Need confirmation that timing is set wrong on my 1976 KZ900

Thanks asphalt900  for the tip. I use the valves that was in the engine not sure they are oem but i think so. I did not have to grind any of the valvestem ends to fit shims into the 2 valves that had zero clearance .The smallest shim that is installed now after adjustments is 220 so that is good.

Something else while on the valve topic that is essential! Did you buy new valves or just reuse your Z1/900 valves? Reason i mention it is i use the 77-80 (round-keeper) newer style, when doing all heads of the 72-80 Z range. Your KZ900 still retained the (square keepers) of the Z1. Anyway they don't interchange, square cut-out in stem requires square keeper/collar and round for round.

Well you answered the question before i hit the new topic button! 220 puts you at the thin side but still leaves you a little bit of wiggle room.

yes 220 is plenty space i think the shim sizes starts at 200. I dont know it my keepers is rounded or square i post some pics from when reinstalled valves and new seals .I reused the valves that was in engine since they was in spec  after measured the stems for wear and for runout






 

Excellent, a matching configuration. Square bits to square bits, this doesn't make You a Square though, ha

So i have now bought everything that is needed to get the top portion back in the bike.Will still have to wait some more because the bike is stored in another place.Anyway i have these gaskets that i bought from cmsnl .The sump-gasket misses a crossover portion .I had a look at mr Millyard z1B 900 rebuild video and could see that the gasket he uses has the crossover portion.I can also see that it dont have any purpose so maybe that is why it is deleted fro the gasket i have? On the cmsnl site it say it is superseeded.Then i also has this new valvecover gasket that is marked genuine. I dont like the color it is almost pink and dont look good with the black rubber halfmoons .I may be picky but i think it looks strange.I may reuse the old gasket instead of this pink .And then there is the mystery where the small pieces of rubber that loooks like they are from a O ring.I dont understand where they are coming from the theory now is that they are from the o-ring placed on the oil filter bolt.Is that possible ??  or they may be old oring that was on the tachdrive ? i can not measure the pieces now because they got sucked in to a vacuum cleaner and are now at the junkyard They was not from the oil pump or the one in the main oil galley between the cases because that ones has a angled profile. I will remove the sump and look more when i get the bike.

That sump gasket is fine.
The early versions had the joining strip which was only there to keep the sides parallel and stop them flopping about when fitting.
Later versions didn't have it as it's not really needed.
Depending on supplier some will use the early design and some don't.


 

Thanks for the info Zed1015
I also got this base gasket not sure it is oem the guy i bought it from told it is old and from a kawasaki dealer that he bought lots of parts from when they closed down.It is with asbestos so that is better that the paper stuff that is sold today. I wanted to use coated metal base gaskets that i can stack if the piston protrusion gets to high,but i can not find any made in metal for the kz900

You can buy aluminium block spacers in different thicknesses for adjusting the deck height and comp ratio and you coat them with a sealer such as Loctite 3020. 
They are usually sized for the bigger over bore liners though and under normal circumstances they are not needed for a stock build unless the head or block have been heavily skimmed.
Stock fiber base gaskets are 0.5mm ( 20 thou ) thick and it is safe to use two of those stacked if needed..

 

zed1015 wrote:

You can buy aluminium block spacers in different thicknesses for adjusting the deck height and comp ratio and you coat them with a sealer such as Loctite 3020. 
They are usually sized for the bigger over bore liners though and under normal circumstances they are not needed for a stock build unless the head or block have been heavily skimmed.
Stock fiber base gaskets are 0.5mm ( 20 thou ) thick and it is safe to use two of those stacked if needed..





Thanks again zed1015  you are a valuble sorce of information!
I did not know about the spacers and not that i can stack 2 fiber gasket. I just had a look at the resepiet from the workshop that bored and skimmed the block and it say that it is skimmed 0.06mm so that was not much .I thaught it was skimmed 0.16mm
I think the head is also skimmed by a PO  .I will not know for sure if i need any more gaskets now before i get the bike back in the garage and hoping it will be fine so the mounting of the engine will not be delayed.

One more thing it was only 4 copper washers on the studs so i have bought 8 more not sure if it is supposed to be copper washers on the studs where the oil is not flowing



 

On the early motors they were all copper.
Steve

Only the 4 outer studs really need copper washers as these seal under the head nuts against oil seepage from those outer studs holes that also serve as oil galleries to the head.
The other 8 can be steel because they don't need to create an oil seal but using copper on all 12 is ok and is what i prefer myself.
Be sure to anneal the new copper washers before use to soften them as they are hardened from the stamping process.
Heat them to cherry red and quench in water to flash off the oxides.
As you probably know they will anneal the same whether quenched or air cooled but quenching removes the blackened oxide scale .