TOPIC:

Rustyhama wrote: I'm after a specific brand / type, I understand synthetic is a no no, I was just hoping you had a tried and true, go to option that was readily available in NZ. Please and thank you.

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Not true. Full synthetic, partial-synthetic, or non-synthetic all work fine IF they carry the "JASO_MA" certification.

KZ bikes need oil which is suitable for wet clutches. That distinction was defined by the Japanese Engine Oil Standards Implementation Panel (JASO), and can be noted by oils that meet the "4T” (4 cycle) specification, MA (wet clutch) classification. These oils, which include various synthetic, semi-synthetic, and non-synthetic oils, are sold as specific motorcycle oils. Another type of oil which works well in our bikes is diesel engine oil. These oils are governed by the API (American Petroleum Institute) CI-4/CJ-4 spec and don’t contain clutch-damaging EC additives. You can even purchase Shell Rotella oil which holds a “JASO-MA” certification assuring it will get along well with your wet clutch. All of these newer oils have a reduced ZDDP level too (about 1/3 less than before instead of ½ like the auto oils) but the substitute additives get along better with our bikes needs than automotive oil. Oils that do not hold the JASO-MA rating have either failed the wet clutch test or have not been tested for use in engines with wet clutches.

Personally, I use Mobil-1 Racing 4T full synthetic oil; I've been using it for 9 years and it works great. UNLIKE the Mobil-1 automobile oils it carries the JASO_MA certification so it is suitable for wet clutches. Ed

650ed wrote:

Rustyhama wrote: I'm after a specific brand / type, I understand synthetic is a no no, I was just hoping you had a tried and true, go to option that was readily available in NZ. Please and thank you.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Not true. Full synthetic, partial-synthetic, or non-synthetic all work fine IF they carry the "JASO_MA" certification.

KZ bikes need oil which is suitable for wet clutches. That distinction was defined by the Japanese Engine Oil Standards Implementation Panel (JASO), and can be noted by oils that meet the "4T” (4 cycle) specification, MA (wet clutch) classification. These oils, which include various synthetic, semi-synthetic, and non-synthetic oils, are sold as specific motorcycle oils. Another type of oil which works well in our bikes is diesel engine oil. These oils are governed by the API (American Petroleum Institute) CI-4/CJ-4 spec and don’t contain clutch-damaging EC additives. You can even purchase Shell Rotella oil which holds a “JASO-MA” certification assuring it will get along well with your wet clutch. All of these newer oils have a reduced ZDDP level too (about 1/3 less than before instead of ½ like the auto oils) but the substitute additives get along better with our bikes needs than automotive oil. Oils that do not hold the JASO-MA rating have either failed the wet clutch test or have not been tested for use in engines with wet clutches.

Personally, I use Mobil-1 Racing 4T full synthetic oil; I've been using it for 9 years and it works great. UNLIKE the Mobil-1 automobile oils it carries the JASO_MA certification so it is suitable for wet clutches. Ed

Legend reply! Thanks Ed.

Ya, that was a click-n-save.

Yep, I'm down with the diesel engine oil, Shell Rimula (same as Rotella) for general usage. I was interested in ideas for the initial break-in period as per this guide. www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Thanks for all the responses, sorry Larriken for hijacking your thread!

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oh btw shit hot victory !

i would love to have go on that thing!

leon

Rustyhama wrote: Hey Larriken, I've been meaning to ask. What oil do you use for engine break in after a rebuild?

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His question is about break in oil. I have yet to see someone recommend full synthetic for break in.

531blackbanshee wrote: oh btw shit hot victory !

i would love to have go on that thing!

leon

Thanks mate, action shot of Tony the painter (left) and me (right) in action!

Started sorting out the disc rotors. Attacked the rear one first. Taped, sanded, and painted, then back on the rim. Job's done!





Remember those rusty rotors I scored for the front............................



Here they are now after a bit of scrub and a bit of love. Just need to get the inners sanded tomorrow and get them painted.

While I was on a role I thought I should get off my arse and fit the swingarm that has been sitting there looking at me for ages. Bam! It's in! Should have done that a while back but just been a bit busy with work and other peoples bikes lol. Have changed my mind about ten times on rear shocks and currently don't have a set. I would still like to go with a piggy back style shock and still pondering the best way to lay down the shocks a bit more but I will keep working on this one.

nice job on the rotors!
they actually grew hair eh? good save,or shave as it we're

arm looks good in there.

are you wanting to lay the upper shock mounts forward like the sanctuary guys etc.do?

leon

531blackbanshee wrote: nice job on the rotors!
they actually grew hair eh? good save,or shave as it we're

arm looks good in there.

are you wanting to lay the upper shock mounts forward like the sanctuary guys etc.do?

leon

Still think I will do it by going backwards with a bracket off the rear of the swingarm. Not 100% yet but will get a bit more serious once I have the bike up on wheels.

Anyone remember that horrible looking looking MKII of mine that I swapped with Graeme Crosby? It's coming back to life.............
www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/moto...ction-1146560584.htm