Clutch's 1982 KZ750 E3 Cafe

clutch wrote:

loudhvx wrote: It is very common for Dyna S ignitions to fail in an intermittent manner.

Just found this on another thread. It seemed in this case, the coil shorted out and damaged the Dyna-S. I have new coils and new Dyna-S both with less than 1k miles on them...but I guess anything is possible...

Anything is possible look for the easy stuff first my dad always said
Check for drops in voltage as the Dyna does consume some power to opperate
check you plugwires visually and resistance.

my voltage regulator acts Quirky. and ofcoarse all coil connections, replace plugs if you have a set.
I'm with you it seems ignition related.

Not sure if I mentioned this, but it only seems to happen once the bike is completely warmed up. I've been reading a lot of info on the web about this all day, and it seems to be very common for the 2/3 side to fail, only after warm, and that is my issue. I will be contacting Dyna to see what they have to say for themselves (LOL)...I just hope it's still under warranty (think so).

Those Dyna guys are great when it comes to waranty the one that came on my bike was the old dyna 3 they dont make anymmore they shipped me a new fyna S for like 70 bucks if I remember right.

Mine was doing the same thing and I believe it is fixed
i got it to do it and kept it running pulled the tank up and giggled wires til I found that the bullet connector to the coil was not making perfect connection after it warmed up. The way I had it wire tied was actually pulling on it and when the bike warmed up it wouldnt make connection

I have only ridden it about 100 miles or so just guessing since and it hasnt done it since. I am hoping that its fixed. let me know what Dyna says.

The guys there are great they all have old school KZ'z

What a freaking story!

So I decided to run down to work to pick up my paycheck. Since my truck is still in the shop, I had no choice but to take the bike. Halfway there, I was only running on 2 cylinders, so I stopped at a gas station and coaxed the bike to run on all 4. I let it idle for a few minutes because there was a SERIOUS gas smell, and some lovely white smoke coming out of the exhaust. When that subsided, I rode the remainder of the way to work on all 4...probably because I was keeping the rpm's low and being very easy and smooth with the throttle.

After picking up my check, I started home, and to my surprise was still running on all 4. About a mile or 2 past the gas station I stopped at on my way there, I ran out of gas. While trying to figure out what the heck I was going to do, a guy on a Harley Softtail stopped to make sure I was ok. I explained that I ran out of gas, so he told me to grab my helmet and hop on. He took me to the gas station (yep, the same one), where I attempted to buy a gas can and some gas but had my card declined (hey...I said I was picking up my check!). The guy paid for both for me and after I fell over trying to get back on the Softtail, and then made it back on, he took me back to my bike. I offered to pay him back, but he refused saying it was no big deal (about $10). I will never talk bad about Harley guys again!

So...a gallon of gas and I'm on my way again. I started out on all 4, and then back down to 2 (what the heck!?!?). A few times it would jump back to 4, and then down to 2 again. I limped the bike home and got her running on all 4 again. Let her idle for a bit and then put her away.

So I will be pulling the tank off (again) sometime soon to double check all my wiring. Ramtough may have a point with a bad connector/connection. If I can't hunt down the issue, I will contact Dyna to see what they say. BTW...could it be a fuel issue? I'm not sure if that would make the tach jump around, but it seems like that COULD be the issue otherwise.

If not already done, would assure fuel levels are within spec, by performing the clear tube test.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote: If not already done, would assure fuel levels are within spec, by performing the clear tube test.

Good Fortune!

GOOD CALL! Rode to the store around the corner and did the clear tube test after. #2 and #3 were extremely low (almost empty), while #1 and #4 were about right. Tried to run the gas out of the line, and watched the clear fuel filter...gas stayed in it. I'm thinking it's a clogged fuel line/T adapter/fuel filter. Will replace all of those first, then re-do clear tube test. Thoughts? Should I pull the rack anyway to inspect the bowls, floats, etc?

