Search Results (Searched for: gs swing arm)
Replied by tk11b40 on topic 1975 KZ 900 , ZRX Swingarm, 89 GSXR front end
04 Apr 2013 02:27
tk11b40
YAAAAYYY !
Friday morning I go pick up the bike.
It's been a long time in the shop, kind of a restraining order situation as I was really going to burn it, shoot it, or drag it down the street. The court of opinion has granted me the patience to start again.
Steve has had it in his shop, (for a year) and never seems to mind it sitting there. He is a saint, or at a minimum the bikes guardian angel. If it was in the (my) garage, I would have taken my buddies Barrett 50 cal. to it by now.
The bike is a converstaion starter in Steves shop, so he does not mind.
I am ready to get going on it again, and the painter will be here Friday to pick up the bodywork and add stripes. Many thanks to my neighbor who we refer to as "S-2"... he likes to remain unknown. All the work I have been doing on his bike (the gixxer) has him feeling like he should help me out, so he had his painter call me and inform me that "S-2" is funding the graphic work on the KZ. Good friends are hard to come by.
I don't think it will be dyno'd... so I seriously need some suggestions at jetting size.
Main_____
Pilot_____
It is in running order now, just rich. I have a track day scheduled for the end of April. I hope to get it out there for the shakedown. Will post photo's of that.
Jetting !! I have not jetted a KZ since 1989. seems like it was a 122 main, but that is all I remember.
Stock cams, Kerker, 998 bore. Should be a black and white recipe out ther amongst all of you?
PLEASE PLEASE ??
MAIN__________
PILOT_________
just want to get in the ballpark. I will tune it on the track.
Friday morning I go pick up the bike.
It's been a long time in the shop, kind of a restraining order situation as I was really going to burn it, shoot it, or drag it down the street. The court of opinion has granted me the patience to start again.
Steve has had it in his shop, (for a year) and never seems to mind it sitting there. He is a saint, or at a minimum the bikes guardian angel. If it was in the (my) garage, I would have taken my buddies Barrett 50 cal. to it by now.
The bike is a converstaion starter in Steves shop, so he does not mind.
I am ready to get going on it again, and the painter will be here Friday to pick up the bodywork and add stripes. Many thanks to my neighbor who we refer to as "S-2"... he likes to remain unknown. All the work I have been doing on his bike (the gixxer) has him feeling like he should help me out, so he had his painter call me and inform me that "S-2" is funding the graphic work on the KZ. Good friends are hard to come by.
I don't think it will be dyno'd... so I seriously need some suggestions at jetting size.
Main_____
Pilot_____
It is in running order now, just rich. I have a track day scheduled for the end of April. I hope to get it out there for the shakedown. Will post photo's of that.
Jetting !! I have not jetted a KZ since 1989. seems like it was a 122 main, but that is all I remember.
Stock cams, Kerker, 998 bore. Should be a black and white recipe out ther amongst all of you?
PLEASE PLEASE ??
MAIN__________
PILOT_________
just want to get in the ballpark. I will tune it on the track.
Replied by dsmking on topic Is this GSXR Swingarm/Wheel going to work?
04 Apr 2013 00:03
dsmking
Some one put the wrong tire on the 09 rim, should be running a 180, if yore geting an 06-09 swing arm the tire /rim will fit, un less you bought a rear rim off a 1k rear rim, if that's the case you will need a 1k swing arm the 1k rim is to wide for an 600-750 swing arm. If you're interested in a swing arm off an 07 gsxr 750 shoot me a PM
650ed
Welcome aboard!
Here are some tips that you may find helpful:
Many newbies and not so newbies run into the same problems or issues with their bikes which could be easily avoided with a little preparation. Here are a couple recommendations that I hope you will find useful.
Before riding your KZ you should take a little time to become familiar with it. Simple things like checking the oil, tire pressures, etc. are explained in the Kawasaki Owner's Manual. If you bike didn't come with one (they normally are in a little holder on the bottom of the seat) you can usually find one on eBay - be sure to get one for your exact year/model.
