'82 KZ1000 Project

Stoon wrote: Hey guys I am new to this forum as i just recently bought a project bike. It is a 1982 KZ1000 with approx.33000 on it. The guy I bought it from had not owned it long and never had it running but the previous owner had put some serious time into the bike. All he had told me is that when he was driving down the highway a puff of black smoke came out and bike came to a stop and it has been parked in his garage since. I had pulled the tank and pet-cock off because no fuel was coming out. I am picking up a new one tomorrow but would like a few hints as to where I should begin to get the bike started or what is wrong. I will try to up-load some pics in the next day or so. I realize without the bike running makes problem solving hard but any help would be appreciated.

Youtube is a good source for many mechanical questions and procedures. These early videos are good for novices and pertain to many procedures of later similar engines as well. This vid is a good place to start... ...as well as the troubleshooting pages of a related manual. Good luck. ....................................Mike

Vroom-vroom!!!

Yes all the plugs seem to have spark. As I try to turn it over the fuel doesnt look like its moving and then the battery dies and I need to wait till it charges again. Not sure how ethical it is but I sprayed some fuel down the 1st &4th plug holes to try and kick-start the system and It would cough up a few puffs but thats it. Stumped for now. I will watch these videos this evening.

Thanks again

Assuming you have also checked the ignition timing with a meter to verify it's setting? (condition of the points...gap?...or electronic ignition?...correct spark plugs for the model and spark plugs properly gapped?) Don't know if there is a public library near you but most all public libraries have mechanical manuals in their reference section, including a selection of motorcycle manuals can often be found and helpful for people that don't have one. I have gotten needed info this way in the past when in a pinch and friends have too. Just a thought. Best of luck Pal. ...........................Mike

Vroom-vroom!!!

So thanks for all the help. This afternoon I was able to take the valve cover off and get some measurements off the valve clearances. The valve cover was very very clean and no visible signs of wear on the lobes or camshafts.
Cylinder #1 exhaust .004Fits --- .005 No fit Intake .003 Fits

---

.004 No fit
Cylinder #2 exhaust .003 Fits --- .004No fit Intake .0025 Fits --- .003 No fit
Cylinder #3 exhaust .006 Fits --- .007 No fit Intake .004 Fits---- .005 No fit
Cylinder #4 exhaust .0025 Fits --- .003 No fit Intake .003 Fits

---

.004 No

A recap...I bought the bike and the previous owner said he figured it needed some top end work but wasnt very descriptive as what it needed. Lots of new parts on the bike and in great shape but I havent been able to get it started what so ever. I dont know much about these bikes but am loving every minute of it. Based on the clearances above is cylinder #3 exhaust enough to prevent the bike from running?
can someone please help me as to what is next? how many shims I should be replacing? How do I figure out if the valves themselves or seals need replacing?
Thanks in advance.
Mark

I don't understand what that means.
#1 intake____ exhaust____
#2 and so on.
Steve

Stoon wrote: So thanks for all the help. This afternoon I was able to take the valve cover off and get some measurements off the valve clearances. The valve cover was very very clean and no visible signs of wear on the lobes or camshafts.
Cylinder #1 exhaust .004Fits --- .005 No fit Intake .003 Fits

---

.004 No fit
Cylinder #2 exhaust .003 Fits --- .004No fit Intake .0025 Fits --- .003 No fit
Cylinder #3 exhaust .006 Fits --- .007 No fit Intake .004 Fits---- .005 No fit
Cylinder #4 exhaust .0025 Fits --- .003 No fit Intake .003 Fits

---

.004 No

A recap...I bought the bike and the previous owner said he figured it needed some top end work but wasnt very descriptive as what it needed. Lots of new parts on the bike and in great shape but I havent been able to get it started what so ever. I dont know much about these bikes but am loving every minute of it. Based on the clearances above is cylinder #3 exhaust enough to prevent the bike from running?
can someone please help me as to what is next? how many shims I should be replacing? How do I figure out if the valves themselves or seals need replacing?
Thanks in advance.
Mark

Anywhere from .002 -.004 is good. #3 exhaust a bit overgap? Do you have a shim chart? ...........................................Mike

Vroom-vroom!

No I dont have a shim chart.
I was just showing what the gaps are by the cylinder. #1 Ex=.004 Intake=.003
If I change the shim on #3 what else should I do and check before bolting everything together? Again, is there a way I can check all the valve seals? Would they affect the bike from starting or not?

Thanks again

Forgive me for dropping in on this thread but I've very recently become interested in '82 1000 engines

Fuel, Fire, Compression. The three things needed to run an engine.

You confirmed you have spark at all your plugs; right? - Color of spark is bright? - Fire.
Are your HT wires routed correctly?
If they are not, then of course you are getting "fire" but at the wrong cylinder when needed.
If your timing is out, I'd still expect the machine to randomly sputter and try unless it's just WTFO.

