I noticed the cupped serrated washer but figured you swapped them in for the front foot pegs. I don’t know what they might be for but they are not anything I have seen in a Kz hardware lot.


EDIT, As for the “T” blocks that go in the rear swing arm. I never figured that one out either. I think black is correct. But if you search on NOS you will find them zinc. I left mine in the swing arm when it was powder coated so I went with that. 

Also, I've found , what I think are the perfect wheels for a swap on these old bikes, that is if you are going to go to 17 inch wheels, take into account I've also used a different front end and swingarm, and some mods to the wheels are to be done, I'll be swapping to these wheels later on down the track. They are a set of 17 x 3.5 front and 17 x 4.5 for the rear, they are from the late model 2017-2019 Z650 Kawasaki, 5 spoke and way lighter than the original Kawasaki mags. I'm having to machine a small amount from the front disc mounts, and some from the rear sprocket carrier but the difference in unsprung weight will be noticeable, I think they look great as well...  Its still a bit of work to make any aftermarket, or different model wheels fit though, not a job for the inexperienced.....

 

It seems like you're mostly asking about rear shocks?  I have some opinions, but none of it is based on first hand experience.  Just a lot of reading and hanging out around here.

As far as best bang for the buck, I'd say Hagon or Ikon.  Progressive is probably ok, but the things they offer seem to fall into the "I guess these might fit" category. 
Personally, I'd be most inclined to go with Ikon, although I'm not so sure about their Tri-Rate springs.

As if money were no object, it seems like Öhlins is very highly respected and very expensive.  But if I'm paying a lot of money, I want the shocks to be tailored very specifically to my application.  Personally I would chose Race Tech over Öhlins.  Race Tech builds shocks for your specific bike, swingarm geometry, weight, and riding style.  You fill out a form with all the details, they make you something to fit.  I'm sure there are plenty of folks that customize Öhlins shocks as well (being such a well known brand) but Race Tech seems pretty legit and the customizing process looks like it would be pretty simple.  I can't really speak to the build quality and valve technology.  Maybe Öhlins is better in some way?

The others in the list range from real cheap to expensive.  It seems to me that the cheap ones are probably not worth the savings over Hagon.  The more expensive and exotic brands may not be set up perfect for your specific bike, and it may be hard to find someone who knows who to customize or service them.

 

Hey guys!

First a quick intro:
25 years old, first motorcycle since riding 50cc’s as a 16 year old.I’ve been lurking around the forum for some time now, and have since gotten very good answers to my questions regarding the technicalities around the bike (thanks!). And instead of making a new post everytime I run into a problem, I thought it would be better to just make a project thread.

I bought a -79 KZ650B (I think it’s a B2A?) in august, and although it initially was very hard to get it running, it eventually fired up, and wow, I must say it was quite a joy to ride! (in comparison to 50cc’s atleast)

So, my plans for this project is to basically do a resto-mod (in my own way). And to get a more streamlined-look on the bike. Originally my plan was to do a café build, but after a while the original look just grew on me, so I’m going to keep the seat and rear fairing as it is, + no rear hoop, it would be a shame to chop it up IMO.

Here is a couple pictures from when I had just loaded it into the car after an 11-hour drive:





I figured I could start out with the things I have done to the bike so far:

• Switched out the handlebar to a LSL00 Street bar (steel), drilled holes for wiring

 

• Started cleaning/sanding and painting the frame with hammerite (ideally I would powdercoat it, but I want the bike ready for the season and I don’t have time to strip it all. Maybe in the future ---hammerite can be used as primer btw).

 

• Disassembled the front forks, since the oil seals were leaking (I’m thinking of painting the lower fork legs black aswell)

 

• Fabricated new (lowered) instrument gauge brackets (with lucas flush mount indicator lights)
  (wired up already, ready for paint)

 

• Starter clutch upgrade (ZR7S) with the complete secondary shaft, oil pump and pressure release valve

 

• Changed the clutchplates while I was upgrading the starter clutch

 

• Lucas 525 rear taillight + fabricated a bracket for it (ready for paint)

 

• Oil + filter change (Ride ENI 10w-40 JASO-MA)

 

• Halfway done with prepping the sidecovers, tank and rear fairing for new paint.

Parts I have acquired already, just have to mount them:

• Henry abe airbox/airfilter
  #107,5 and #110 main jets
  #17,5 pilot jets
  New gaskets for the carbs

 

• R.S side cover complete with emblem (the bike came with one from an LTD or something)

 

• New fuse box with blade fuses 4in-4out

 

• Waterproof connectors for the wiring harness (I’m gonna change them all out to save me headaches from bad connections later on). + putting braided wire loom on them.

