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Nah, I was judging by what it takes to get to my daughter's place. 98 miles. I hit reserve and put in 3 gallons US. All this time the petcock has been lying to me. Set it on run until it stopped. Ran the stock one on reserve and have a little over 1/2 gallon. Aftermarket SUCKS.
Steve

Well things went fairly smooth. If I have to do it all over again cause of a leak...I'll know how to do it faster now. Left the black plugs alone, I was running outta time and it was stupid hot & humid out there. I'm sure it'll leak a lot less now if at all, I did a really nice job cleaning off the old gasket material. One thing that bothered me were looking at the camshafts....a couple of 'em had a gold/copper finish to them instead of chrome. Looked like they heated up too much. I also found the "small leak" was actually several "small leaks" all over the place lol. Cleaned up the cover nicely, there was a lot of old caked-on oil in the middle where I couldn't see.

I'm considering two things.....eliminating this hose thing they attached over the engine for EPA standards that allows air back into the engine. It's just a hose that goes from the air box to the top/front of of the valve cover.
Secondly, I'm considering getting one of those Dyna S coils, heard they're about $100-$150, but basically you never have to worry about the coils again. Not that I'm having trouble with them, but they are the originals right now and I don't know how much life is left in them, so it'd be one less thing to worry about.

I also swapped out the self-cancelling unit, we'll see if that fixed the "turn signal self-cancelling not working" issue. Honestly, electrical work on any vehicle really intimidates me. I've been staring at the replacement part sitting on the shelf for 3 months now lol. I figure while I was at the gasket and workin' on it and all it'd be stupid not to do it. Wasn't too hard, essentially plug & play, but sifting through that rats nest of wires allowed me to clean out the really tight crevices in there. I'll see if it works tomorrow as the black gasket material takes 24 hours to cure.

What OHM coils do you have?
Steve

swest wrote: What OHM coils do you have?
Steve

Manual says:
Primary Winding 1.8 - 2.8 ohms
Secondary Winding 10.4 - 15.6 ohms
Pickup coil 360 - 540 ohms

Oh and in other news, bought a set NGK B8ES spark plugs, brought an original plug to compare....it all matched up great. Until I attempted to screw off the little cap, and snapped it off. The ones I bought had unremovable caps, so I couldn't fit the coil plug ends onto these plugs. I'm worried if I may be SOL on getting the right kind of plugs. I'll have to do more research on this.

I thought so. Wrong coils for the Dyna S. You'll have to buy them too or resisters. That happened with one plug. B8ES and others like it are supposed to have removable terminals. I took it back and they gave me a new one.
Steve

The job was pretty much a complete failure.

Found the valve gasket leaking above the front right black plug, I may have needed to put more liquid sealer on that spot. In addition, changing out the signal canceller didn't fix the problem, signal still doesn't shut off after you make a turn.

However it did feel to me though that the bike had more power. Maybe it was just me though. I did find some Dyna S coils that made 2.2 ohms.

Dyna S is for 3 OHM and up.
Steve

swest wrote: Dyna S is for 3 OHM and up.
Steve

My bad, it's not "dyna S" but it is Dyna.... z1enterprises ...it is 2.2 ohms, right in the butter zone.

NO idea what wires to get though....it does worry me though that my coil wires are sitting within millimeters if not touching the valve cover. I tried moving them off as much as I could but it just wasn't happening. Perhaps some heat protective sleeving is in order.

Oh and as far as those spark plugs....it's weird, I have BR8ES plugs in the bike now...they work fine. But both the manual and the stores computer has B8ES plugs. I'll still have to do a comparison between the two plugs as I haven't put them in yet, but I found this to be very strange. More details about this to follow.

Shouldn't be a problem unless there's a leak.
Steve

So update on those spark plugs....they are physically identical except I noticed the "R" under NGK. I'm thinking maybe the electrode might be a bit different? I put the new ones in, ran just fine.




And here's a pic of that gold colored camshaft....


I've inflated my tires too, about 32-33 in both front & rear, if that's unusual lemme know. Front one was at like 20psi lol. I also lubricated the choke pin with some WD-40, much smoother operation now.

Gold color is normal. R is for resister. Check what it says on the sidewall of the tires. I run 45 LBS in mine. At 30 it would waddle like a duck.
Steve

Like swest wrote, R is for resistor. Those plugs are designed to reduce RF interference. When using those plugs, be sure that you are NOT using resistor wires or resistor caps. Too much resistance can create problems.

For tire pressure, go to the tire manufacturers web site and use what the company recommends.