MANUAL
You really should buy the Kawasaki Service Manual for your bike. The factory service manual provides instructions on the various maintenance procedures and schedules for your bike, procedures for diagnosing problems, proper torque values for the various fasteners (VERY IMPORTANT), and insight into how each system on your bike works even if you are not repairing that system. Studying the manual before you attempt performing service on your bike will impart an understanding of the system you are working on which will increase the odds of success.
The manuals usually are readily available for most models on eBay and other sources; but be sure to get one that has your specific year and model in it as there are differences between the various models. I do not recommend Clymers, Haynes, or other aftermarket manuals as I have seen instances where they provide inaccurate advice. You may decide to use those to supplement the factory manual, but in my opinion they are not a suitable substitute. If you have trouble finding one for your model ask us to help.
TOOLS
Before reaching for that Phillips screwdriver to do a repair or maintenance PLEASE do yourself a big favor and visit the following link. It explains the fact that Phillips screwdriver tips will wreck the crosshead screws (they are not Phillips - they are JIS screws) on your KZ650 and tells how to easily deal with this issue so it will not be a problem.
kzrider.com/forum/21-tools/532335-budget...ewdriver-tips#532335
Before reaching for that wrench or ratchet consider the following. The bolts are steel, but your engine and front forks are aluminum. The bolts are much tougher than the aluminum and if over tightened will strip the aluminum threads. Although these can be repaired, preventing damage by applying proper torque will save you grief, time, and money. Tightening fasteners properly requires torque wrenches. Various vendors, including Snap-on, CDI, Sears, etc., market torque wrenches. The two most popular types are the bar type and micrometer type. Either will work, but the micrometer type is a bit easier to use, especially if you are tightening several fasteners with the same torque - such as cylinder head covers. You will need a torque wrench calibrated in INCH POUNDS for many of the bolts. You will also need a torque wrench calibrated in FOOT POUNDS for the larger bolts. Don't try to use the foot pounds wrench on the smaller bolts as it will not be sensitive enough at low torque settings to provide accurate torque. There are many fasteners that require low torque. These include such things as 6mm oil pan bolts, cylinder head cover bolts, etc. for which the torque in 61-78 inch pounds. These low torque bolts require a wrench that is accurate at low settings and this wrench should be graduated in inch pounds. In addition, there are numerous high torque fasteners such as the front axle nuts (51 - 65 foot pounds) or swing arm pivot shaft nuts (58 - 87 foot pounds). These require a wrench that is accurate at higher settings; this wrench should be graduated in foot pounds. Using the proper torque wrenches to correctly tighten fasteners will help prevent damage and contribute to a safe bike. The Kawasaki Service Manual will list the various torque specs for the bolts. I suggest you get the manual before buying the torque wrenches so you can decide which wrenches best meet the torque specs.
Consider buying a can of Kroil penetrating oil and use it to soak stubborn fasteners for a couple days before trying to loosen them. Remember, the original screws and bolts were installed on your bike when Jimmy Carter was President, so many of them may be hard to remove. Kroil can be bought online, at guns shows, and at some other venues.
MOTOR OIL
The ingredients in oils have changed over the years. For example, today's Castrol GTX oil (and pretty much all other AUTOMOBILE oil) is not the same as it was in the 1980's. Back then it worked great in KZ bikes. But, things have changed. Early AUTOMOBILE oils contained zinc phosphorus compounds (ZDDP) to protect engine components from metal to metal contact. This was good for engines, but it was found to be destructive to catalytic converters. Consequently, in AUTOMOBILE oils ZDDP was virtually eliminated and replaced with different chemistry generically referred to as "Friction Modifiers." These work fine and offer good protection for normal AUTOMOBILE engines. However, today's AUTOMOBILE oil "Friction Modifiers" are destructive to wet clutches. KZ bikes (and many other brands) have wet clutches. As a result of these oil chemistry changes a distinction needed to be made between those oils which are suitable for wet clutches and those which are not. That distinction was documented by the Japanese Engine Oil Standards Implementation Panel (JASO). JASO developed a number of different oil specifications for different applications. The specifications that apply to 4 stroke motorcycles fall under the "4T Specifications." Within the 4T specifications the JASO MA class oils are specifically formulated for 4 stroke motorcycles with wet clutches.
