TOPIC:

531blackbanshee wrote: so i see you went ahead and ordered yours in HOLY Sh!T size

leon

That sums it up rather well....

It was pointed out to me many years ago that 85 mm pistons cost about the same as 75 mm pistons - Go Big or Go Home!!!!!

But really - then why only 1395 and not max out with the 1428 (1428 is the current maximum size normally available for the later KZ-J style engines)???

The 1395 kit gives you that one last chance overbore (1 mm) size, just in case your engine goes BOOM!

650ed wrote: Next step - Cut cylinders on yellow line; install new oval liners; and install oval pistons. Result = BIG block! Ed

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I would give my right and left arms (inside joke for those who know) to get the opportunity to build an NR type engine!!!!

But as far as I know, only Honda Motor Corp. Inc. has the technology, tools, and cubic feet of dollars needed to do it!!!!

A little side history for anyone interested - when developing the oval piston, 32 valve NR500 for GP racing in 1979-80, in an effort to compete with the 500 cc two strokes using a 500 cc "4 cylinder" four stroke (good luck!), Honda technicians were strapping hand build, prototype engines worth upwards of $250,000 U.S. each, down on the dyno and revving them to 20,000+ RPM and blowing them up completely, one after the last. When an observing motorcycle journalist from England commented about how wasteful and crude that seemed to be, one of the Honda engineers replied "We are short of time, not money"!

Holy crap. those bores and pistons are BIG/ Now I really can't wait to hear how this goes.

Looks like you are going to get an offset sprocket for the 1000J, how are you going to prevent the sprocket from dropping off?.

I've read that the 1000J and GPZ motors had a problem in that area (my GPZ might have the same issue)

Bozo wrote: Looks like you are going to get an offset sprocket for the 1000J, how are you going to prevent the sprocket from dropping off?.

I've read that the 1000J and GPZ motors had a problem in that area (my GPZ might have the same issue)

Both of us are going with home - designed 530 chain conversions, with offset sprockets on the order of 1/2" or more. Jberger635 uses a GSXR1000 6" rear wheel, 190/50 section tire, so the frame likely needs to be notched, plated over, and welded for chain clearance. His is using the late model Uni-Track GPz1100-A under-cut transmission, which has a solid external thread countershaft and uses a lock nut to hold the sprocket, much stronger than the KZ's which use a bolt and internal thread. I believe some previous owner had modified his trans, as it is undercut on all the gears, and the Kawasaki "positive neutral finder" has been eliminated.

One thing is missing in this story - jberger635 hasn't told the epic story of the "Crankshaft Saga" yet . I'll leave that one to him...

Kray-Z wrote:

Bozo wrote: Looks like you are going to get an offset sprocket for the 1000J, how are you going to prevent the sprocket from dropping off?.

I've read that the 1000J and GPZ motors had a problem in that area (my GPZ might have the same issue)

Both of us are going with home - designed 530 chain conversions, with offset sprockets on the order of 1/2" or more. Jberger635 uses a GSXR1000 6" rear wheel, 190/50 section tire, so the frame likely needs to be notched, plated over, and welded for chain clearance. His is using the late model Uni-Track GPz1100-A under-cut transmission, which has a solid external thread countershaft and uses a lock nut to hold the sprocket, much stronger than the KZ's which use a bolt and internal thread. I believe some previous owner had modified his trans, as it is undercut on all the gears, and the Kawasaki "positive neutral finder" has been eliminated.

I should also mention the late GPz countershaft is a "drop" in replacement on a KZ, I THINK!!! They aren't easy to find, though.

I recall jberger635 mentioning an outboard countershaft sprocket bearing support and plate too....not a bad idea with the potential for this much TORQUE (ahhhh - torque - gotta have mountain moving torque!) and HP!

Sorry, no machine shop today for making oil cooler adapter or engine mounts - wind and / or lightning damaged my utility pole and transformer wiring, knocked out my power from noon - 9:00 p.m.

At least they came today to fix it - I was getting very concerned - the pizza was getting cold and the beer was getting warm...

