From previous part of story about chain guard attentive reader (or rather attentive picture looker) might notice that chain guard inner mount was already attached to new mount bracket. This mount is longer than original and placed farther from swingarm axle. The reason of such modification is that Kawasaki KZ650 sprockets lay in plane that close to longitudinal axis of motorcycle than plane of Zephyr 550 sprockets. Let me demonstrate this by placing a strip of paper tape on Zephyr 550 swingarm:



This strip of paper tape has width that is slightly larger than width of trace which 525 chain leaves on rubber chain slider, and its position is verified by laser tool. So we may say that it marks optimal position of chain slider for KZ650.



Now let’s put original Zephyr 550 chain guard (used, so we clearly could see the trace of Zephyr 550 drive chain) on the swingarm. And as we could clearly see, potential KZ650 chain’ trace is shifted to right (or to center of swingarm) comparing to trace of 550 drive chain.





On practice it means two things:

• Zephyr 550 chain slider does not cover all operating width of KZ650 chain. It’s likely wouldn’t be an issue, as long as drive chain is properly tightened. However it’s slightly inaccurate, so I will think about possible solutions for this issue;
• KZ650′ chain would be too close to inner mount of chain guard.

Hi all,
I am planning to replace the rear suspension unit on my GPZ 750 Unitrak model by a Wilbers or alike.
At this opportunity I would also like to examine, grease and, if needed, renew the various needle bearings constituting the Unitrak system.

While for the most UT components and levers it is pretty obvious on how to dismantle them, I am though not sure how to dismount the 22mm wrench size bolt that connects the rockerarm to the frame.
I dont seem to have an idea on how to pull this darn 10-15 cm long bolt as the centre stand gets in this way.
There is only around 10mm room to maneuvre. by far not sufficient to pull off the bolt. See picture.

One may think to just fold up or remove the centre stand which would sure provide enough clearance but since the rear wheel has to be removed first before disjointing the suspension I need the centre stand folded down to keep the machine standing upright. Hmm, bit of a drama ...
In a professional workshop they may have other supports availiable to keep the machine in a firm position but in my humble garage I dont.

Now I ve been pondering hard on a plan on how to overcome the issue before I'd start the work.

Here is my point:
I was wondering if anyone has ever dismantled the Unitrak swing arm and suspension system including the rocker arm and may have a hint. May be there is a trick I dont see?

Ideas appreciated

Thx in advance !!!!

If those shims aren't noted in the parts diagram I could only assume someone put them in there to tighten things up a bit. It could be the end caps or other parts were worn and the previous owner didn't want to replace them. Are end caps on the sides of the swingarm? I am just guessing because I am not familiar with this bike. In any event it certainly doesn't sound right, but I am sure others will chime in. Do you have a service manual for the bike? I would be surprised if this was some sort of suggested repair to tighten the swing arm up but one never knows. It couldn't have been very easy forcing the shims in place.
Rick H.

I took the swing arm off of my bike to check the condition of the bearings and noticed that about 6 or 8 (3 or 4 on each side) paper thin metal washers came out with it. When I put it back together with out them (since they were in pretty bad shape) there is almost 2mm of side to side play in the swing arm. I checked the parts breakdown for that bike and it doesn't show those washers and all the other parts appear to be there and appear to be in decent shape. It's almost as if the swing arm is the incorrect size but everything appears to be stock. I made sure the bolt was torqued to spec but the play is still there. Does anyone have any experience with this sort of thing or have any suggestions on what may be happening?

78kawltd wrote: Here is what is being sold on Ebay to compare the longer length. IE. Selling A 1977 center stand .
Help please.

On my original '76 900-LTD (bought new), I disliked not having a center stand, so I bought one for the std 900 from the dealer, and welded a leg to it, cushioned with a rubber cane tip, which contacted the right rear swing arm, and kept the the stand from contacting the Lt. muffler.

So when I recently acquired another '76 900-LTD, I bought the center stand shown above, but this time did not want to damage the powdercoating of the new stand, so I fabbed up a bolt-on piece to attach to the Rt Rr swing arm, which is the stop to keep the stand off the muffler.

As far as high effort to get it on the stand, I would recommend shortening the legs JUST enough that you are more easily able to get it on the stand. Have modified a few myself, after using a helper and shimming BOTH tires with 1/8-1/4" thick shims, until the height was sufficient to make getting it on the stand acceptable. Once you know how much you want to take off, it's a simple matter of sectioning the legs and re-welding/painting them.

This post is about work on KZ650 chassis: modifying some parts, and calculating, and drawing all adapters I have to order to be made: for Zephyr 550 swingarm, for shocks, and so on. This work needs some concentration, and it’s result doesn’t looks impressive. However, it has some interesting moments. For example, I decided to check, if Zephyr 550 swingarm has symmetrically positioned shock mounts. One may say: what might be easier, just put straight rod to shock mount and check if distance between rod and sleeve housing is similar on both sides. But nope, it wouldn’t work. The only parts that really must be straight and leveled in Zephyr 550 swingarm are: sleeve, its housing, and chain tension eccentrics. Swingarm mounts might be completely in place, but slightly angled to longitude axle. And even one degree of deviation on length of swingarm would end up as 9.5mm of difference. So the best idea is to make measuring depending on things that are straight for sure. So as base for my measuring I used swingarm sleeve being pulled on some fixed distance from bearings.

