1979 KZ1000 LTD B3 Help wanted - Bike will not start

I love all those finned covers you have on your bike. Really cool.

Always wanted them since I was a kid. Got them from Z1E. I've seen used ones for 1/2 the price but I had the money at the time. If I go 1105 I might sell this set if they're still good.
Steve
www.z1enterprises.com/catalogsearch/resu...chrome+engine+covers

BTW one of our members is selling a block/piston setup if he still has it. You might ask him about it.
Steve
kzrider.com/kunena/2-engine/608593-kz100...0mm-piston-pin-holes

I bought my B4 from a guy in Rocky Mtn House, Alberta for $750 CAD. It took me over a year to get it running right and probably $4k to $5k. Changed the head that the PO had screwed up most of the M6 bolt holes. Changed carbs and put 26 mm on it. Rebuilt the gauges, replaced a lot of parts including seat, tank, sidecovers, chain, sprockets, etc. But now it runs more or less OK...still have some barking at low revs. It was a great learning experience.

Where in Canada are you located? I'm near Kamloops in BC.

hardrockminer wrote: I bought my B4 from a guy in Rocky Mtn House, Alberta for $750 CAD. It took me over a year to get it running right and probably $4k to $5k. Changed the head that the PO had screwed up most of the M6 bolt holes. Changed carbs and put 26 mm on it. Rebuilt the gauges, replaced a lot of parts including seat, tank, sidecovers, chain, sprockets, etc. But now it runs more or less OK...still have some barking at low revs. It was a great learning experience.

Where in Canada are you located? I'm near Kamloops in BC.

I am just a bit West of Montreal, Quebec.

OK the fun continues :sick:

I drained the oil and removed the oil filter cap.

Surprise ! No oil filter. Who does that ? Good thing I could not start the bike.

Removed the oil pan. Very dirty gooey mud at the bottom, I can feel sandlike particles at the bottom, no metal pieces. This is going to be a B!@#$% to clean up. Heading out to Canadian Tire for some cleaning supplies, oil and other stuff.

I will remove the oil pump to clean it up and inspect it.

Then I will clean all of that up.

I have the oil pan gaskets and O-rings and a new K&N oil filter when its going to be time to put it back up.

Freaking out.

Luc

I had crossover pipes like that. "Tuned exhaust" I liked the duel exhaust sound more than the V/H 4-1 I have now.
You'll need the spring that goes under the filter. I used diesel to flush my engine when I wanted to get as much out as I could. I put in a gallon then opened the drain plug. Most of the crap is in the pan but I wanted to soak everything else too.
BTW, this is another reason PO's suck.
Steve

No oil filter eh?? It's like what Forrest Gump's mother said...you never know what you're going to get.

When you take off the oil pump you may have trouble cleaning the strainer. I had trouble cleaning one with a lot of small rubber bits in it so I just bought another one. They can still be found in stock or on ebay.

Happy happy pan now.

That was the easy part. Scraping off the old gasket and getting it nice and clean under the bike isn't going to be that easy.

Like I read a few times on this board, never assume anything about a pre-owned bike.

That looks a lot better! When I install a pan gasket I grease it on both sides lightly. It helps hold it in place when you're doing it the hard way. But before you put the pan back on....maybe take some photos of the gears and forks if you can. If they look OK then maybe you don't need to split the cases. Can you turn the crank? If so try to listen for any noise in the cases.

Based on the gunk in the pan you probably should take the clutch plates out and clean everything up. Check the thickness of the fibre plates to ensure they meet the spec in the book.

I took the oil pump out and cleaned it up. No issues that I could see. Finished cleaning the old gasket material and re-installed everything, new gasket, O-Rings, Filter and so the bottom part is nice and clean. The crank turns freely and I could not hear any suspect noises. The gears and forks seemed to look ok too.

I then opened up the clutch cover, the gasket is still in place and looked good but seems like the cover had som old gasket material still stuck on to it so I cleaned that up.

Removed the bolts / washers and springs that hold the plate. 2 springs are broken. The springs are rusty.

Removed the plates, the first 2 where stuck together. The others are rusty. That's as far as I am going today, will read some more about the clutch plates and what to do. I will need to order new springs so I am thinking about ordering new plates too but I will go deeper into the clutch as it is really rusty in general and I will need to clean all of that up. The bottom of the clutch housing is free of debris.

I don't understand how the clutch springs could rust unless water got into the engine. When you had the oil pan off did you check to see if the crankshaft or other metal parts were rusted? Ed