Kray-Z wrote:

Bozo wrote: Looks like you are going to get an offset sprocket for the 1000J, how are you going to prevent the sprocket from dropping off?.

I've read that the 1000J and GPZ motors had a problem in that area (my GPZ might have the same issue)

Both of us are going with home - designed 530 chain conversions, with offset sprockets on the order of 1/2" or more. Jberger635 uses a GSXR1000 6" rear wheel, 190/50 section tire, so the frame likely needs to be notched, plated over, and welded for chain clearance. His is using the late model Uni-Track GPz1100-A under-cut transmission, which has a solid external thread countershaft and uses a lock nut to hold the sprocket, much stronger than the KZ's which use a bolt and internal thread. I believe some previous owner had modified his trans, as it is undercut on all the gears, and the Kawasaki "positive neutral finder" has been eliminated.

I also have a 530 chain set-up but I have an internal thread output shaft, I am worried about this setup failing.

Bozo wrote:

Kray-Z wrote:

Bozo wrote: Looks like you are going to get an offset sprocket for the 1000J, how are you going to prevent the sprocket from dropping off?.

I've read that the 1000J and GPZ motors had a problem in that area (my GPZ might have the same issue)

I also have a 530 chain set-up but I have an internal thread output shaft, I am worried about this setup failing.

Here is my guesstimate on that...

If your engine is making less than 75 ft-lb. peak torque, and under 115 hp., you will probably be ok. under normal "enthusiastic" road use. Watch for signs of overstressing the countershaft bearing - things like the seal leaking, abnormal bearing and drive chain noise, With that much offset, it would be worth it in the long run to get an outboard bearing support set up, bought or custom made.

I wouldn't expect the shaft itself to break at near stock power levels unless you severely shock load the drive train. So don't expect good things to happen if you drag race, do burn-outs, dump the clutch or do clutch up wheelies.

Given the same amount of peak engine torque, offset sprockets will overstress the shaft bearings worst, followed by the tendency to create extra bending stress on the shaft. Replacing the stock sprocket bolt with a stronger one (higher grade of steel) that threads into the shaft as deeply as possible without bottoming will help prevent breakage. Clean the threads thoroughly and use low or medium strength thread locker - do not exceed Kawasaki's recommended torque value when tightening the bolt!

Using a high tensile strength steel stud and nut would be better yet, but you aren't likely going to find what you need at the local ACE hardware store.

If your engine is making significantly more power than stock, and you are using it to it's full potential, you are riding it on borrowed time, my friend....

Invest in a good (good ones are hard to find) GPz Uni-Track transmission set, at minimum, for use up to about 150 h.p. and get an outside bearing support installed.

After that, you will be measuring the cost of parts in $K's. Check out the drive train and clutch sections of APE's KZ Zone.

So what am I doing? I have a nearly new and pristine stock GPz trans I've been saving specifically for my 1395 big block. (Note - the picture I posted of the dark cast - iron grey painted engine with the top case bored out isn't my 1395 engine. I'm putting that one together to go in a bike I'm selling). My engine will be installed in a custom made chassis (look up the Bimota KB3 and Egli GPz1100's to get an idea of what I want to build around the engine) that incorporates a massively braced solid engine mounting system and outside bearing support. I'll be crossing my fingers that it all holds together too, until I can afford to install billet machined chrome- moly shafts, a billet clutch basket, aircraft turbine engine grade bearings, orient express gears, etc... . And I don't ever intend to dump the clutch until then...

Apart from porting the head and fitting A1 cam shafts the engine is dead stock (all parts are new, including original size pistons) the offset looks bigger in the picture than it actually is. There is a larger offset sprocket you can buy but this one is only 8mm (the other is 15mm - I think). I've already done as you suggested - using loctite and high tension bolt but I'm think of drilling / threading a small hole in the sprocket and putting a screw against the bolt head to prevent it from getting loose.
150Hp - I WISH
Thanks for your input

Making the big - ass oil cooler take off and return main oil gallery feed adapter from billet 6061. Fittings are -10 and -8, respectively....

Designed to work with carbs and injection (version II ).

And yes, you could say I went for the "deluxe" version when I bought my electric drill!!!!