working on an idea for the pivot bolt solution on my kz750 with a zrx1100 swinger. i know the the kz swing arm runs with four needle bearings(two on each side) and a sleeve between them. im wondering if i can get away with removing the ball bearing in the zrx pivot tube and replacing it with another needle bearing , then machine a new sleeve that run the full length of the pivot tube (instead on stoping at the ball bearing with the OD of the zrx sleeve and the ID on the KZ sleeve. thus retaining my OEM pivot tube bolt. Any thought or concerns? links to diagrams below.

www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/1981-kawasa...e/o/m150570#sch87217

www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2000-kawasa...c/o/m149508#sch77886

Changed the oil and filter, took off the engine sprocket cover and scraped off the thick layers of muck. Thought my engine sprocket was loose but I guess it's supposed to be able to wobble a bit? Adjusted my clutch while I was in there. It drags a bit with the clutch in but apparently That is normal too!

Tightened the chain, had to move two whole tick marks on the swing arm to get it within spec....rear sprocket isn't looking too hot so going to order new ones, should probably get a chain at the same time?

Trying to decide on sprocket tooth counts for the front and back. I heard these 6 speeds can be a bit short geared for highway cruising so might as well remedy that now.

This is not realy a project but restauration to its original. Finished today....

Kawasaki KZ 1100 J 1982.
Charm of previous years, muscle bike of 80s in original! European version generates 100KM and powerful torque. Presents the best engineering of its time and belongs to family of Muscle Bikes that conquer hearts of all bikers world wide.
Kawasaki looks as if She left the factory yesterday, only 56kkm original mileage and engine in perfect condition checked by professionals (compression in each cylinder equal like new), valve clearance adjusted and very best quality synthetic ester graphite engine oil Xenum 10w60 filled up.
ENGINE: All sealants were checked and changed for OEM, bolts, nuts, washers all polished stainless steel, new spark plugs, new coil wires, whole engine glass blasted, carbs checked adjusted and synchronized.
WHEELS: glass blasted, branded new tires, bearings re-greased, sealants changed,
SUSPENSION: front forks with new OEM sealants and new oil, glass blasted, rear shocks KONI completely renewed and like new condition, powder coated
FRAME and OTHER: frame powder coated, swing arm powder coated, rear gear glass blasted, side stand, central stand powder coated, all together 50 parts powder coated. Seat powder coated and new foam inside. All bolts stainless steel or chromed.
TANK: professionally treated with (Fedox, Fertran, Tapox) ani rost treatment and painted inside with fuel resistant painture. Outside original Kawasaki paint No. 307.
ELECTRIC/HARNESS: new battery, harness redone and coted, speedo and odo powder coated and polished with LED warning lights.
BRAKES: caliper painted with heat proof paint, all new sealants and brake pads, partially steel coated wires, master cylinder powder coated with new sealants. Brake discs like new professionally refurbished.
EXCHAUST: front pipes polished, endtopf heat resistant powder coated, stainless steel clamps.
I was trying to bring Kawasaki to its original look therefore all parts are OEM without any changes. Of course some small differences can be found but I make ready everything for use maintenance free for the next 30-40 years.

doctorcat wrote: curious: where did you find the bushings for it? Tempted to make my own at this rate...

I'm not sure if your asking me but i removed the stock swingarm and fit a ninja 250 swingarm. I used existing Ninja swingarm bearings and just made custom spacers for correct fitment.

curious: where did you find the bushings for it? Tempted to make my own at this rate...

Scirocco wrote: He can use the bottom torque link,push or pull torque it is the same force effect.

Not true. I suspect you haven't looked at the swing arm and disk brake setup. (See image below.) There's no way I can see that one could attach a torque link from the disk brake caliper bracket to the bottom of the swing arm without some serious modifications to things. Notice the bracket has the mounting point for the torque link on the right hand side and the torque link runs from that mounting point to the top / forward part of the swing arm. I see no way to run it to the bottom of the swing arm. Even if one was to hang that caliper bracket facing down instead of up the mounting point would then be facing the rear of the bike rather than the front. Ed

Swing arm is all nice and shiny waiting for new bearings to be installed, I got those and a bunch of other parts from partzilla

I used some threaded rod and a couple of sockets to fit the new bearings
Swing arm fitted

Hey guys with the modifications I have on my bike should I be using stock spark plugs something else.

