1976 Kz 900 A4

  • hardrockminer
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13 Dec 2020 19:37 - 13 Dec 2020 19:41 #840001 by hardrockminer
Replied by hardrockminer on topic 1976 Kz 900 A4

Skidmark wrote: Beautiful bike!


Thank you! One of two. Here is the other one. In the photo it has a close ratio transmission, hence no kicker. This fall I changed the tranny to a standard and added a kicker, but haven't had a chance to ride the bike yet. I have a multi-vehicle classic plate that allows me to run any of my three vintage bikes when I wish. I just have to change the plate to the one I want to ride.

Apologies to Mikaw for purloining his thread.


I have several restored bikes along with a 2006 Goldwing with a sidecar. My wife has a 2019 Suzuki DR 650 for on and off road.
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Last edit: 13 Dec 2020 19:41 by hardrockminer.
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14 Dec 2020 19:01 #840056 by Mikaw
Replied by Mikaw on topic 1976 Kz 900 A4
Bike porn is always welcome!

So I chickened out. I found a custom shop about 40 minutes away that will true the rim for $70. A spoke torque wrench is more. But I did get a tidbit of info from a grumpy HD snob. He was initially interested in the job and ranted about how experienced he was and mentioned that Some HD front hubs have a 3/32 offset in the rim. When I mentioned what the rim was for he refused to work on it. Anyway I’m assuming if you measured from outside face of the rim to the Center Line of the hub one measurement would be 3/32” longer. Is this anything that needs to be addressed with my rear rim? Does the hub self center as the spoke tension is equally taken up ? If an offset is reguired then how much, to which side?, and I’d assume the shorter side would need the spokes tighter first to pull the hub toward that side.

Thanks for the help. Go easy on me for wimping out on not taking on the truing. :P

1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.

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14 Dec 2020 20:42 #840068 by DOHC
Replied by DOHC on topic 1976 Kz 900 A4

Mikaw wrote: Anyway I’m assuming if you measured from outside face of the rim to the Center Line of the hub one measurement would be 3/32” longer. Is this anything that needs to be addressed with my rear rim? Does the hub self center as the spoke tension is equally taken up ? If an offset is required then how much, to which side?


I believe bicycle rear wheels are typically offset to allow room for the gear set. But it doesn't look like you need to worry about it. If any offset was required, I believe it would be mentioned in the manual. I looked in the kz900, kz1000, and kz650 manual at the rim replacement section, and it doesn't say anything about offset at all. Just runout specs and torque specs.

Also, I'm guessing that if an offset was required, the spokes would be cut to different lengths for each side. Generally you want the spoke to thread most of way into the nipple, but not poke out. With all the spokes equal length, you're going to end up with very little offset if the nipples are all in about the same place. That may be why the FSM doesn't even mention the offset at all.

'78 Z1-R in blue , '78 Z1-R in black, '78 Z1-R in pieces
My dad's '74 Z1
'00 ZRX1100

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14 Dec 2020 21:58 #840073 by ayeckley
Replied by ayeckley on topic 1976 Kz 900 A4
Sorry to interrupt the thought flow, but do you recall if you used the satin or gloss VHT caliper paint? I’m guessing satin.

Great thread by the way - I really enjoy following the discussion.

1976 KZ900A4
1976 KZ900A4
1978 KZ1000A2
1983 ZX750 A1 aka GPz 750
1983 ZX750 A1
1973 CL350K4
1984 ZX1100 A2 aka GPz1100
1969 CT90
2006 Burgman 400

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15 Dec 2020 00:14 - 15 Dec 2020 00:36 #840074 by DoctoRot
Replied by DoctoRot on topic 1976 Kz 900 A4
Your lace pattern looks correct. the outsides will go opposite directions - ditto for the inners.

You don't need the fancy torque wrench to true a wheel. Just tap the spoke. if it rings its good, if it thumps it needs to be tighter. You also don't need a fancy truing stand either although it does make it a bit easier. a couple of 2x4s to hold the axle or even just putting the wheel in the swing-arm will work.

Truing a wheel is not as hard as you might think. loads of videos online how to do it. The only thing you gotta watch out for is if you start to get tight on the spokes if you have a cheap spoke wrench you can round the nipple over if it doesn't fit the nipple tightly. I personally love building wheels, go slow and it will be no problem.

If you still want to have someone else true it check with MX shops. replacing spokes is a regular occurrence for them.
Last edit: 15 Dec 2020 00:36 by DoctoRot.

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15 Dec 2020 05:45 #840076 by Mikaw
Replied by Mikaw on topic 1976 Kz 900 A4

DOHC wrote:

Mikaw wrote: Anyway I’m assuming if you measured from outside face of the rim to the Center Line of the hub one measurement would be 3/32” longer. Is this anything that needs to be addressed with my rear rim? Does the hub self center as the spoke tension is equally taken up ? If an offset is required then how much, to which side?


I believe bicycle rear wheels are typically offset to allow room for the gear set. But it doesn't look like you need to worry about it. If any offset was required, I believe it would be mentioned in the manual. I looked in the kz900, kz1000, and kz650 manual at the rim replacement section, and it doesn't say anything about offset at all. Just runout specs and torque specs.

Also, I'm guessing that if an offset was required, the spokes would be cut to different lengths for each side. Generally you want the spoke to thread most of way into the nipple, but not poke out. With all the spokes equal length, you're going to end up with very little offset if the nipples are all in about the same place. That may be why the FSM doesn't even mention the offset at all.