There are synthetic, semi-synthetic, and non-synthetic oils that meet the JASO-MA standard and any of them will work ok. However, using oils that are not designated as meeting the JASO-MA standard is destructive to KZ clutches.
Ed
Here are some tips that you may find helpful:
Many newbies and not so newbies run into the same problems or issues with their bikes which could be easily avoided with a little preparation. Here are a couple recommendations that I hope you will find useful.
Before riding your KZ you should take a little time to become familiar with it. Simple things like checking the oil, tire pressures, etc. are explained in the Kawasaki Owner's Manual. If you bike didn't come with one (they normally are in a little holder on the bottom of the seat) you can usually find one on eBay - be sure to get one for your exact year/model.
MANUAL
You really should buy the Kawasaki Service Manual for your bike. The factory service manual provides instructions on the various maintenance procedures and schedules for your bike, procedures for diagnosing problems, proper torque values for the various fasteners (VERY IMPORTANT), and insight into how each system on your bike works even if you are not repairing that system. Studying the manual before you attempt performing service on your bike will impart an understanding of the system you are working on which will increase the odds of success.
The manuals usually are readily available for most models on eBay and other sources; but be sure to get one that has your specific year and model in it as there are differences between the various models. I do not recommend Clymers, Haynes, or other aftermarket manuals as I have seen instances where they provide inaccurate advice. You may decide to use those to supplement the factory manual, but in my opinion they are not a suitable substitute. If you have trouble finding one for your model ask us to help.
TOOLS
Before reaching for that Phillips screwdriver to do a repair or maintenance PLEASE do yourself a big favor and visit the following link. It explains the fact that Phillips screwdriver tips will wreck the crosshead screws (they are not Phillips - they are JIS screws) on your KZ650 and tells how to easily deal with this issue so it will not be a problem.
kzrider.com/forum/21-tools/532335-budget...ewdriver-tips#532335
Before reaching for that wrench or ratchet consider the following. The bolts are steel, but your engine and front forks are aluminum. The bolts are much tougher than the aluminum and if over tightened will strip the aluminum threads. Although these can be repaired, preventing damage by applying proper torque will save you grief, time, and money. Tightening fasteners properly requires torque wrenches. Various vendors, including Snap-on, CDI, Sears, etc., market torque wrenches. The two most popular types are the bar type and micrometer type. Either will work, but the micrometer type is a bit easier to use, especially if you are tightening several fasteners with the same torque - such as cylinder head covers. You will need a torque wrench calibrated in INCH POUNDS for many of the bolts. You will also need a torque wrench calibrated in FOOT POUNDS for the larger bolts. Don't try to use the foot pounds wrench on the smaller bolts as it will not be sensitive enough at low torque settings to provide accurate torque. There are many fasteners that require low torque. These include such things as 6mm oil pan bolts, cylinder head cover bolts, etc. for which the torque in 61-78 inch pounds. These low torque bolts require a wrench that is accurate at low settings and this wrench should be graduated in inch pounds. In addition, there are numerous high torque fasteners such as the front axle nuts (51 - 65 foot pounds) or swing arm pivot shaft nuts (58 - 87 foot pounds). These require a wrench that is accurate at higher settings; this wrench should be graduated in foot pounds. Using the proper torque wrenches to correctly tighten fasteners will help prevent damage and contribute to a safe bike. The Kawasaki Service Manual will list the various torque specs for the bolts. I suggest you get the manual before buying the torque wrenches so you can decide which wrenches best meet the torque specs.
Consider buying a can of Kroil penetrating oil and use it to soak stubborn fasteners for a couple days before trying to loosen them. Remember, the original screws and bolts were installed on your bike when Jimmy Carter was President, so many of them may be hard to remove. Kroil can be bought online, at guns shows, and at some other venues.
