1979 KZ1000 LTD B3 Help wanted - Bike will not start

It appears that someone drove the shxt out of that bike. Nothing that can't be repaired though.

Be aware that the pusher plate in the center of the clutch has a ball in behind it. Don't lose the ball.

You have two different plates in the clutch. One is all steel. the second is steel with fibre coating. Both have specs but it's the fibre ones that may be worn down to the replacement point.

Were you able to get any photos of the gears when you pulled the oil pump?

I would remove the clutch basket and inspect the needle bearing,(all bearings).
You need a clutch hub holder to loosen the nut!!!

Scirocco wrote: I would remove the clutch basket and inspect the needle bearing,(all bearings).
You need a clutch hub holder to loosen the nut!!!

Yep I bought a EBC one that fits for my bike. I need to check the rest of it out.

I am opening a motorcycle shop after this :laugh:

650ed wrote: I don't understand how the clutch springs could rust unless water got into the engine. When you had the oil pan off did you check to see if the crankshaft or other metal parts were rusted? Ed

No visible rust that I could see on the crankshaft. It looked good. I know that bike sat in the same spot for a while. I am under the impression this is moisture that crept in from the breather or something. The bottom of the housing is pretty clean.

hardrockminer wrote: It appears that someone drove the shxt out of that bike. Nothing that can't be repaired though.

Be aware that the pusher plate in the center of the clutch has a ball in behind it. Don't lose the ball.

You have two different plates in the clutch. One is all steel. the second is steel with fibre coating. Both have specs but it's the fibre ones that may be worn down to the replacement point.



Were you able to get any photos of the gears when you pulled the oil pump?

Did not take any pictures of the gears, I could not get my camera to focus but from what I saw everything looked ok and pretty clean but I have never run the bike so I don't know about the transmission. I though the clutch felt pretty good and it had 2 broken springs so I don't know.

Yep I know about the ball bearing, its in there. I removed the pusher plate. It moves smoothly in its place and the bearing is where it should.

I have put the metal plates to soak in oil for the night and will clean them up tomorrow morning. I will check out the fiber ones too at the same time. I saw that I have different choices for springs. I think I will stick with replacements OEM types. If I need fiber plates too I will order at the same time.

I am pulling the jugs tomorrow if I have time and will get in touch with my Kawi guy to see if he can hone them and change the rings on the pistons. I checked out how to videos on honing cylinders and the tools to do it are not too expensive but I don't want to ruin the engine.

OEM clutch parts are an excellent choice. I would even say they are the best choice unless you are building a full on race bike.

Honing isn't difficult but I get a machine shop to do it because I don't have the tools.

You will have to pull the pistons to have the rings changed. Be sure to number them so they can go back where they came.

Ask your Kawi guy to check the cylinder tolerances. If they are too far gone you may need to go up one bore size. Not a big issue but you will need new pistons if the bores are too far gone.

OK so I started this morning by cleaning up the metal clutch plates. They cleaned up nicely and are not warped. Measured the friction plates and all within standards between 3.79 and 3.85. So I am thinking I will clean them up and keep them for now. So special tool and springs ordered for the clutch.

Removed the jugs. I know it says to wrap the bottom of the pistons so no debris falls into the case but I figured I would only be pushing more debris inside by doing this so I was as careful as I could and lifted everything slowly.

Its dirty. All of the piston rings look OK and move freely but I can feel carbon particles everywhere and #4 (see last closeup pic) has the top ring seized on one side.

Looking at the crank, there is some visible rust.

I do not see how I will be able to remove all of the old gasket material and clean everything without some crap falling into the case.

What do you guys usually do ?

I stuff rags in the case around the rods before I take off the pistons. That way the circlips won't fall into the case and keep out debris. Chances are the rust on the crank is condensation and not important. I'd flush it out with diesel after cleaning.
My only concern is the rusty and broken clutch springs. More pics.
Steve

Clean rags in the holes in the case.

Good to hear the clutch plates are OK.

:lol:

BTW the friction plates are made of aluminum not steel. I got new ones from Z1partsinc.net last year. They work great.
Steve
z1parts.net/z1-900-kz650-kz750-kz900-kz1000-clutch-plates/
You could also get these instead.
www.z1enterprises.com/ape-hd-clutch-pk-z1-kz900-1000.html