TOPIC:

Hey Guys,

Thanx again for all feedback.
This weekend the swing arm will be fitted. Got the guys at work to finally use their machines to acctually do some important stuff likte components to my build

Needed to modify this part:



So I made a prototype:





Got the engineer to draw a 3D drawing



And got the guys running the laser cut it out for me.



I also got an axel and busings turned for the swing arm.




Now I don´t have any excuses not having the swing arm on by sunday !

Update: 1/2 a rolling chassie

Yes, I always deliver...sunday it is and the swing arm is fitted !

Bracket for upper spring mount:



Bracket for dog bone mount:



Welded into place:



Welded into place:



Let´s have a look:



Let´s put the swing arm in:



And some close ups:






Jeezz.....it feels nice to be 1/2 way to a rolling chassie !

so far so good, but i am afraid that on the monoshock adaptation you are going to have "some" problems....
leaving aside the torsion resistance of a flat bar for the top shock mount, according to all i know the change you made in the link geometry is going to leave you with way too much stroke and too low an effective spring rate at the wheel.
one easy test that you can do is to remove the spring from the shock, put the shock backon bike and check how much total wheel travel you get.
if its more than 120-130mm, then you'll need to find out different geomtry.
theother thing is that with such bug change in link geometry it could be better to do some plywood links, to check what ride height you het with load on the seat.....

another easy mod would have been to use the shock length adjuster you can find in any ZX6R so that you can adjust ride height. see pic

newer model r6s have the same pivot stem on the top as well. 03 r6+

Hey again TurboG !

I know if you want to do this by the book then you should draw it all up i CAD and see how the parts move compared to eachother. But..I basically did the same thing on my last bike and with some eazy assumptions it all came out allright.

To get correct ride hight I added 3 cm wheel travel for weight of engine and driver in decompressed state. If I dont like this hight I can always adjust the shock (is ajdustable) or change the dog bone to longer or shorter one. This makes the ride hight to change.

I of cause checked the linkage movement before manufactring the plate to spot obvious faults.
Sat on the bike and jumped a bit and it feels a bit stiff but with the engine in and other parts it will be softer. I am not worried a bit that this will be an issue. What is very important in this stage is to get the wheel, frame and swing in a perfect straight line. Spent some hours to line everything up.

lookin good arnold!!!!

keep us posted,
leon

Perhaps you should change this threads title to"manufacturing awesome for dummies". This work is unreal, can't wait.

Thanx guys ! You are too kind..

Need to clarify, I did some calculations wiht a buddie at work regarding the strenght of the shock mounth. It´s good for 1300 kg or 2866 lbs.

Unless my wife puts on too much weight I´ll be good to go

bike 220 kg + one big swede 100 kg + girlfriend (not saying how much she weights ) + luggage and total could be easily 400 kg. so lets say that about 250 kg of that is on the rear wheel. Hit a bump that bottoms the suspension, lets say a 3G bump = 750kg, multiply by the leverage ratio of the link about 3:1, and there, you are over 2000kg of force at the shock mount....

I do not want to break your pair of you-know-what, but I would build the top mount with a tube that has higher torsion strength...we want you safe and sound!

Thanx Guzzi,

I know that you have the best intentions mate.
It´s good to have someone raising a finger to be aware.
Have thoughts to weld in a cross section to make the flat bar into a T-section, to (as you say) increase torsion strenght. Or even one at the lower end so the section will be like a 90 degrees flipped H-section.