Search Results (Searched for: gs swing arm)
Replied by 750 R1 on topic Kiwi GPZ
09 Jan 2022 01:13
750 R1
I was looking at a Rickman frame the other day and noticed the gap between the pivot and the rear of the engine, that's where that thought came from. I know its probably sacrilege modifying a Rickman frame but it was the first thing I thought of, they have a rather short swingarm....Had a good measure up last night and things aren't too far out. Need to space the front sprocket out by 5mm and I am lined up. I like the idea of moving the swingarm pivot but I am not molesting the frame too much. Will rebuild the original motor for it one day and may put that back in.Looks like if you get the swingarm angle right the chain line will work out ok. I'd be tempted to move the swingarm pivot closer to the engine now there's all that room there, a nice small wheelbase would be fun and speed up handling, you'd have heaps of options with swingarms too as length would be less of a problem.......
Replied by larriken on topic Kiwi GPZ
08 Jan 2022 23:39
larriken
Had a good measure up last night and things aren't too far out. Need to space the front sprocket out by 5mm and I am lined up. I like the idea of moving the swingarm pivot but I am not molesting the frame too much. Will rebuild the original motor for it one day and may put that back in.Looks like if you get the swingarm angle right the chain line will work out ok. I'd be tempted to move the swingarm pivot closer to the engine now there's all that room there, a nice small wheelbase would be fun and speed up handling, you'd have heaps of options with swingarms too as length would be less of a problem.......
Replied by hardrockminer on topic Unable to locate a rebuild kit
05 Jan 2022 12:25
hardrockminer
Safety checks first. Brake pads, fluid level, all the signals, brake light and head light. To bleed the brake by hand....fill your reservoir, loosen the bleed nipple, pump the brake and hold while tightening the bleed nipple. Release the brake lever and test the brake. If still soft then loosen the bleed nipple again. Repeat as often as necessary.
Other things to change....oil and filter, air filter and grease the swingarm.
Other things to check....chain wear, sprockets, tires, sparkplugs.
The best carb kits are made by Keyster, in Japan. You can get them through Z1 Enterprises, or directly from Keyster.
Oh...let's see some photos of your bike!
Other things to change....oil and filter, air filter and grease the swingarm.
Other things to check....chain wear, sprockets, tires, sparkplugs.
The best carb kits are made by Keyster, in Japan. You can get them through Z1 Enterprises, or directly from Keyster.
Oh...let's see some photos of your bike!
Replied by Stereordinary on topic Got Rear-Ended Yesterday
15 Dec 2021 18:25
Stereordinary
I get what you’re saying. I wish it was easier to value the bike. On the one hand I only paid $1400 for it, and the “agreed value” with my insurance company is only $2000. But that’s just based on what I paid and that it’s 31 years old. How do you truly put a value on a bike that was essentially custom from the factory? How do you explain that even if they gave me the full amount minus my deductible ($1625), that there is no way I could purchase a similar spec and quality bike with that much?
I mean, name or show me any other bike that I could purchase right now with 49 HP, 40nm of torque, dual semi-floating front disc brakes, 4-into-1 exhaust, 3-way adjustable shocks on a box-section aluminum swingarm with eccentric chain adjuster, and tapered roller headset bearings all stock from the factory. And even if we don’t get so specific, something that is close in power and on a par build-wise. I know I’m preaching to the coir here, but my point is, this bike’s “agreed value” doesn’t reflect what it really is. It’s rare, so people don’t know what they are, thus they don’t sell for a lot, but that doesn’t mean it’s some cheap bike.
If the adjuster says it’s repairable, I’m gonna insist that it gets repaired completely. If they say it’s totaled I want enough to replace it with a truly comparable bike.
I mean, name or show me any other bike that I could purchase right now with 49 HP, 40nm of torque, dual semi-floating front disc brakes, 4-into-1 exhaust, 3-way adjustable shocks on a box-section aluminum swingarm with eccentric chain adjuster, and tapered roller headset bearings all stock from the factory. And even if we don’t get so specific, something that is close in power and on a par build-wise. I know I’m preaching to the coir here, but my point is, this bike’s “agreed value” doesn’t reflect what it really is. It’s rare, so people don’t know what they are, thus they don’t sell for a lot, but that doesn’t mean it’s some cheap bike.
If the adjuster says it’s repairable, I’m gonna insist that it gets repaired completely. If they say it’s totaled I want enough to replace it with a truly comparable bike.
jowek70
Nice project, you may want to consider setting the motor further back. I know someone who had an early GSXR1100 motor in a Harris that was built for a Z1000 motor. The front sprocket is so far ahead of the swing arm pivot that you will need to run the chain loose to avoid the suspension movement being affected as the swing arm goes past level (the longest point)
Motor is simply laying in the frame in these photos. I have to get the mounts made up which will lift it into a much better position. Winter project for my friend with a 3d printer to help me out before I have the mounts made out of steel and welded to the frame.
Replied by Webbie1 on topic Where do you start?
08 Dec 2021 06:46
Webbie1
In my mind, it seems the way to do it is to disassemble everything, and refurb/refinish pieces as they come off. Finally ending with the frame, with a bunch of refurbed / refinished parts to put back on it after the frame gets blasted and coated (paint or powder).