 

• Short stem replica mirrors.

 

• Headlight ear brackets (to go with the gauge bracket I fabricated)

 

• New turn signals (small ones, black aluminum)

 

• New NOS instrument gauge covers in black

 

• New fork seals + dust covers

 

• 4* new carb holders

 

• Wheel bearings for the front and rear

 

• Steering bearing kit (all balls tapered roller bearings)

 

• Needle bearings for the swing arm

 

• New spark plugs (BP7ES)

 

• New fuel tank damper

 

• New capacitors and points

 

• Complete gasket kit (for maintenance and upgrades along the way)

 

• New brake pads for the front and brake shoes for the rear drums

Future plans:

• Removing rust from tank (there is very little of it, just some small flakes, and no leaks, but want it done).

 

• Cleaning carbs, rejetting.

 

• Painting the tank, side covers and rear fairing in a very dark metallic green color with dual gold pinstripes (I’m thinking of detailing the tank/side cover emblems gold aswell)

 

• Mounting the henry abe airbox, I have to get ahold of some foam for it first

 

• engine guards – with the three point mounting

 

• switching out the front and rear fenders, preferably to a shorter type, might have to fabricate some.

 

• Dual disk brake setup in the front

 

• Steering damper(s) (maybe?)

 

• SH775 rectifier regulator (maybe? Heard it was a good upgrade from the original one)

 

• mount a small led bar (maybe?) beneath the headlight if I’m not happy with the stock-light. I dont want to ruin the retro look on the bike, but safety first.

Photobomb time.

wrote:

Just curious, have you installed the swing arm, the rim and tire you are going to use along with the shocks without their springs and check to make sure nothing will come in contact with your tire throughout the whole range of suspension travel??
 

I haven't taken the springs out but the clearance under the tail section would allow the springs to fully compress. I'll double check again later though, thanks.

 

wrote:

Got the frame back.

 

 Did the back end myself - changed the brackets to a straight bar and just plugged the end of the tubes. Welds are a little bit better with the reading glasses.

  

  

  

 

Just curious, have you installed the swing arm, the rim and tire you are going to use along with the shocks without their springs and check to make sure nothing will come in contact with your tire throughout the whole range of suspension travel??

Wanted to change things up a little and really see what the APE TracKing clutch was capable of and had the parts laying around, sort of.

Changed the footrest location to go back to GP shift style of gear selection for more positive upshifts, and I think it will be more comfortable.  I had recently received a big pile of oil cooled GSXR parts and stuff so I am picking through that as well for changes to this old girl.  
6" over 1995 GSXR750 swingarm will be a good bit different for me and if I don't like it I will change it back.

wrote:

wrote:

Looks like if you get the swingarm angle right the chain line will work out ok. I'd be tempted to move the swingarm pivot closer to the engine now there's all that room there, a nice small wheelbase would be fun and speed up handling, you'd have heaps of options with swingarms too as length would be less of a problem.......

Had a good measure up last night and things aren't too far out. Need to space the front sprocket out by 5mm and I am lined up. I like the idea of moving the swingarm pivot but I am not molesting the frame too much. Will rebuild the original motor for it one day and may put that back in. 

I was looking at a Rickman frame the other day and noticed the  gap between the pivot and the rear of the engine, that's where that thought came from. I know its probably sacrilege modifying a Rickman frame but it was the first thing I thought of, they have a rather short swingarm....

wrote:

Looks like if you get the swingarm angle right the chain line will work out ok. I'd be tempted to move the swingarm pivot closer to the engine now there's all that room there, a nice small wheelbase would be fun and speed up handling, you'd have heaps of options with swingarms too as length would be less of a problem.......

Had a good measure up last night and things aren't too far out. Need to space the front sprocket out by 5mm and I am lined up. I like the idea of moving the swingarm pivot but I am not molesting the frame too much. Will rebuild the original motor for it one day and may put that back in. 

Safety checks first.  Brake pads, fluid level, all the signals, brake light and head light.  To bleed the brake by hand....fill your reservoir, loosen the bleed nipple, pump the brake and hold while tightening the bleed nipple.  Release the brake lever and test the brake.  If still soft then loosen the bleed nipple again.  Repeat as often as necessary.  

Other things to change....oil and filter, air filter and grease the swingarm.  

Other things to check....chain wear, sprockets, tires, sparkplugs.

The best carb kits are made by Keyster, in Japan.  You can get them through Z1 Enterprises, or directly from Keyster.

Oh...let's see some photos of your bike!