding on bikes since back in 2001, so I don't remember on how I did a lot of things back then!!!

Technically you are correct because the bleeder screws do face downward the way I mounted my calipers back in 1980!!! .

I been looking around for a real nice 1/4 turn throttle for my MK II so I can get rid of the P.O.S. motion pro throttle that I just put on my bike. I ran across a gentleman that restores Yoshimura race bikes, and he just happen to have a super nice handmade Yosh billet throttle from the early GSXR750 Superbike program laying around!!!! I could not pass that up. If it didn't work on the Superbike, it would on the LTD FOR SURE!!!!

It finally made it here today, and it a piece of art in my book. Raw aluminum with all the machining marks left on it!!!!!! Plus it fits the Superbike, and it works like a throttle should, no play, and no steps when you open or close it!!!! Unlike the motion pro piece of junk. I am going to let my machinist take a look at it and see if he can reduce the gap between both pieces after you tighten it down. Besides that I love it!!!!

Nice.
Got any pics of the inside?

Leon

gamma, this might be of interest to you... also for the street

Continental trying to conquer the classic racing market, so now also Dunlop is offering 18" "almost slick" radials.

the 150-160 rears are more oriented to early 80's superbikes, but who knows, maybe people wil find of ways to fitting to earlier bikes

shame they dont do also a 130 rear like Conti do

strangely, the tires do not show in any official dunlop site.... odd

www.classic-raceshop.com/brands/dunlop/d...alpha-13-110-80-r-18 ?

www.classic-raceshop.com/brands/dunlop/d...alpha-13-150-70-r-18 ?

turboguzzi wrote: gamma, this might be of interest to you... also for the street

Continental trying to conquer the classic racing market, so now also Dunlop is offering 18" "almost slick" radials.

the 150-160 rears are more oriented to early 80's superbikes, but who knows, maybe people wil find of ways to fitting to earlier bikes

shame they dont do also a 130 rear like Conti do

strangely, the tires do not show in any official dunlop site.... odd

www.classic-raceshop.com/brands/dunlop/d...alpha-13-110-80-r-18 ?

www.classic-raceshop.com/brands/dunlop/d...alpha-13-150-70-r-18 ?

Too bad that I have a 2.50X19 inch front Morris wheel, not a 18 inch!!!!!

So that means I got to stick with the Avons!!!!

Finally got my hose ends in for my rear brake line. My local dealer raped me on the price of the Galfer aluminum hose end. But I needed one quickly so I paid the price!!!! Got the master cylinder and its reservoir all mounted up, and finished bleeding the rear brake. I even have a working brake light now too!!!! Now its really street legal. Got to start saving so I can buy my Ohlins rear shocks. Guess I won't be eating too many meals for the next few months!!!!