76 Kz900 A4 custom
New front forks
mono shock swingarm
73mm piston kit - 1105cc
Dyna s ignition & coils
Pods
Vance & Hides exhaust with baffle
Suzuki gs1000 VM28 carbs
Main jet - 130
Pilot jet - 17.5
Air Jet - 2.0
Needle 5DL31 - 4
Float bowl height - 26mm
Air screw - 3/4 turns out
Pilot fuel screw - 1 turns out

Thanks

Welcome aboard! Your bike looks like it's in REALLY great condition! I hope you plan to keep it stock since there are so few left that nice.

Here are some tips that you may find helpful:

Many newbies and not so newbies run into or issues with their bikes which could be easily avoided with a little preparation or information. Here are a couple recommendations that I hope you will find useful.

Before riding your KZ you should take a little time to become familiar with it. Simple things like checking the oil, tire pressures, etc. are explained in the Kawasaki Owner's Manual. If you bike didn't come with one (they normally are in a little holder on the bottom of the seat) you can usually find one on eBay - be sure to get one for your exact year/model.


MANUAL

You really should consider buying the Kawasaki Factory Service Manual for your bike. The factory service manual provides instructions on the various maintenance procedures and schedules for your bike, procedures for diagnosing problems, proper torque values for the various fasteners (VERY IMPORTANT), and insight into how each system on your bike works even if you are not repairing that system. Studying the manual before you attempt performing service on your bike will impart an understanding of the system you are working on which will increase the odds of success.

The manuals usually are readily available for most models on eBay and other sources; but be sure to get one that has your specific year and model in it as there are differences between the various KZ650 models. I do not recommend Clymers, Haynes, or other aftermarket manuals as I have seen instances where they provide inaccurate advice. You may decide to use those to supplement the factory manual, but in my opinion they are not a suitable substitute. If you have trouble finding one for your model ask us to help.


TOOLS

WARNING! Do not even try to use Phillips screwdrivers on the Kawasaki cross head screws. Despite their appearance they are not Phillips screws. They are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) screws. The tips of Phillips screwdrivers are too long & pointed to allow the 4 blades of the screwdriver to properly engage the screws, so when you apply force the screw head slots will deform and look like crap. The fact is that Phillips screws were deliberately designed to have the screwdriver bit "cam out." This was done to prevent production line assembly from over-tightening, stripping, or breaking the screws. JIS screws do not have this problem. A proper fitting JIS bit can tighten a JIS screw to and beyond the torque spec without camming out. Here's the good news - you can easily modify standard Phillips screwdriver tips to fit the JIS screws.

I have ground down the tips of DeWalt #2 and DeWalt #3 Phillips to make them fit JIS screws. The large crosshead screws on the cases take modified #3 bits (or genuine #3 JIS bits). To modify the DeWalt bits you need to grind the very tip a little, then test fit, then grind a little more and test fit, etc. until the bit no longer "rocks" back and forth in the screwhead. Picture 1 below shows how a DeWalt #3 bit fits the case screws of my KZ650 after being ground properly. The #2 DeWalt bits can be modified the same way to fit smaller JIS screws. Pictures 2 and 3 below shows DeWalt #2 and #3 modified bits.

I did find a place that sells authentic JIS bits. They don't list the #3 bit, but if you contact them they can provide the #3 JIS bits even though they are not listed on the website. These folks were very easy to work with, and the authentic bits do work great. Here's their site:

www.rjrcooltools.com/shop_item_detail.cfm?subcat_ID=89

Pictures 4 & 5 below show a comparison between my homemade modified bits with the authentic JIS bits.

