1981 KZ550A2 Update

Because it didn't do it at all before the rebuild, I wouldn't expect it to be a normal wear issue.
I know we already covered this before the build, and I apologize in advance for sounding like a broken record, but how certain are you about the oil restrictor installations? That is the only thing that has really ever popped up as an oil-pressure related item on the KZ550's that I can recall.

A temporary oil pressure gauge would be a piece of mind, if we knew what the pressure should be in the first place.

Hi Lou,

Yep I was double on spot with the orifices , restrictions and o rings on the block and head. I think the issue has been resolved with new oil and filter. Time will tell. After two runs, no oil light anymore. When it warms up a bit I am gonna check valve clearances again and will get a look at valve oiling. I am also gonna check the screen on the oil pump. At 3600 miles the inside of this motor was pristine. I am pretty sure I mucked it up with gasket prep on the pan that contaminated the oil and perhaps extra assembly lube and grease too that thinned the oil. Either way it is cold starting and runs well, no oil light the last 50-100 miles. If I get the light back I will test with a real gauge just to rule out component failure on the pressure switch. It was kinda cruddy. R

Okay, so I got out today for about 80 miles or so. After filter and oil the oil light is no longer flickering or indicating low oil pressure. Came back and popped on the manometer. They were pretty close to nuts on, but number four was off a bit si I adjusted that one to even pressure with the three others. Looking good. Need to wash it.

looks great
Steve

It has it's patina for sure, but she is sound and fit for riding anywhere now. I will say too that I am not sure how much new swing arms and front ends help, but it handles like a dream by me in stock form. Nimble, solid and enough grunt 0-80 to cause trouble. Will definitely wheelie!!! I like middleweight bikes. My 800 Vulcans (2, 100k miles) was great and snappier - 105 at top of third and the big Vulcan is a completely different animal Oddly that 800 had many identical KZ parts on it. Sharing brakes, chain drive and other tidbits. Gotta give Kaw some credit for wringing possible dollar out of thier parts and pieces. :lol: R

Bossie handles great too but over 100 she starts to feel light and I can sense a wobble coming on. I've left enough skid marks in my underwear in the time I've owned her to tell when it's going to happen. That's why the longer arm. :whistle:
Steve

More time riding today and I have to say I am digging the 550. I hit a round about south exit and rolled out third from 25 to a pinned speedo at redline. What a blast. If ya flogg it she'll wheelie pretty damn good, guessing the short wheelbase and my 200lbs helps that too. Even with this smaller motor, I love KZ trannys, they never lug or miss shifts,no matter what gear u are in or which one ya want to get to. I will say the 550 is one cold blooded machine. It hit the 60s here today and it still takes a good five minutes before it can run smoothly. After warm up, this machine is not missing a beat and seems to be getting smoother with running. R

Okay, so I go to take off on a ride and I had placed a container under the carb drain hoses last night. There was exactly 2oz of gas in the container from the number 2 carb drain hose. The float valve and seats are clean, I used the old washers. It did not leak into the case and seems that it is exactly the amount of #2 carb bowl. The drain screws on the carbs were old and worn, the orings were replaced with non-oem rings, and I left a few old ones. me thinks the #2 drain screw orings have gone bad. I would think if it was the float valve it would leak the whole tankful? What says ye? Second issue, I am still getting clutch slippage in 3rd and beyond at the highest RPM range 7500+. When apart the clutch plates were in spec and the springs were the right length. I am guessing the springs are weak. My plan is to pull the plates and lightly sand them clean and install new springs. Any other thoughts> Any input appreciated. Here's a few sexy pics for viewing enjoyment. R

Wont let me add pics. R :ohmy:

scontent.ffsd1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-x...91bb5b9b&oe=578DF165

You might want to try the clear tube test to verify fuel level in the float bowls.

Also, just a reminder to retorque the head after 500 miles or so.

On the fuel leakage, check the spring tension of the little pin in the needle valve, I've had leakage when they get weak.

With the clutch slippage, before buying anything, carefully follow the pushrod mechanism adjustment procedure in the manual. The only clutch slippage that I've had in any of my 550's (including a couple built to 615) has been because of that reason. I've never had to replace springs or plates.