Thank you, I did look through the FSM’s I have and didn’t see anything either, that’s why I asked. Having different length spokes makes sense it would cause the hub to offset. All mine were equal length but were different bend angle for inner and outer.

1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.

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15 Dec 2020 05:57 #840080 by Mikaw
Replied by Mikaw on topic 1976 Kz 900 A4

DoctoRot wrote: Your lace pattern looks correct. the outsides will go opposite directions - ditto for the inners.

You don't need the fancy torque wrench to true a wheel. Just tap the spoke. if it rings its good, if it thumps it needs to be tighter. You also don't need a fancy truing stand either although it does make it a bit easier. a couple of 2x4s to hold the axle or even just putting the wheel in the swing-arm will work.

Truing a wheel is not as hard as you might think. loads of videos online how to do it. The only thing you gotta watch out for is if you start to get tight on the spokes if you have a cheap spoke wrench you can round the nipple over if it doesn't fit the nipple tightly. I personally love building wheels, go slow and it will be no problem.

If you still want to have someone else true it check with MX shops. replacing spokes is a regular occurrence for them.


Thanks for the tips. When this build is done I’m sure I will have enough parts left to throw together a bike on the 1977 Kz900 frame. I have front and rear hubs and rims that will need laced and trued. I will give it a go next time around.


1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.
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15 Dec 2020 06:02 #840082 by Mikaw
Replied by Mikaw on topic 1976 Kz 900 A4

ayeckley wrote: Sorry to interrupt the thought flow, but do you recall if you used the satin or gloss VHT caliper paint? I’m guessing satin.

Great thread by the way - I really enjoy following the discussion.


No problem. We all do it. When we read a post that reminds us of something it’s natural. It was Satin.


1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.
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15 Dec 2020 07:34 #840095 by Rick H.
Replied by Rick H. on topic 1976 Kz 900 A4
Years ago when I and my group of friends were Sportster nuts we used to lace and true our rear wheels for 16" rims from the stock 18" rims. I had a truing stand that I bought and at the time it didn't seem like a big deal. We used the "pointers" on the truing stand and all seemed well, but was it really? Who knows? Today I would use a dial indicator on the rim with a wheel attachment to get the rim as close to true as I could. Some may have developed the ability to check spoke tightness by listening to the "ping" the spoke makes when struck by something but my hearing is nowhere good enough for that anymore. IMHO a spoke torque wrench is a requirement when lacing up a wheel for the first time, but around my area few shops sell them, nor do they want to take on outside wheel lacing work. They will do their own in-house work, but no walk-ins. So that left me with few options but fortunately I found a small vintage motorcycle repair shop in Belgium, WI that will do this type of work and he did my rear wheel after I trashed a rear tire by running over a large piece of metal. I tend to be a bit OCD in many respects and truing wheels is one of them. Screw it up and potentially you leave the door open for problems that may not surface until you are rolling down the road at speed. Tires and wheels are what keeps you off the pavement and I want them in the best condition they can be, not repaired by an amateur such as myself. The largest Harley dealer in my area has had a dealership race team for many years. They send their spoked wheels out for lacing and truing. On their race bikes they only want the best job possible on their wheels. I think Mikaw made the right decision. My idea of a good time isn't trying out my safety gear because I wanted to save money and experiment.

Rick H.

Rick H.

1977 Kawasaki KZ-1000A1

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17 Dec 2020 17:31 - 17 Dec 2020 17:32 #840251 by Mikaw
Replied by Mikaw on topic 1976 Kz 900 A4
I was suprised to get a call today to come pick up the rear rim. Truns out I got an even better deal they only charged me $45.00 and took less than 36 hours. On the way home I dropped the rim off at the Kawasaki dealership to have the rear tire mounted and balanced.

1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.
Last edit: 17 Dec 2020 17:32 by Mikaw. Reason: Spelling

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24 Dec 2020 09:43 #840508 by Mikaw
Replied by Mikaw on topic 1976 Kz 900 A4
Small progress yesterday. I got the front wheel partially assembled and the forks done minus the springs, top cap and fork oil. I’m posting more as a heads up to not blindly trust your torque wrench. It’s been in the low30’s here over night so a few days ago I brought everything in including the torque wrench. Wanted things to be warm when assembling. The last time I used my torque wrench it worked as normal, it was stored at its lowest setting in a case. But for my better judgment I could have snapped a rotor to hub bolt. I kept pulling waiting on the click which didn’t come and felt like I was way over torque. Turns out I was right and something had happened to the torque wrench during storage. It seems common here that people post “it snapped before the torque wrench clicked”. Never trust a these things, use good judgment and feel. If it seems over tight and no click it probably is. Mine is Craftsman brand so now I have to find a way to have it calibrated or replaced.


1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.
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24 Dec 2020 09:56 #840511 by Skidmark
Replied by Skidmark on topic 1976 Kz 900 A4
I had to replace my Craftsman torque wrench (the smaller in/lb one) due to it not reading or clicking at the set amount. Mine had rolled off the table and hit the floor, though. Before using my new replacement, I put an old bolt in the vise and checked if it clicked. It seemed to be working good. Do a search online for metrology companies to find a calibration house. The Craftsman brand (and most others) say their torque wrenches are accurate to +/- 2 in/lb, or ft/lb on their larger ones. A calibration company would get it closer than that. Since I was in charge of a Quality Assurance department in a machine shop, I know of and have used several calibration companies in So. Ca. You shouldn't have any trouble finding some i your neck of the woods.

Retired gearhead
'81 KZ-750 E2
'87 Suzuki Savage 650 Street Tracker (lost in the shop fire)
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