Need confirmation that timing is set wrong on my 1976 KZ900

Been doing some more on the head .The valveseats was worce than i first thaught so had to cut them so far only done intake 1 and 4. Also done some more measurements and it looks promising .I thaugt the inner diameter of the valveguide was out of spec after the wobbletest of the valves ,but after using a boreguide in them theuy are all inside spec so will not replace the valveguides. The cylinderbores has some skratches but will post about that later.

Nice FJ 1200!
We've never stumbled across one in our searches for bikes to resurrect.

Kelly E wrote:

Nice FJ 1200!
We've never stumbled across one in our searches for bikes to resurrect.


Thanks Kelly  bought this in 2016  payd 1100 usd for it. It is a 1986  i have painted and restored it .Before this i had a 1984 FJ1100 blue and white color
They are very easy to wrench on .

And sorry to all for my bad english  i can see now that i have typed valveface width  wrong  on all pictures

 

Rolf1976_KZ900 post=890300 userid=67842

Kelly E wrote:

Nice FJ 1200!
We've never stumbled across one in our searches for bikes to resurrect.


Thanks Kelly  bought this in 2016  payd 1100 usd for it. It is a 1986  i have painted and restored it .Before this i had a 1984 FJ1100 blue and white color
They are very easy to wrench on .

And sorry to all for my bad english  i can see now that i have typed valveface width  wrong  on all pictures

 

Don't worry Rolf your English is far superior to most members "Norwegian" 

Wookie58 wrote:

Rolf1976_KZ900 post=890300 userid=67842

Kelly E wrote:

Nice FJ 1200!
We've never stumbled across one in our searches for bikes to resurrect.


Thanks Kelly  bought this in 2016  payd 1100 usd for it. It is a 1986  i have painted and restored it .Before this i had a 1984 FJ1100 blue and white color
They are very easy to wrench on .

And sorry to all for my bad english  i can see now that i have typed valveface width  wrong  on all pictures

 

Don't worry Rolf your English is far superior to most members "Norwegian" 

And quite a few english speaking members.

 

Not finished with the valves had to stop becuase i have a tennis elbow pain and that is not a good combination with valve lapping.So i started take a closer look in the cylinder bores.I found stripes in cyl 2 and 3.Im not sure if it is scratches or craks !. when using fingernail i can feel it in one place.I have measured the bores several times with bore dial gauge and the piston to wall clearance is inside spec so hoping a little honing will fix it. If they are cracks i will have to replace the sleeves. Did a little test with penetrating oil and a pistonring to see if the oil seeped out .I may take 2 of the sleeves out and check how they look on outside.

Do you have a local engine builder that could "magnaflux" it ?

Chances are it's carbon scratches. When you clean the pistons you can never get all the carbon out unless you're very carful with a vac and solvent moving the pistons a little, sucking it out over and over until no carbon is left. Pistons that have a thick coat of oil and carbon should be removed and cleaned in a sink. Dry carbon is easiest to get rid of. A light hone might do the trick and running them in might make them go away completely. 
Steve

Wookie58 wrote:

Do you have a local engine builder that could "magnaflux" it ?

No i will have to send it a long way to do that.Silly enough there is no machine shops here in Oslo !. But i will first try to hone a little more without getting the bore out of spec .so far just done some light deglaze /honing i will try some more and if they still there i will replace the sleeves.I will maybe pull them out and check more.
 

SWest wrote:

Chances are it's carbon scratches. When you clean the pistons you can never get all the carbon out unless you're very carful with a vac and solvent moving the pistons a little, sucking it out over and over until no carbon is left. Pistons that have a thick coat of oil and carbon should be removed and cleaned in a sink. Dry carbon is easiest to get rid of. A light hone might do the trick and running them in might make them go away completely. 
Steve

I dont know what the Po has done with the engine ,but when i  teared it down there was only a light layer of carbon on the pistons i  took off the pistons and cleaned them in fuel system cleaner and a brass brush it was easy to clean the carbon off.The bores are in spec and inside spec for size taper and out of round and they have not been bored out before.I will try as you say to light hone them and see what it looks like then.I have found a set that has both sleeves pistons and rings . I can install the sleeves ,but will have to get them bored and honed and skim the head and that is very expensive here in Norway .

 

.Done a little more honing today to see if the scratches vent away.I measured the bores several times with the boredialgauge to check that i did not mess up.I was prepared to buy new sleeves anyway because i suspected
the sleeves was cracked. The scratches was 99% gone after a little honing and they are still well inside wall
to piston clearance spec.Then i desided to take the sleeves out to be 100% sure they are not cracked.
Not fun riding a bike that may have cracked sleeves .

Looking positive Rolf, and you have "peace of mind" which is worth it's weight in gold