Have you done this before with a motorcycle (100% tear down and restore). It can take years to finish a project like that, and many many folks never make it to the end before losing interest. It seems like it's already been in your hands for a few years, as you mention.
Personally, I would focus on the basic mechanical function and safety components, and then ride it. If you really love it, go all out. If not, you have a good ready to ride bike that should be easy to sell. If the first thing you do it create a giant mount of parts, it's a ton of time and work to get out of the project. Even parting it out is a ton of work. It's much easier to sell a fully assembled bike.
I've never been hung up looks. I focus on function. As you already have done, I have repainted many rusty battery boxes. And you already started on the carbs.
Assuming you think the engine internals are not damaged, I would do a valve adjustment and call the engine done for now. 19k is low for these engines. My Z1R has 45k miles on it and runs great.
I would focus on the following:
* steering head bearings
* swing arm bearings
* front brake system
* rear brake system
* tires
* carbs
* valve adjustment
* timing check
The only other thing I'd look at is to check the wiring harness for obvious damage or hacking/modifications, just to make sure there aren't any real obvious issues.
When that's done just ride it, warts and all, and see if it's a keeper.
Well, the engine turns over, with the starter or with the kick start lever. I put a compression tester on it and the numbers were lower than expected, but the bike is definitely NOT warmed up and it's been sitting for over 20 years. So not sure if those numbers are really meaningful at all. It was running when he put it away....I bought this from a co-worker / friend, so I can trust the history that I'm getting on it.
Warner
Replied by seanbarney41 on topic Where do you start?
07 Dec 2021 13:21
seanbarney41
In my mind, it seems the way to do it is to disassemble everything, and refurb/refinish pieces as they come off. Finally ending with the frame, with a bunch of refurbed / refinished parts to put back on it after the frame gets blasted and coated (paint or powder).
Have you done this before with a motorcycle (100% tear down and restore). It can take years to finish a project like that, and many many folks never make it to the end before losing interest. It seems like it's already been in your hands for a few years, as you mention.
Personally, I would focus on the basic mechanical function and safety components, and then ride it. If you really love it, go all out. If not, you have a good ready to ride bike that should be easy to sell. If the first thing you do it create a giant mount of parts, it's a ton of time and work to get out of the project. Even parting it out is a ton of work. It's much easier to sell a fully assembled bike.
I've never been hung up looks. I focus on function. As you already have done, I have repainted many rusty battery boxes. And you already started on the carbs.
Assuming you think the engine internals are not damaged, I would do a valve adjustment and call the engine done for now. 19k is low for these engines. My Z1R has 45k miles on it and runs great.
I would focus on the following:
* steering head bearings
* swing arm bearings
* front brake system
* rear brake system
* tires
* carbs
* valve adjustment
* timing check
The only other thing I'd look at is to check the wiring harness for obvious damage or hacking/modifications, just to make sure there aren't any real obvious issues.
When that's done just ride it, warts and all, and see if it's a keeper.
This is bonafide gospel right here.
DOHC
In my mind, it seems the way to do it is to disassemble everything, and refurb/refinish pieces as they come off. Finally ending with the frame, with a bunch of refurbed / refinished parts to put back on it after the frame gets blasted and coated (paint or powder).
Have you done this before with a motorcycle (100% tear down and restore). It can take years to finish a project like that, and many many folks never make it to the end before losing interest. It seems like it's already been in your hands for a few years, as you mention.
Personally, I would focus on the basic mechanical function and safety components, and then ride it. If you really love it, go all out. If not, you have a good ready to ride bike that should be easy to sell. If the first thing you do it create a giant mount of parts, it's a ton of time and work to get out of the project. Even parting it out is a ton of work. It's much easier to sell a fully assembled bike.
I've never been hung up looks. I focus on function. As you already have done, I have repainted many rusty battery boxes. And you already started on the carbs.
Assuming you think the engine internals are not damaged, I would do a valve adjustment and call the engine done for now. 19k is low for these engines. My Z1R has 45k miles on it and runs great.
I would focus on the following:
* steering head bearings
* swing arm bearings
* front brake system
* rear brake system
* tires
* carbs
* valve adjustment
* timing check
The only other thing I'd look at is to check the wiring harness for obvious damage or hacking/modifications, just to make sure there aren't any real obvious issues.
When that's done just ride it, warts and all, and see if it's a keeper.
Replied by zedhead on topic GPz750A3 Unitrak - last of the air-cooled?
07 Dec 2021 07:23
zedhead
I was also thinking about making some 'period correct' modifications while I was refreshing this bike.... things like a fork brace, braced swinging arm etc. It's already got a Harris 4:1 exhaust tat needs some refurbishment, and I have an aftermarket Japanese 4:1 as well tat is in slightly better condition, and of course it has the twin headlght conversion, but I was wondering what other mods might be suitable, and of benefit? Fork internals upgrade? Frame bracing? Anyone?
Replied by hardrockminer on topic 1978 KZ650 Bike Build
06 Dec 2021 17:51
hardrockminer
I've been stuck for a long time trying to get the swingarm bolt out. I finally had to get a shop to cut it out, so things are beginning to move a bit. Frame painted on the weekend. Engine in the frame today.
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