Compression can only be assumed but since your valve gap readings are all within Steve's listed range... Compression should be there.
Try covering your hand over a carb while rolling on the starter. Do you feel suction on your hand? That suction helps indicate if that cylinder can develop compression. If your hand sucks in and then blows out. One or more valves is sticking open. No compression.

So, likely not getting fuel as you have asked - the bubble not moving in the fuel line -

Common issue I've heard here - vacuum in the tank. Tank not vented so fuel cannot be drawn from it.
Pop the tank filler for a second.
Couldn't this be simply dirty carb bowls, stuck float valves or clogged carbs?
What about leaking manifold boots?

OK. Stepping way out on a limb here... Desperate times call for desperate measures.
Often I used to do this when trying to assess an engine in a scrap yard.
I'm not saying it's wise or even safe but it did one thing - allowed an engine to run if all else was checked out.
Get a small atomizer bottle (small helps fit into tighter spaces with less fuel needed).
Adjust the atomizer bottle nozzle for fine spray pattern, not a stream.
Spritz it into each carb once.
Try to start the engine.
The atomizer bottle essentially does what the carb is supposed to and gets fuel into the intake.

It's helpful if you have a helper that can roll on the starter while you spritz the fuel into the carbs.
WARNING - i repeat - WARNING:
Keep your hands and bottle free of the carbs intake during first tests in case it backfires!
Shoot the fuel from the side away from direct line.
Do NOT smoke or have any other flame in the area, you are atomizing a highly flammable liquid

This said. I have actually gotten cars to drive out of a junk yards or at least into a position that could be towed from, by using this method.
Scary? Yep. Dicey as hell? Yep. Works in a pinch? Yep.

wrenchmonkey wrote: Forgive me for dropping in on this thread but I've very recently become interested in '82 1000 engines

Fuel, Fire, Compression. The three things needed to run an engine.

You confirmed you have spark at all your plugs; right? - Color of spark is bright? - Fire.
Are your HT wires routed correctly?
If they are not, then of course you are getting "fire" but at the wrong cylinder when needed.
If your timing is out, I'd still expect the machine to randomly sputter and try unless it's just WTFO.

Compression can only be assumed but since your valve gap readings are all within Steve's listed range... Compression should be there.
Try covering your hand over a carb while rolling on the starter. Do you feel suction on your hand? That suction helps indicate if that cylinder can develop compression. If your hand sucks in and then blows out. One or more valves is sticking open. No compression.

So, likely not getting fuel as you have asked - the bubble not moving in the fuel line -

Common issue I've heard here - vacuum in the tank. Tank not vented so fuel cannot be drawn from it.
Pop the tank filler for a second.
Couldn't this be simply dirty carb bowls, stuck float valves or clogged carbs?
What about leaking manifold boots?

OK. Stepping way out on a limb here... Desperate times call for desperate measures.
Often I used to do this when trying to assess an engine in a scrap yard.
I'm not saying it's wise or even safe but it did one thing - allowed an engine to run if all else was checked out.
Get a small atomizer bottle (small helps fit into tighter spaces with less fuel needed).
Adjust the atomizer bottle nozzle for fine spray pattern, not a stream.
Spritz it into each carb once.
Try to start the engine.
The atomizer bottle essentially does what the carb is supposed to and gets fuel into the intake.

It's helpful if you have a helper that can roll on the starter while you spritz the fuel into the carbs.
WARNING - i repeat - WARNING:
Keep your hands and bottle free of the carbs intake during first tests in case it backfires!
Shoot the fuel from the side away from direct line.
Do NOT smoke or have any other flame in the area, you are atomizing a highly flammable liquid

This said. I have actually gotten cars to drive out of a junk yards or at least into a position that could be towed from, by using this method.
Scary? Yep. Dicey as hell? Yep. Works in a pinch? Yep.

They call that ether. A can is cheap and should be in every shop for just that purpose, and also for testing manifold boot seals for air leaks. Also if engine fires for even a few seconds, check for a cold exhaust pipe leaving the head, even if you have spark at all the plugs. ...................................Mike

Vroom-vroom!

Rockranch wrote: They call that ether. A can is cheap and should be in every shop for just that purpose, and also for testing manifold boot seals for air leaks. Also if engine fires for even a few seconds, check for a cold exhaust pipe leaving the head, even if you have spark at all the plugs. ...................................Mike

Vroom-vroom!

i would rather use monkeys method than ether.

or a gas rag held over the air cleaner opening.

ether has a way of settling down behind the rings in the lands and then when the flame hits it can break the rings/ lands or both.

i won't even keep ether around or use it on any of my own stuff.

wd40 works for checking the seal on the boots.

leon

lmao whatever

Rockranch wrote: lmao whatever

lmao if you like but i've seen it happen.
i've rebuilt thousands of industrial engines,and seen the company i work for have to pay a $4500.00 teardown and rebuild bill because the customer (admittedly)used ether for first start up.
and seen the busted pistons myself.


so when that happens to you make sure and post it up so i in turn can lmao at your misfortune,sir.

leon