MOTOR OIL
The ingredients in oils have changed over the years. For example, today's Castrol GTX oil (and pretty much all other AUTOMOBILE oil) is not the same as it was in the 1980's. Back then it worked great in KZ bikes. But, things have changed. Early AUTOMOBILE oils contained zinc phosphorus compounds (ZDDP) to protect engine components from metal to metal contact. This was good for engines, but it was found to be destructive to catalytic converters. Consequently, in AUTOMOBILE oils ZDDP was virtually eliminated and replaced with different chemistry generically referred to as "Friction Modifiers." These work fine and offer good protection for normal AUTOMOBILE engines. However, today's AUTOMOBILE oil "Friction Modifiers" are destructive to wet clutches. KZ bikes (and many other brands) have wet clutches. As a result of these oil chemistry changes a distinction needed to be made between those oils which are suitable for wet clutches and those which are not. That distinction was documented by the Japanese Engine Oil Standards Implementation Panel (JASO). JASO developed a number of different oil specifications for different applications. The specifications that apply to 4 stroke motorcycles fall under the "4T Specifications." Within the 4T specifications the JASO MA class oils are specifically formulated for 4 stroke motorcycles with wet clutches.
There are synthetic, semi-synthetic, and non-synthetic oils that meet the JASO-MA standard and any of them will work ok. However, using oils that are not designated as meeting the JASO-MA standard is destructive to KZ clutches.
Ed
Replied by 531blackbanshee on topic Is this GSXR Swingarm/Wheel going to work?
01 Apr 2013 13:39
531blackbanshee
it will take an offset countershaft sprocket to get passed the wheel.
maybe have to clearance the frame as well.
leon
maybe have to clearance the frame as well.
leon
Replied by badrhino on topic Is this GSXR Swingarm/Wheel going to work?
01 Apr 2013 01:24
badrhino
I hope the rear wheel I got is going to work it is a 6 inch rim with a 190 tire on it. I thought I read somewhere that this rim may be too wide. 
Replied by Kawiman80 on topic Tear down and rebuild form G to B Frame
31 Mar 2013 23:10
Kawiman80
Did more cleaning and painting on the motor today. Changed bushings in the swingarm also. They fitmuch better. Brake stay is short as is the axle.
Talked to Les Holt and he's gonna check out what he has.
Lots of progress today!
Replied by Hollywoodmx on topic Is this GSXR Swingarm/Wheel going to work?
31 Mar 2013 12:35
Hollywoodmx
badrhino wrote: Thanks, yeah I did stumble across that site.
Just yesterday I was looking for an 18t from sprocket for my tr-1 and low an behold a xs650 heritage special had the same dimensions, couldn't find anything. Did not find it on any forum or anything just used the JT specs to find it.
Replied by testarossa on topic 1975 KZ 900 , ZRX Swingarm, 89 GSXR front end
31 Mar 2013 10:41
testarossa
Well you know I approve of the Shelby stripe.
I sure hope you get your bike on the road this year.
I sure hope you get your bike on the road this year.
Replied by z1wiz on topic Is this GSXR Swingarm/Wheel going to work?
30 Mar 2013 23:53
z1wiz
call 800-782-8200 or
www.sprocketspecialists.com/
Replied by tk11b40 on topic 1975 KZ 900 , ZRX Swingarm, 89 GSXR front end
30 Mar 2013 22:39
tk11b40
The Gixxer has a strange carb issue that I am working through.
I finished another project.. brakes and stuff.... on Yamaha SRX 600 for a buddy in Washington State.
My neighbor (he owns the Gixxer) has offered to help paint some striping on the KZ, we will be putting a "shelby stripe" across the top of the tank and tail section. Lokks much like the ducati Monster paint
The Bike is still sitting in the shop, and now that I am getting some graphics put on it, I will be picking up the bike, Dyno run or not.
Spring is in the air. This will be the 6th or 7th time I have said "I think it will be running this summer".
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