The pod filters won't work with your emission control stuff. To remove the emissions stuff, do this:

1. there are vacuum hoses; probably from the carb holders that go to a tee. Remove these and put 7/32" vacuum caps over the fittings. Remove the tee and hose. Remove the hose going to the "cylindrical valve" as well as the valve.
2. Remove the 1" hoses from the valve to your valve cover. Fill the holes in the valve cover with Permatex BLACK RTV. Make sure it cures before starting the bike. Remove the hose that went to your airbox. You also have a hose going from the crankcase breather to the airbox. Since there airbox is no longer there, get a piece of hose and connect to the breather and run it over your swingarm. The purpose of this thing is to allow the crankcase to ventilate and any odd oil blow-by will route over the swingarm as opposed to dumping in your airbox or on your pant leg.

The emissions system was vacuum actuated. The vacuum came from your carb holders I guess. The vacuum actuated a switch which opened reed valves in the valve cover. The reed valves, when open, allowed crud to hit the exhaust port to burn. I doubt this system is particularly effective and its removal has no negative effect on the bike's performance and makes it easier to work on the engine with all of it removed.

I would start with the basics before adding other stuff... install new wheel bearings, tapered steering stem bearings and tapered swingarm bearings. I would put some Progressive fork springs in as well as some Progressive 12 shocks (or other good quality shocks) and use some good tires. If you own a Z1, you probably know that your frame has some places where there are extra welds (compared to the Z1) and you could add a couple more to stiffen the frame which is essentially the problem with any 70s vintage Z/KZ and last, to get rid of any head shake, a steering damper is in order. If you have a steel front fender, be sure to keep it as it adds rigidity and acts as a "fender brace"... I don't think anyone is making braces anymore so one would have to be fabricated I guess or you might find one on eBay. I am not sure of the dimensions but there are probably braces made for other bikes that would work. Last, you mentioned new front ends... lots of folks have switched the entire front end with a more modern bike. Just make sure you get the full brake system, axle and wheel, etc to make the swap less of a chore. I don't care for this alternative as it doesn't much preserve the original bike but if you are looking for better handling, this is an option but I wouldn't forego the new bearings and better tires...

solomrus wrote:

hmm.
instead of klr forks, which are VERY long, and there aren't a plethora of brakes... why not find a later model ltd with the longer forks? dual disk front end, 19" alloy wheel... you get the idea? spring rates will be close, if not spot-on.

I have a set of Spector (KZ1100?) forks here. I wonder if they are the same diameter as the KLR uppers? If I used the KLR upper (it's longer), and the Spector lowers (and springs), that might give me quite a bit of ground clearance. That might be enough for the front. HUMmmmmmmmm.

then, on the rear, either a longer swing, or just throw some longer shocks on?

The Suzuki swing arm is a popular swap. I'm wondering what would happen if I lengthend it a few inches, and added a longer shock from a heavy dual sport bike (KTM Adv, VStrom, ect). It has possibilities.

Thing is, I was riding a stock Z1 on dirt roads for years, when I was younger. It's just lacking a bit of travel. Sure, it would not likely get into the tight stuff my KLR would do. It won't even come close to what the KLX would do. But It might be just the ticket for 2up back road exploring(and cheaper then a GS BMW). Better yet, if I put a sidecar on it, I'd have a lot more ground clearance, becasue the exhaust goes around the right side of the hack.

I like the idea, so far. It's only half-baked, though.

yep just rebuilt my swing arm bearings and I think my air pressure is ok. Also can a tire become warped from a fall or even the rim?

Don't think so. An unbalanced wheel should give you a vibration... one beat for every tire revolution.
Got grease in your swing arm bearings?
Also, check your rear tire pressure... might be low.
And check that your rear wheel is straight on the swing arm. The little marks on the frame for wheel alignment aren't too accurate. Use a metal scale.

I've been thinking. I know I shouldn't, but I can't help it....

I have a Z1 in a few pieces. It's mostly a collection of parts, but I was thinking I might put it back together. Then it occured to me... If my the Z1/KZ suspension had a bit more travel, I might use it for fire road exploring, too.

This is where I go south, I think. I started comparing it to the BMW GS1150R, and KLR650

BMW:
Dry weight: ~ 500lbs
Wheelbase: ~60"
Wheel travle: ~10"

Z1:
Dry weight: ~ 500lbs
Wheelbase: ~57"
Wheel travle: Ummm a lot less

KLR650(a19):
Dry weight: ~ 340lbs
Wheelbase: ~60"
Wheel travle: ~10"


I know the front forks of the KLR are about the same radius, but longer. I'd need a heaver spring rate though. The devel's in the details, but it appears the KLR forks are very similar to teh Z1. It's the rear swing arm that I can't figure out. Maybe a KLR rear end might work too.

It's an interesting thought, that's for sure.

Grinding is not good. First make sure it's chain or sprocket and not wheel bearings. Get her up on centerstand. Rotate wheel and where is the grinding coming from....engine or wheel side? If you have a masterlink chain unhook chain and spin wheel. Is it still grinding? If it is I would say either wheel bearings or hitting chain guard. If it is quiet then drop chain and inspect. Inspect sprockets for wear too. Loosen shocks and check swingarm sideplay too. If you do all that and still have rattles look for marbles. Look for mine too....they seem to be lost!:ohmy: Luck!

A local guy is offering me the rear end off a KZ750 so I can do the disc conversion on my 76 KZ900 (I'm also putting a GS swingarm on with a 4.25 rim and 160 tire). It inludes everything. He want's $200.00 . The parts are preety rough, but I can definately restore them to pristine condition. Does this seem like a fair price?


Thanks

I really don't think it matters what or if they are connected. They are just vents. As long as the line is routed from the T without a kink blocking airflow you're OK.

On mine I've had them routed to the airbox mostly. Once after it was serviced they guy ran them down over the swing arm. I didn't notice any functional change. The last time I had work done the vent hoses completely disappeared. Ran it this way several years until I discovered it recently. No issues. It seems the point of the hose is just to keep crud/water from getting into the T fittings between the carbs and thus the carbs themselves. Just my 2 cents.

I really don't think it matters what or if they are connected. They are just vents. As long as the line is routed from the T without a kink blocking airflow you're OK.

On mine I've had them routed to the airbox mostly. Once after it was serviced they guy ran them down over the swing arm. I didn't notice any functional change. The last time I had work done the vent hoses completely disappeared. Ran it this way several years until I discovered it recently. No issues. It seems the point of the hose is just to keep crud/water from getting into the T fittings between the carbs and thus the carbs themselves. Just my 2 cents.