TOPIC:

I guess I should clarify the last two photos are test fitting the part on my ugly looking temporary mock up cases, not jberger635's actual 1394 engine....

Very cool oil cooler block

Start the production lines and turn out 50 or so

Dave

Kray-Z wrote: I guess I should clarify the last two photos are test fitting the part on my ugly looking temporary mock up cases, not jberger635's actual 1394 engine....

Hell, I'm lucky to get a Chinese pedestal drill, my mouth is drooling looking at your toys.

Street Fighter LTD wrote: Very cool oil cooler block

Start the production lines and turn out 50 or so

Dave

CAD model is on file!

Bozo wrote:

Kray-Z wrote: I guess I should clarify the last two photos are test fitting the part on my ugly looking temporary mock up cases, not jberger635's actual 1394 engine....

Hell, I'm lucky to get a Chinese pedestal drill, my mouth is drooling looking at your toys.

This one is Chinese, too! It cost about $6K U.S., and will pay for itself in the next few years with savings over how much I would have to spend paying other people for basic machine work at $120+ / hour...

It even came with a Digital Read Out, variable speed up to 3400 rpm (high speed for precision miniature work is hard to find in smaller bench-top machines, oddly, as small diameter cutters require very high speeds or they break), and power x and y axis feeds installed, and the dealer also threw in the 6" swivel machine vise and a set of table clamps for free. I decided I would rather have a brand new Chinese machine than a worn out and beat up used American or European mill, as I couldn't hope to afford one of those new.... and as long as I'm careful in using and maintaining it, it should last a long time in my home shop. The overall quality is not as good as the grade of cast iron in the old Bridgeport's and such, but it isn't that bad, either. The power head is reputedly built and assembled in Taiwan (better than Chinese). The only issue I had in the beginning was an intermittent short in the work light that caused the electrical system to mysteriously blow the fuses (expensive ones at that, too!) and shut down. Since fixing that it has been very good to me. Next I plan on developing tooling so I can cut valve seats on this.

Plus now I can claim to have the kraziest power tool of anyone I know - all 2800 lbs. of it!

might want to look at
www.goodson.com/3-D-Fast-Cut/
before you spend to much development time on seat cutting setups for a mill.

leon

531blackbanshee wrote: might want to look at
www.goodson.com/3-D-Fast-Cut/
before you spend to much development time on seat cutting setups for a mill.

leon

Thanks Leon.

I am familiar with those kits; they are almost exactly what I had in mind for making the tools I want. But now I'm playing, not working, so the price of ready made specialized equipment isn't going to work. I only wish I had the bucks for all the stuff in the Sunnen catalog, and the time to just play in the shop whenever the mood hits! Too bad I still have to work for a living (every now and then), damn it!

Back in my car racing engine builder days, we had a Sunnen VGS 20, an ancient 2000 lbs. 48 tooth carbide cutter wheel surfacing machine for blocks and heads, all the best Sunnen boring and honing machines for cylinders, rods, and bearings, Sioux valve grinders, some state of the art computerized balancing machines, magna-fluxing machine, ultra sound kits, all manner of tooling and fixtures, a 16 x 42" lathe and 2 HP Bridgeport mill, hot tanks and jet washers, crank grinder, a Super Flo flow bench, a huge cabinet full of the best Mitutoyo, Starret, and Sunnen measuring tools, direct phone numbers to some of the best minds in racing engine technology and innovations (guys like Jack Roush and the engineers at ARP fasteners were always so willing to answer questions and share knowledge and advice - like "do yourself a favor and throw the damn torque wrench out into the bushes behind your shop" - I know that sounds nuts, but you have to know the rest of the story on that, then it would make sense....), access to an engine dyno room, and all the other toys that go into making brutal amounts of power from antiquated push rod OHV engines... although I ended up hating working there in the end (good way to starve to death), but I loved all the fun and all those toys!

Kray-Z wrote: - I know that sounds nuts, but you have to know the rest of the story on that, then it would make sense....)

I'd be interested in the rest of the story on that. You are doing killer work here sir, keep it up!

DoctoRot wrote:

Kray-Z wrote: - I know that sounds nuts, but you have to know the rest of the story on that, then it would make sense....)

I'd be interested in the rest of the story on that. You are doing killer work here sir, keep it up!

Sure - The comment came about over installing connecting rods on ultra high performance v-8's (one of our 292 C.I. Chevy smallies revved to 11 500...Gary Chomiski's old NHRA comp. eliminator corvette. It set a NHRA record with our engine in it, at the mile high nats, I think. As far as I know, he went on to become a crew chief for one of the pro NHRA Pro-Stock teams - BTW).

Even with BME billet machined aluminum, or the various forged H- beam rods like Carrillo's, the weak point is the damn big end rod bolts or cap screws stretching past the yield point and subsequently breaking, We were trying to get some of the 330+ cubic inch engines out past 10 500 rpm and needed the strongest rod big end fasteners we could get. ARP was helping us out with custom made stretch to yield stress high tensile strength stainless steel cap screws (if you ever wondered why some bolts can only be used once and replaced, now you know). They instructed us to only use their bolt stretch gauge method to install the fasteners, which basically means using a dial gauge to precisely measure how much the fastener is stretching as it is being tightened...and to "do yourself a favor and throw the damn torque wrench out into the bushes behind your shop".

Really, up till then, I had invested in some very expensive torque wrenches and confidently trusted in them! After that experience, I did some research and found just how much variability was involved in tightening threaded fasteners by measuring applied torque - it is alarming! That is why racing and big industrial engines (diesels) often specify using bolt stretch measurements when both ends of the fastener are accessible, or "torque turn angle" measurements when the fastener is "blind" (only one end visible). Much more reliable than a torque wrench...