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1976 Kz 900 A4
- hardrockminer
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Skidmark wrote: Beautiful bike!
Thank you! One of two. Here is the other one. In the photo it has a close ratio transmission, hence no kicker. This fall I changed the tranny to a standard and added a kicker, but haven't had a chance to ride the bike yet. I have a multi-vehicle classic plate that allows me to run any of my three vintage bikes when I wish. I just have to change the plate to the one I want to ride.
Apologies to Mikaw for purloining his thread.
I have several restored bikes along with a 2006 Goldwing with a sidecar. My wife has a 2019 Suzuki DR 650 for on and off road.
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- Mikaw
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So I chickened out. I found a custom shop about 40 minutes away that will true the rim for $70. A spoke torque wrench is more. But I did get a tidbit of info from a grumpy HD snob. He was initially interested in the job and ranted about how experienced he was and mentioned that Some HD front hubs have a 3/32 offset in the rim. When I mentioned what the rim was for he refused to work on it. Anyway I’m assuming if you measured from outside face of the rim to the Center Line of the hub one measurement would be 3/32” longer. Is this anything that needs to be addressed with my rear rim? Does the hub self center as the spoke tension is equally taken up ? If an offset is reguired then how much, to which side?, and I’d assume the shorter side would need the spokes tighter first to pull the hub toward that side.
Thanks for the help. Go easy on me for wimping out on not taking on the truing.
1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.
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- DOHC
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- Those Doe-Hawks really go!
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Mikaw wrote: Anyway I’m assuming if you measured from outside face of the rim to the Center Line of the hub one measurement would be 3/32” longer. Is this anything that needs to be addressed with my rear rim? Does the hub self center as the spoke tension is equally taken up ? If an offset is required then how much, to which side?
I believe bicycle rear wheels are typically offset to allow room for the gear set. But it doesn't look like you need to worry about it. If any offset was required, I believe it would be mentioned in the manual. I looked in the kz900, kz1000, and kz650 manual at the rim replacement section, and it doesn't say anything about offset at all. Just runout specs and torque specs.
Also, I'm guessing that if an offset was required, the spokes would be cut to different lengths for each side. Generally you want the spoke to thread most of way into the nipple, but not poke out. With all the spokes equal length, you're going to end up with very little offset if the nipples are all in about the same place. That may be why the FSM doesn't even mention the offset at all.
'78 Z1-R in blue , '78 Z1-R in black, '78 Z1-R in pieces
My dad's '74 Z1
'00 ZRX1100
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- ayeckley
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Great thread by the way - I really enjoy following the discussion.
1976 KZ900A4
1976 KZ900A4
1978 KZ1000A2
1983 ZX750 A1 aka GPz 750
1983 ZX750 A1
1973 CL350K4
1984 ZX1100 A2 aka GPz1100
1969 CT90
2006 Burgman 400
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- DoctoRot
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- Oh, the usual... I bowl, I drive around...
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You don't need the fancy torque wrench to true a wheel. Just tap the spoke. if it rings its good, if it thumps it needs to be tighter. You also don't need a fancy truing stand either although it does make it a bit easier. a couple of 2x4s to hold the axle or even just putting the wheel in the swing-arm will work.
Truing a wheel is not as hard as you might think. loads of videos online how to do it. The only thing you gotta watch out for is if you start to get tight on the spokes if you have a cheap spoke wrench you can round the nipple over if it doesn't fit the nipple tightly. I personally love building wheels, go slow and it will be no problem.
If you still want to have someone else true it check with MX shops. replacing spokes is a regular occurrence for them.
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- Mikaw
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DOHC wrote:
Mikaw wrote: Anyway I’m assuming if you measured from outside face of the rim to the Center Line of the hub one measurement would be 3/32” longer. Is this anything that needs to be addressed with my rear rim? Does the hub self center as the spoke tension is equally taken up ? If an offset is required then how much, to which side?
I believe bicycle rear wheels are typically offset to allow room for the gear set. But it doesn't look like you need to worry about it. If any offset was required, I believe it would be mentioned in the manual. I looked in the kz900, kz1000, and kz650 manual at the rim replacement section, and it doesn't say anything about offset at all. Just runout specs and torque specs.
Also, I'm guessing that if an offset was required, the spokes would be cut to different lengths for each side. Generally you want the spoke to thread most of way into the nipple, but not poke out. With all the spokes equal length, you're going to end up with very little offset if the nipples are all in about the same place. That may be why the FSM doesn't even mention the offset at all.
Thank you, I did look through the FSM’s I have and didn’t see anything either, that’s why I asked. Having different length spokes makes sense it would cause the hub to offset. All mine were equal length but were different bend angle for inner and outer.
1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.
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- Mikaw
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DoctoRot wrote: Your lace pattern looks correct. the outsides will go opposite directions - ditto for the inners.
You don't need the fancy torque wrench to true a wheel. Just tap the spoke. if it rings its good, if it thumps it needs to be tighter. You also don't need a fancy truing stand either although it does make it a bit easier. a couple of 2x4s to hold the axle or even just putting the wheel in the swing-arm will work.
Truing a wheel is not as hard as you might think. loads of videos online how to do it. The only thing you gotta watch out for is if you start to get tight on the spokes if you have a cheap spoke wrench you can round the nipple over if it doesn't fit the nipple tightly. I personally love building wheels, go slow and it will be no problem.
If you still want to have someone else true it check with MX shops. replacing spokes is a regular occurrence for them.
Thanks for the tips. When this build is done I’m sure I will have enough parts left to throw together a bike on the 1977 Kz900 frame. I have front and rear hubs and rims that will need laced and trued. I will give it a go next time around.
1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.
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- Mikaw
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ayeckley wrote: Sorry to interrupt the thought flow, but do you recall if you used the satin or gloss VHT caliper paint? I’m guessing satin.
Great thread by the way - I really enjoy following the discussion.
No problem. We all do it. When we read a post that reminds us of something it’s natural. It was Satin.
1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.
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- Rick H.
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Rick H.
Rick H.
1977 Kawasaki KZ-1000A1
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- Mikaw
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1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.
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- Mikaw
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1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.
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- Skidmark
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Retired gearhead
'81 KZ-750 E2
'87 Suzuki Savage 650 Street Tracker (lost in the shop fire)
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