PICTURE 1


PICTURE 2


PICTURE 3


PICTURE 4


PICTURE 5


Before reaching for that wrench or ratchet consider the following. The bolts are steel, but your engine and front forks are aluminum. The bolts are much tougher than the aluminum and if over tightened will strip the aluminum threads. Although these can be repaired, preventing damage by applying proper torque will save you grief, time, and money. Tightening fasteners properly requires torque wrenches. Various vendors, including Snap-on, CDI, Sears, etc., market torque wrenches. The two most popular types are the bar type and micrometer type. Either will work, but the micrometer type is a bit easier to use, especially if you are tightening several fasteners with the same torque - such as cylinder head covers. You will need a torque wrench calibrated in INCH POUNDS for many of the bolts. You will also need a torque wrench calibrated in FOOT POUNDS for the larger bolts. Don't try to use the foot pounds wrench on the smaller bolts as it will not be sensitive enough at low torque settings to provide accurate torque. There are many fasteners that require low torque. These include such things as 6mm oil pan bolts, cylinder head cover bolts, etc. for which the torque in 61-78 inch pounds. These low torque bolts require a wrench that is accurate at low settings and this wrench should be graduated in inch pounds. In addition, there are numerous high torque fasteners such as the front axle nuts (51 - 65 foot pounds) or swing arm pivot shaft nuts (58 - 87 foot pounds). These require a wrench that is accurate at higher settings; this wrench should be graduated in foot pounds. Using the proper torque wrenches to correctly tighten fasteners will help prevent damage and contribute to a safe bike. The Kawasaki Service Manual will list the various torque specs for the bolts. I suggest you get the manual before buying the torque wrenches so you can decide which wrenches best meet the torque specs.

Consider buying a can of Kroil penetrating oil and use it to soak stubborn fasteners for a couple days before trying to loosen them. Remember, the original screws and bolts were installed on your bike when Jimmy Carter was President, so many of them may be hard to remove. Kroil can be bought online, at guns shows, and at some other venues.


MOTOR OIL
The ingredients in oils have changed over the years. For example, today's Castrol GTX (and pretty much all AUTOMOBILE oil) is not the same as it was in the 1980's. Back then it worked great in KZ bikes, but things have changed. Zinc and phosphorus additives (ZDDP), important to protect engine components from metal to metal contact, has been reduced since it’s been found to shorten catalytic converter life. Today’s auto oils contain about ½ the ZDDP they used to and different additives have been developed as substitutes. Unfortunately, some of these newer additives, in particular molybdenum disulfide, don’t get along with the wet clutches in our bikes. Newer oils, especially those labeled “Energy Conserving” (EC), which have a high quantity of friction reducing additives, should be avoided. These oils work fine in automobiles but there are better choices for motorcycles.

KZ bikes need oil which is suitable for wet clutches. That distinction was defined by the Japanese Engine Oil Standards Implementation Panel (JASO), and can be noted by oils that meet the "4T” (4 cycle) specification, MA (wet clutch) classification. These oils, which include various synthetic, semi-synthetic, and non-synthetic oils, are sold as specific motorcycle oils. Another type of oil which works well in our bikes is diesel engine oil. These oils are governed by the API (American Petroleum Institute) CI-4/CJ-4 spec and don’t contain clutch-damaging EC additives. You can even purchase Shell Rotella oil which holds a “JASO-MA” certification assuring it will get along well with your wet clutch. All of these newer oils have a reduced ZDDP level too (about 1/3 less than before instead of ½ like the auto oils) but the substitute additives get along better with our bikes needs than automotive oil. Oils that do not hold the JASO-MA rating have either failed the wet clutch test or have not been tested for use in engines with wet clutches. Good luck with the bike! Ed

Are you thinking of racing with WERA that has a V4 Class?

Vintage 4
Pre 1982 Twins/Triples up to 1000cc.
Pre 1979 SOHC up to 840cc.
Pre 1982 Air cooled, 4-stroke OHC multi cylinders up to 570cc. Twin shock only, twin piston opposed Lockheed style calipers permitted. 
Among the eligible V4 machines are the following: BMW R100 regardless of year; Pre-1974 BSA/Triumph with big bore kits; Pre 1988 Cagiva/Ducati 650cc Desmo types and Ducati 900SS bevel drive; H-D Sportsters up to 1000cc including Evo models; Pre-1974 Honda CB 750 overbored to 840cc and Rickman single cam; Honda Ascot/GB singles up to 600cc regardless of year. Kawasaki GPZ550 and KZ 550 (both up to 3mm over); Moto-Guzzi small block V Twins regardless of year and pre-1974 Moto-Guzzi 1000; Norton 850; Suzuki GS 450 and GS 550; Yamaha SRX 600 regardless of year and Seca 550.