TOPIC:

Greetings to all; this is my first post. My 1979 KZ1000 MK-II (A3A) is just about 95% restored.

I just removed the stock air box and installed the crome filter pods along with the new jets in the kit available at Cycle-Re-Cycle Part II (eBay: POD FILTER and JET KIT Kawasaki KZ1000 '79-'80) and have several questions:

1). Since the 1" air tube that connects the breather valves (PCV?) on top of the heads with the air box is no longer needed(?) what is done with this air / breather line? I've clamped it for now but would rather have a more permanent solution.
2). The same question for the cylindrical valve on top of the crankcase that connects to the bottom of the air box. I've closed that as well, but would like to confirm that this is the correct solution.
3). Are there any vacuum-related issues related to this customization?

The pod filters won't work with your emission control stuff. To remove the emissions stuff, do this:

1. there are vacuum hoses; probably from the carb holders that go to a tee. Remove these and put 7/32" vacuum caps over the fittings. Remove the tee and hose. Remove the hose going to the "cylindrical valve" as well as the valve.
2. Remove the 1" hoses from the valve to your valve cover. Fill the holes in the valve cover with Permatex BLACK RTV. Make sure it cures before starting the bike. Remove the hose that went to your airbox. You also have a hose going from the crankcase breather to the airbox. Since there airbox is no longer there, get a piece of hose and connect to the breather and run it over your swingarm. The purpose of this thing is to allow the crankcase to ventilate and any odd oil blow-by will route over the swingarm as opposed to dumping in your airbox or on your pant leg.

The emissions system was vacuum actuated. The vacuum came from your carb holders I guess. The vacuum actuated a switch which opened reed valves in the valve cover. The reed valves, when open, allowed crud to hit the exhaust port to burn. I doubt this system is particularly effective and its removal has no negative effect on the bike's performance and makes it easier to work on the engine with all of it removed.

Make sure the breather from the crankcase is NOT clamped off. It MUST be open. Route hose over chain, will give a few free drops of oil to it periodically.

Thanks! Not having read the forum as yet, I took the bike out for a spin tonight and it seems to run *a lot* better: stronger, smoother, etc. I'll make sure these things are done before the next time out. Thanks again!

TM

Thanks to all! I did as instructed and the bike runs great! It sometimes seems like it looses power though, much like the loss of a cylinder. This usually happens after leaning on the throttle a bit. I just replaced the old Kerker with a brand new V&H 4-1 pipe, rejetted the carbs (after cleaning them to within an inch of their lives) and replaced the air box with a set of chrome air filter pods. Should I rebuild the entire carb set instead of just replacing the jets? The new jets are non-standard to accomdate the header and the filter pods.

Post edited by: KZ1000_Rider_1955, at: 2006/10/29 12:19

Hey, can I have your old airbox???

I'm glad that your pods are working well for you. It seems that about half of the folks who go to pods end up going back to a stock setup after they get frustrated trying to tune the bike. I suggest that you keep the old air box just in case.

Another reason is that if you try to sell the bike advertising that you have the stock setup adds value.

KZCSI

Post edited by: KZCSI, at: 2006/11/30 08:49