Need confirmation that timing is set wrong on my 1976 KZ900

well that is a bummer   i did not pay too much for them .i bought them from here www.bts24.co.uk/en/motorcycleparts/engin...1100forkawasaki.html

I have been looking at the set in the  link you provided from IMD and may have to buy that.I will wait and see what i get.
 

Rolf1976_KZ900 wrote:

well that is a bummer   i did not pay too much for them .i bought them from here www.bts24.co.uk/en/motorcycleparts/engin...1100forkawasaki.html

I have been looking at the set in the  link you provided from IMD and may have to buy that.I will wait and see what i get.

 

That price is unbelievably cheap.
They usually average around £100 each .

Its been a while since last update,but my elbow pain turned into a hell with several trips to ER not sure what is going on,but now my swelled painful arm has gotten okay.One thing i know is i will never lap valves again if it was that causing it.Now i can confirm that  zed1015 was right about the sleeves i bought from BTS .They was way to big .They almost got the same size that my FJ1200 sleeves. So then i contacted IMD pistons and ordered new sleeves from them i have now recived them and they are ecaxtly same measurements as the oem kz900 sleeves.I also bought pistonrings from IMD pistons.IMD has very good service so i can recomend them!.Tonight i have removed the old sleeves ,but not installed the new sleeves since there is a problem i will post about that a little later.Here is just a pic of the sleeves compared

.I have started to measure the protrusion on the new sleeves just to check that the sleeves are fully seated after installed.I need advice because when i honed the old sleeves one of them (cyl 3 ) started to spin in the boreIt is not very loose and when block is in room temp the sleeve has a tight fit and i can not push it out by hands.The plan is to buy some loctite sleeve retainer and use that before installing .Is that needed ? when thinking about it the cylinderbarrel gets really hot when engine is running and all the sleeves will then only be secured by the pressure from the bolted on head.?  But i will use the loctite sleeve retainer fluid anyway because the sleeve maycome loose again when the machineshop going to bore and hone.

Once the liners have been installed the barrel top needs to be given a light skim to level them all flush with the gasket face.
Many of these liners are a loose fit from the factory ( i've had some that would push out by hand from cold ) and if you think the fit of any of the liners may be too loose then use liner retainer on install.
Such as  PERMATEX® 64000 HIGH TEMPERATURE SLEEVE RETAINER, 6 ML UK Stock | eBay
You should maybe measure the OD of the new liners and if there is any variation then use the largest one in number 3..
On install i always heat the block and drop in the cold liners then set it on blocks with the spigots hanging and let it cool with a weight on the liner tops to keep them seated.
When the head is on the liners will be clamped down by the torque of the head.
 

Thanks for advice and the link Zed1015. I know permatex is good stuff i used the ultra black silicone before on other things. dont think i will find it here in Norway so i was planning to use loctite 638 that a store here have in stock.Good point about measure the liner outer diameter and see if one is bigger i will do that

.Now the sleeves has been installed.Im not 100% satisfied with the job because the sleeves was sitting a little higher in the bores. not sure why. Heated the barrels with hairdryer the sleeves was room temperature and was easy to just push in .Used loctite 648 that is for cylindrical stuff and has high heat and high impact resistance.Used heavy weights on top of the sleeves an let it sit for 24 hours

The sleeves are rarely bored exactly central and the heights between individual liner flanges are rarely the same.
Once you are certain the liners are fully seated in the block the liner tops and gasket face will need a light skim to bring them all level.

 

zed1015 wrote:

The sleeves are rarely bored exactly central and the heights between individual liner flanges are rarely the same.
Once you are certain the liners are fully seated in the block the liner tops and gasket face will need a light skim to bring them all level.


Thanks for that info Zed1015 .Next will be to get it wrapped up with the pistons and send it to a machine shop on the other side of the country .I will reuse to old pistons since everything was in spec, but have bought new piston rings from IMD.



 

I have bought some gaskets from a guy in sweden.He was not sure it they are oem ,but told me they are coming from a big lot of parts from a kawasaki dealer .Can anyone confirm this gaskets base and head are oem?

I have bought most parts for replacing the camchain and sliders / gears.One thing i notised was that the top idler gear and bracket did not look the same as the one that was fitted on my bike.Then i had a look in the shop manual from 1977 and on the pics there it looks like the one i have recieved. Is this a newer type top roller? my bike is 1976

The one shown has a replaceable roller the other does not.
Steve