KZ1000P conversion.

Those look to be the wrong wires anyway Jimbo. That bike should have solid core wires with NGK resistor plug caps and non-resistor plugs. (5K ohm caps) The solid core wires poke onto a nail looking pin in the coils and the NGK plug caps have screw onto the solid core wires.

The starter clutch is a common problem, and is intensified on bikes with high miles and / or starting problems. Another common problem is that the 3 bolts holding the clutch to the rotor work loose, and rattle producing a curious noise on the left side. The rotor was a royal PITA to get off of mine, and I cringe at pounding on that pressed together crank, but I had to, give it a good smack to get that thing off.

I changed mine (83 KZ1100), the thread is the same for the rotor as the harmonic balancer puller I bought from harbor freight. All of my usual thread checkers were to small to be able to tell you the thread size for it. I cringe thinking about it, but I used a small impact on the lowest setting to get the rotor off. Use a torque wrench to put it back on. It's been working fine since. I used 1/4 nylon rope on cyl. 1 to lock down the engine, it probably took like 5 ft. at most.

Yep, they are cheapo replacement wires to replace the cracked originals.
That is exactly the issue with the starter clutch. I'm gonna have to figure out what parts I need for that.

Cheapo headlight and chopped fenders.

All it needs is a tail piece and maybe a couple fenders.
Steve

Jimbo302 wrote: Yep, they are cheapo replacement wires to replace the cracked originals.
That is exactly the issue with the starter clutch. I'm gonna have to figure out what parts I need for that.

They have roller / spring kits for the starter, except the ramps and the race tend to wear too.

The ignition really needs to have the proper secondary resistances. Electricity is lazy and tends to take the path of least resistance. Since this is a waste spark system, 2 cylinders are affected by ignition electrical misfires. If the ignition coil pulse finds less resistance by arcing internally, than it does to the plugs, it will arc a path inside the coil, and not look back. At this point the coil is ruined from using the wrong ignition parts. You probably found the cause of your high rev misfire right here.

THEN< all of the "advice" to put on that modestly priced aftermarket system, when all that was initially needed was the proper replacement parts.

What came first? The wire arcing open to the dip tube, then the coil? (from my truck)

SWest wrote: All it needs is a tail piece and maybe a couple fenders.
Steve

You mean the "duck bill"?

YUP

I had ordered a KZ900 tail/seat cowl "duckbill" off eBay, but at this point it looks as though it may be lost in shipping.

I have this starter clutch kit on order. Hopefully it will take care of the issue.

Meanwhile im thinking about doing some tuning on the carbs. It still has some reamed out 127.5 main jets in it from when I first put it together with the open pipes.

The bike has has great low end and pulls pretty well in high rpms.
It does it all relatively quick as it has a 41 tooth rear sprocket.

However, there is a stumble when going full throttle in the mid range and it has a bit of a two stroke powerband feel. I'm going to work to smooth that out.

I've got all my mix screws about 3 turns out, so relatively rich. The exhaust doesn't smell rich and there is no surging, lag or popping. My pipe is turning nice and golden.
I'm thinking I still might be too rich for CV carbs.

Any recommendations on jet sizes to try or other corrections ?

Here is a really good jetting procedure----

www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tuning_proc...igh_rpm_engines.html