1981 KZ550A2 Update

Sounds like a good plan.
Steve

rrsmsw9999 wrote: At 3500 miles I can't imagine rings or pistons being an issue.

Just something else to consider, with the TK carbs that you have, were all the choke flaps present? If not, they most likely went through the motor. they usually don't do horrible damage but can ding the top of the piston or "pinch" a ring on the piston. It's probably fine but i had this when i took my top end off. The ring pinch was very minor and i was able to clean up the piston ring groove carefully and its been running great for years now!

Sound advice.

Yes been inspected and they are all present, inspected and stake glued.

Thanks

R

Yeah, guessing so as well. A few odd seals not in any kit,cover allen bolt set, cam end plugs, 1194 for the case, clutch hub holder shot right up to over a Grant quickly. There is only one way to this, the right way :silly:

R

It really sucks about the bottom seal, but I'm not going to lie I am kind of excited to see your progress. Keep the videos coming, especially if you split the cases they defiantly could become a good resource.

Yes I will video a lot as much for me rather than viewing pleasure. :woohoo: Of I have pics or video I'll take video. Edited versions will get to you tube and links posted here. R

That's how I do it.
Steve

Been reading and studying a lot, parts and supplies on the way. I will begin prep for engine removal once it gets above 10 frigging degrees again. It's been - single digits during this cold snap that is now on its third day and won't let up til Sunday. Winter is long in WI :lol:

One question I have seems basic but I wanted to ask. It would seem to me that both the clutch hub bolt and flywheel bolt could be freed using the drive train and rear brake rather than any special holders, and then torqued after back in the frame. Any thoughts here? Any shortcuts on a proper flywheel puller? Given I have the right side crank oil seal leaking, I will replace the left side too, not buttoning back up one remaining 35 year old crank oil seal. Secondary shaft/starter clutch also has to come out to split. Wanna make sure those bolts are freed before out of frame and no decent flywheel holder is available. That would suck. Feeling confident on this. I am good enough, strong enough, and gosh darnit, people like me ! R

You shouldn't have to do that. The only seals are on the points side and the sprocket side. You should be able to take the covers off, the advance and sprocket off now. With the engine upside down, the lower half should come right off once the pan is off of course.
Steve

Looking a the manual I don't see how the lower case comes off with out removing the secondary shaft. It's in the bottom half chained to the crank when not removed. R

The crank bolts got through the case and there are a few under the pan. When you get the engine out, take some pics of the bottom and the top so we can coach you through the process. I should have taken pics of my tranny swap. It would've been easier but I was in a hurry to ride. :woohoo:
Steve

I know how you guys like pics so see below.

Nice stand, but pricey to not come with the elevator hitch pins.

R