And sure, I used laser tool instead of rod. I put it to sleeve and pull sleeve to the level where laser beam is aimed to center of left inner shock mount.





Then I measured distance from end of sleeve to sleeve housing and pulled sleeve from other side of housing on same distance. Beam of laser tool, that I put on sleeve, was aimed completely in same point of right shock mount.





This means that shock mount of Zephyr 550 swingarm positioned symmetrically to sleeve and its housing. To make sure that there was no mistake I put some leveled part (like wheel spacer) to sleeve housing and repeated measuring. Result was the same, thus symmetrical position of shock mounts was confirmed.

Little illustration of fact that eccentric’ end and sleeve/housing’ ends are in parallel planes:

DNort wrote: Hello everyone!

2. Anyone know how large of a rear tire I can run? I don't often go on highways but I'd like to lower my RPMs for longer trips.
Currently the rear tire is a 120/90/18

3. Any recommendations for tires in general? I plan on mostly Cruising with some occasional spirited riding.

4. Anything maintenance wise I need to keep an eye on? I heard these engines can twist cranks if you over-rev them. Is there any special maintenance needed for the fuel pump or the injection system? I typically make sure to start it and let it run for a while at least once a month during the winter.

5. The rear swingarm has been swapped for one out of a suzuki GS1000. I currently have the stock one. I plan on leaving the suzuki one in there but it seems like it makes the bike a little lower. I don't think I care too much. I imagine the Suzuki one is an upgrade as I've heard it's longer and wider. It seems to ride nice. Can anyone confirm or give me any more details about this sort of swap?

Welcome to the forum! That GPZ looks cherry!

to answer some of your questions:

1. I don't have experience with this exact model but on many other Kawasaki's I believe this is a m6 bolt. its easy enough to check by trying a known m6 bolt.

2. You are limited by the width of the wheel. you may be able to run a 130 wide tire depending on manufacturer specs. However, if you are only doing this to lower your cruising RPM the preferred method is to either increase the front sprocket or decrease the rear sprocket to change the final drive ratio. increasing the front sprocket tooth count will also extend your chain life. here is a gearing calculator

www.gearingcommander.com/

3. Avon Road riders are good, Bridgestone BT-45 are nice because they are dual compound.

4. These engines can twist cranks if you are launching them with a slick, or start modding them for big horsepower. For everyday street riding on a mild engine twisting the crank is not a concern. Other things to keep an eye out for are pretty much standard on old bikes, dodgy wiring, hard old rubber... etc. maybe someone else can chime in here.

5. That swingarm is actually off a GS1100E, it is indeed slightly longer and wider, but the biggest advantage is it is much stiffer than the stock swing-arm, and weighs less. Its a nice period correct upgrade.

Hello everyone!

After owning a 82 Kawasaki LTD 550, and then an 82 Kawasaki LTD 750, I decided to keep up my hat trick of owning 1982 kawasaki's
Late last year I've acquired a lightly (and IMO tastefully) modified 82 GPZ1100. It still has the fuel injection and it starts and drives perfectly.

Modifications include a steering dampener. An Aluminum subframe off of a Suzuki GS1000 (I have the stock one still, but I'm not sure if there were any permanent modifications to make this Suzuki subframe work, please let me know), braided steel brake lines.

All around the bike seems to be in really good shape. I plan on keeping it mostly as it is, aside from putting some of the stock bits and bobs back on, Like the stock turn signals (I got a set) and the rail that goes around teh back of the seat. (the former owner took off the rear inner fender, which looked silly IMO and also left the wiring harness for the PCM kind of exposed which I didn't like. I put that back on already)

Threads are generally useless without pics, and while she isn't perfect I think she is beautiful and I really enjoy riding her.

I have a few questions though.
1. Does anyone know the size of the bolt that goes through the helmet lock to hold the rail that goes around the seat back on? Everything is in quarantine and I'd like to avoid.

2. Anyone know how large of a rear tire I can run? I don't often go on highways but I'd like to lower my RPMs for longer trips.
Currently the rear tire is a 120/90/18

3. Any recommendations for tires in general? I plan on mostly Cruising with some occasional spirited riding.

4. Anything maintenance wise I need to keep an eye on? I heard these engines can twist cranks if you over-rev them. Is there any special maintenance needed for the fuel pump or the injection system? I typically make sure to start it and let it run for a while at least once a month during the winter.

5. The rear swingarm has been swapped for one out of a suzuki GS1000. I currently have the stock one. I plan on leaving the suzuki one in there but it seems like it makes the bike a little lower. I don't think I care too much. I imagine the Suzuki one is an upgrade as I've heard it's longer and wider. It seems to ride nice. Can anyone confirm or give me any more details about this sort of swap?

I look forward to meeting you all! Thank you in advance for any advice you may have!

Those are BEAUTIFUL Scirocco! I would have to re-mortgage my house $$$ to buy them & ship from Germany!!!
Those wheels are on my Fantasy Dream Motorcycle! The 2 tires would be drag slicks!

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationI found these and bought a set about 6 months ago for a custom build. Haven’t started yet, still acquiring parts and waiting on frame, swing arm (GS1100E), and small parts to come back from powder coat. I wasn’t worried they were black. But I assume yo could them the recoated.