ok. so I guess ill have to use jackshaft swingarm and sprockets. I kind of figured that. thanks

royalratch wrote: Got some measurements to help select the right shock length as I want to order some new ones, possibly built to spec.

Here is the bike sat dead flat under its own weight - the changes from stock Z650 are 17" wheels, 06 ZX6R USD forks and pretty regular tyre profiles. The rear 'shock' plank length here is 300mm.

There are no Ohlins options for a Z650 and certainly not for a modified one - only for stock Z900/Z1/Z1000 and some 750s / 500s.

So, the Ohlins S36P KA140 is 350mm eye to eye. That's 50mm too long so allowing 25mm static sag (under bikes own weight) means it'll be jacked up 25mm at the rear. Can I dial that out by adding preload? Or is it too much?

Is a custom built set worth the bother?

Cheers all!

I run both my road racers very kicked up at the back to sharpen steering and add ground clearance, that means around +40-50mm (see pic). thing is that increases swingarm angle and you start running into issues with chain tension changing a lot during suspension travel and chain rubbing on the top of the swingarm .

The first problem is solvable by adding a tensioning wheel in the lower run (like buells have).
But if rubs on top unedr tension, not so good..... that petty much limits how long a shock you can fit. make 350mm "wooden shocks", temporally fit a chain and check if thats the situation. if it rubs then you could unscrew the adjusters, but not by that much.

Dont buy the shocks unless they are willing to fit springs with the right rate for your bike weight. z900/1000 rates are bound to be way stiff for ya and that CANT be fixed with the preload adjuster...

tk11b40 wrote: ...had the thing running several times, but each time something strange happens with the carbs, this seal or that needle, etc.
Gonna spend the money on new carbs, and 900 bucks is a lot, so the more info the better....

New carbs also have seals and needles, etc., that likely will sooner or later require some attention.

It's often the case that a set of carbs may be returned to serviceable condition, and perhaps at relatively small cost.

What's wrong with the carbs at hand?

Good Fortune!

Excellent feedback MORE MORE MORE !!

Thank you, I did not know they made noise at idle, and can see that making me nutty. I am not against the flat slides yet, especially if easier to tune.

This forum is so cool, almost anything you can think of has been done already by somebody on the forum. I finally have the title, and just need carbs, I have had the thing running several times, but each time something strange happens with the carbs, this seal or that needle, etc.
Gonna spend the money on new carbs, and 900 bucks is a lot, so the more info the better. I will read the comparison.

Thank you !!

Hi all my bikes in storage at the mo , but i need to know the swinging arm bolt dia . its a 79 kz1000 ltd . trying to get my gsxr srad swinging arm top hats and stuff made . if you could help out many thanks

I bought a new set of 34 flatslides and couldn't stand the clacking. I think better tuning would have limited the noise but I just gave up and went back to my 33 smoothbores. I really didn't like the sound. My head is ported and I have larger valves and I hear that makes the clacking worse...don't know. I bought a nice set of 35mm Keihin roundslide smoothbores that I hope to try soon. Lots of others love the flatslides...and they are supposed to be much easier to tune.

Just wanted to give you my $.02

531blackbanshee wrote: ... flatslide reportedly "clack"at idle do to the slide getting pulled to the front of the slide bores by intake pressure....

For more info and comparisons about Rattlekunis and Clackslides:

www.kzrider.com/forum/3-carburetor/22013...l=component&type=raw

69.46.28.106/forum/3-carburetor/413628-w...l=component&type=raw

Good Fortune!

either are a major improvement.
do you like the old skool look =roundslides
or the modern high tech look = flatslides

to me that is the main thing.

flatslide reportedly "clack"at idle do to the slide getting pulled to the front of the slide bores by intake pressure .
hth,
leon

Question:

Flatslide or smoothbores?
I am ready to purchase one or the other, any of you have a recommendation?

I bought one of these brand new in 1981.
One of my favorite rides, I guess because it was my first true street bike. The engines are bullet proof, the charging system should be checked. (free if you follow the manual and have an OHM meter)
Adjust the valve clearance. (free if you have a manual)
I used to rev mine to about 6000 RPMS with the clutch feathering, then let it all out at once, (drag start) and lean way forward and smoke the tire in first gear, as long as the pavement was smooth and shiny it would do it over and over. Never replaced the clutch or had any other mechanical problems.
I had charging issues at about 13,000 miles, but if I remember correctly it was a bare wire somewhere. Takes a few minutes, but well worth the time.

A good chain and sprockets are/ is mandatory. 125 bucks
Brakes are easy to rebuild and not too expensive, at least rebuild the front. The rear is a drum so it either works or does not. about 75 bucks at Bike bandit
brake pads 35 bucks
Tires are very important, new tires. 300 bucks.
Fork seals 25 bucks if needed, but is good to do anyway.

I rode mine all over the west coast, in the early 80's once road from Seattle to San Francisco in 18 hours, that was a long haul. I got rid of the stock "Bucko bars", and put a lower set on made the bike more comfortable. I have owned at least 15 other bikes since, currently own a Ducati, and am building a KZ,

www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/274097...imit=20&limitstart=0

I still love the 440 memories, it was so much fun.

500 or so dollars worth of maint and the bike is safe to ride for a long time. Enjoy.
By the way that header must be very rare indeed, I bet it sounds cool. The bike looks good too.