I have purchased many parts from Z-1 and found them to be a very high quality organization.

There are a few photo's on my thread wiring harness fuel tank etc.

www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/274097...rm-89-gsxr-front-end

Go forward with no fear !!

I cut the brake stay off the top and welded a new one to the bottom for the drum. Mixed and matched some spacers from the local junkyard, GS axle. I just bought a 3.5 wheel and plan on adding a 160 tire as well. May need to pie cut the gussets and weld them flat to the inside of the arm to fit, not sure yet. Flipped the brake arm up and custom linkage. Not hard if you have fab skills or access to a shop. Otherwise, use a disc wheel and mount a MC, much less fab, but not as cool.

Check valve clearances, you my just have one valve that is too tight and not closing all the way. Also, regarding the carb hookups, if your carbs are like mine there will be overflow nipples on the bottom. They should each have a separate drain tube connected to them that runs down between the back of the engine and the swingarm and hangs down toward the ground so any overflow fuel will drip on the ground. The fuel inlet is an upward facing "T" between the #2 and #3 carbs and that should connect to the petcock outlet. There should be a brass nipple on the upper left side of carbs #2 & #4. These are vents and should each have a tube that runs from them up and toward the back of the bike and end in open air (mine happen to end in the air cleaner tube, but that is not a necessity). If your bike has a vacuum operated petcock there may be another port at the #2 carb; a tube will run from this to the petcock vacuum nipple to provide the necessary vacuum to operate the petcock. Ed

To answer the previous questions:

1. Yes, the stock ZRX swing arm had to be modified slightly. If you read the post from above, I explained by front and rear what needed to happen to install them. The swing arm pivot tube (which is aluminum) that all the swing arm bearings reside in, needed to have the right hand side trimmed about 1/8" of an inch. Due to KZ frame tolerance, this dimension could vary slightly.

2. The front required the stock KZ stem be swapped by machining a reducer bushing that adapted the OD of the KZ steering stem to the ID of the ZRX original steering stem hole. In addition, the top ZRX triple had to have its steering stem hole enlarged from 18mm to 28mm to fit the top of the KZ steering stem.

3. I have not measured the length of the ZRX forks from axle center point to the top of the fork. I can try and get that information for you if you want. All suspension, wheels, tires, brakes came from the 2001-2005 ZRX1200Rs. The ZRX still used a 160mph speedo driven by cable. they are 43 mm forks that are fully adjustable and rebuildable.

4. I am using stock gauges for this build. I like the vintage look, but will be moddified visually to fit the theme of the bike.

5. I work for Cummins. I do own a 7.3 Powerstroke (T444E) though. I used to spec out and build custom turbos for applications that Holset (the turbo manufacturer) did not make stock. Anything from Subaru powered airplanes to 700ci Aries alcohol pulling tractors.

I think that was all the questions? :woohoo:

Cory

wireman wrote: Straight out of the plummen/wireman homemade tool catalog! :laugh:
Nice welding!

Yeah i saw a photo of that tool on this site and made it. I think it was either plummen's or your photo. :lol: I can't take credit for the welding. that is the handy work of Eric Waunch of High Performance Welding in Bothell, WA. he has been squeezing some time in on the bike here and there for me.

So here is my carb cleaning experience with the pinesol. I used it straight and soaked each carb for a couple days, I noticed that the pinesol in two of the buckets had turned cloudy on day three, i figured it was because they had the dirtiest carbs in them or something.I kinda forgot about them, but on my way through the garage i remembered them and dumped them out of the pine sol. They looked pretty good, but still kinda dark.

This is where I screwed up. I should have immediately rinsed the pinesol off. But i didn't, and it turned into a oily film on the carbs. :pinch: Also the two buckets that got cloudy developed white deposits on the carbs.

I tried using solvent to remove it but all it did was remove the oil and left the film. I tryed soaking it in parts solvent hoping it would dissolve, all it did was rust some springs and a couple screws. :sick:

I then found this THIS and decided to try boiling them in lemon juice, because i screwed the pooch bad this time.

I boiled them in straight lemon juice outside on my camp stove. It has a strange smell that is not that great. I used the tray in a carb-dip can for the small parts. I boiled them for 30 minutes them immediately moved them to a pot of boiling water and boiled them for 30 more minutes. I then blew compressed air through all the passages.

It cleaned them right out! I had to do the ones with the white deposits on them 3 times till i was satisfied, but they are clean as a whistle.

The process turned all the parts dark grey and flat, and the pinsole stained the irregularitys in the castings. I think it may have pitted them slightly as well, but it could be like that from the factory for all I know. the lemon juice turned all the brass parts copper in color as they oxidized. The pot metal parts faired the worst. It seems as if the lemon juice removed a layer of paint from them, they are slightly pitted, just a bit rough not too bad. is this bad?




Also the lemon juice removed the rust, I was very impressed with this.



I bought a soda blaster and soda blasted the everything, and washed it down. They have a good shine on them now.

I started reassembly but forgot to buy a couple things so they are on hold for a moment.

On a different note, Turns out the frame is bent, possibly the swing-arm as well. Took it to Wasco Frame Repair in Tacoma a couple of weeks ago, he should be finishing up with it soon.

I did get the rind gaps sorted and the rings on the pistons.

I got a little derailed after my retardation with the carbs, but it all worked out and Im pretty happy with the results. I feel revitalized on this project, and I cant wait to get the frame back and re-do all the body work including some custom side covers!

I know it has been asked before and i have searched the forum.

I have the oportunity to get one of these what the concensus? worth it I have a KZ900 would like to retain the drum brake and and put a 160 tyre on (3.5 - 4) rim. Anyone done this with drums

any assistance is appreciated thanks Jason

Thanks guys, kinda what I figured. They aren't cheap, but that's usually a sign they're worth it.

And yes, after measuring everything, a 160 should fit in the GS1100 swingarm with a 530 conversion and slightly offset sprockets.

Thanks guys. Hopefully it is decent and not missing tons of parts.


Marty,thanks for that link. I saved the picture so I will be able to compare to his to see what is missing. If it is worth good money and there are guys out there that actually need it I won't bother putting it on a shelf in the hopes I get to build a bike "someday". The guy really only wants the swingarm but he said he can find people to sell the rest to. I am going tomorrow so I will let you guys know how it tuns out. Is there anyway to tell if the turbo unit is still useable without needing a rebuild or is it one of those things that guys will go ahead and rebuild anyway just to be sure.

Those nipples on the bottom of the carbs are overflow drains. They should each have a separate drain tube connected to them that runs down between the back of the engine and the swingarm and hangs down toward the ground so any overflow fuel will drip on the ground. The fuel inlet is an upward facing "T" between the #2 and #3 carbs and that should connect to the petcock outlet. There should be a brass nipple on the upper left side of carbs #2 & #4. These are vents and should each have a tube that runs from them up and toward the back of the bike and end in open air (mine happen to end in the air cleaner tube, but that is not a necessity). If you bike has a vacuum operated petcock there may be another port at the #2 carb; a tube will run from this to the petcock vacuum nipple to provide the necessary vacuum to operate the petcock. Ed

les holt wrote: The really newer stuff offers a lot of tuning you can't get with the old plus you end up with good brakes and a lot less flex, not to mention it does look good when done well. I've been shooting for the newest stuff I can afford, less chance of needing seals or road rash and that is worth something to me anyway.

Les

Les what do you recommend? I would like to run at least a 150 on the back and do not really want to cut the frame. I would like to match the front end to the rear swing arm.