Mark !!

Thank you thank you. The 20 amp ting will make me sleep better. the fuse blew after the first hard pull on the throttle, so if it supposed to be twenty amps, there may have just been a little too much juice for the 15 amp.

I was just dam happy to ride it after all this time. So I put it away. The odd thing is the fuse took some time to burn, the bike sputtered twice then quit. Like a real slow burn through.

Here is a photo of the burndt fuse... I am sooo glad you are still around. You have a wealth of knowledge.

mark1122 wrote: check to see if the fuse burnt in the normal fashion(across the fuse link) or if it burnt a leg off.

I'm betting there will be an explanation but what causes it to fail in one way versus the other?

Congrats on the first ride. :woohoo: :woohoo:
the stock fuse size is a 20 amp. also check to see if the fuse burnt in the normal fashion(across the fuse link) or if it burnt a leg off.

This is the main use from the battery, I am wondering what the rest of you use, it may be that I should have a 30 amp fuse here.

Not sure.

Well
Installed the flatslides, synched them. It started right up. The carbs feel right I think the jetting is dam close.
I rode it around the neighborhood, as I do not have lights on it yet.
It runs. Rode it around for ten or fifteen minutes. This is the first time I have actually ridden this thing since the project started. Feels really good. vibration is minimal, the bike pulls hard. It was awesome.

Then I blew a 15 amp fuse. Ok well we made a huge step forward today. I guess it is time to put lights on it and make sure there are no bare hot wires left over.

Weeeeeeeeeeeeeee !!

I wouldn't bother with frame bracing, the stock GPz750 frame is pretty stout. If you already have the 810 kit I would buy a full set of piston rings and have your cylinders bored and honed for the pistons. Can't comment on the 18" front tire I run stock 19". I have ridden my 82 GPZ750 track days very aggressively. It has the stock frame and is powered by a highly modded 82 GPZ1100 engine. It handles really well and the only changes I have made to the suspension is a ZRX swingarm and shocks and the front end off a n 82 GPz1100. The thing is ungodly fast and handles really well.

By beating the bolt throught he powder coating you probably flaked some of the coating off and shoved it into the swingarm bearings. I would remove the bolt then clean the bearings and the coating off the inside of the bolt holes.

When installing the swing arm back onto the frame after the frame being powdercoated the diameter of the bolt hole was smaller(due to the coating) i really had to BEAT the bolt through, could i be in for problems due to the bearings in the swing arm perhaps being damaged? should i remove it and buff excess coating off the inside on the hole?
also had the same with the top shock absorber stubs, i buffed the coating off and bingo, no problem going on.

Leason learnt now, any others i come across i will remove excess powdercoating
Im just worried about the bearings, but it seems to move freely enough, but should i bother removing again?

I believe I have it beat! I have an Aluminum GS1100 swingarm and a KZ550 mag wheel with drum brake. The swingarm has a 20mm axle so I got KZ1000 bearings. the only part not 20mm yet is the brake cover. I'm either going to drill the one I have to 20mm or see if a KZ 900-1000 cover fits the wheel

Not necessarily what needs to be done first, you need to do a bunch of things: change the oil and filter, squirt oil down the cylinders and turn the engine over with the kicker, slowly, a few times. Install new plugs, clean carbs, remove air filter and look for mouse nests, same with the exhaust. Lube cables. Unplug all the terminals, clean them and spray down with WD40 then use some dielectric grease. New battery (yes you need it to run properly) and you should be able to start it up. Iwouldn't even try running the bike without doing all those things thoroughly. It will save time later on if it's not running right, you can cross all that stuff off the list.

Anything after that is all chassis: tires, service suspension and swingarm pivot, etc.