What type of fuel filter being used? Some of them are designed for cars/trucks with a fuel pump and don't work well onmotorcycle carbs.

Lawn mower fuel fiters are low in gas flow restrictions, try them of possible. Do not use any of the glass bodied fuel filters as more than a few car/truck & motorcycle fires have been caused by them failing....

Nice clear plastic one I got from Z1. It's fairly new (maybe a few hundred miles), so I'm thinking it's past that in the flow, but I will replace with a new one anyway to be sure. Looking at the carb rebuild kits, and may do that as well...maybe the float needles are getting stuck or something.

I vaguely remember someone saying not to use the clear fuel line. I use that from the tank to the filter, but have the black rubber stuff beyond that. Does anyone know why? I can't remember the reasoning.

The clear plastic fuel line usually hardens after a few month's exposure to gasoline, and often yellows, but should remain serviceable if not cracked or leaking, even if hard and yellowed.

Clear Tygon tube is more gasoline resistant, and imo superior to plastic, but there are better fuel lines such as the flexible kink-free uncheap grey line.

I obtain grey line at a local tool rental store that uses it on their tools because it lasts a long time and performs well. And it's available in various sizes.

Before removing or dismantling the carbs, would do a little road test ride with the fuel cap ajar (not snapped down) to determine whether the loosened cap either alleviates the problem or produces no noticeable effect.
This is to help assure that the problem doesn't result from a cap venting issue.

Good Fortune!

I didn't think to try the cap open yet. I will do that too sometime soon, though I'm pretty sure the vent works well because I can hear it venting from time to time (hot days and such). I'm looking at some buna-n fuel lines, since I know the stuff holds up to the ethanol enriched gas, I figure that may be the way to go. I think I might still do the carb rebuild as well, since the only thing I have done with the carbs since getting the bike(about 3 years ago) is light cleaning and a rejet. Thanks for the info, I will let you guys know how it works out doing those things

On a few of the car forums, they've talked about rubber fuel lines being attacked by the Ethanol, actually swelling inside the tubing, restricting gas flow. I believe Silicone tubing is somewhat resistant to Ethanol problems.


Ethanol In Gasoline Problems

Certain materials commonly used with gasoline may be incompatible with high-level ethanol blends, causing them to degrade and contaminate the fuel. Metals that have been shown to degrade over time in the presence of high-level alcohol blends include brass,(floats & jets) lead, zinc(carb bodies) and lead-based solder.

Nonmetallic materials that degrade when in contact with ethanol include natural rubber, polyurethane, cork gasket material, leather, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) polyamides, and certain thermoplastic or thermoset polymers.

On the other hand, unplated steel, nickel-plated steel, stainless steel, black iron and bronze have shown resistance to ethanol corrosion, with nonmetallic materials like reinforced fiberglass, Buna-N, Neoprene rubber, polypropylene, nitrile rubber, Viton and Teflon meeting acceptable usage standards with E85.

Here's a related story:

Ethanol and FUEL LINES

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I recently had an issue with my Yamaha's, my starboard motor started to sputter intermitantly, I changed all the filters, everything seemed ok.

Took the boat back out ran great all day, then on the way in it started again, hmmmmm..... Do I have a clogged filter? Do I have bad fuel? Is my fuel pump going???

I had my mechanic check it out, he was as stumped as I was. I decided to drain a few gallons of fuel off the main fuel tank, disconnected the line from the ball, pumped out 10 gallons, fule looked great. Hmmmm.

Went to hook it back up and looked inside the line and the wall inside had delaminated and was collapsing, ETHANOL had eaten it up.

I called my mecanic, he showed up with 2 new fuel lines, replaced them, put the boat in the water and we ran her up and down the bay. NO MORE PROBLEMS!!! More power and my fuel economy improved...

OH HAPPY DAY!!!

My suggestion, if you have a boat that predates ethanol, check your fuel lines, it only takes a few minutes and it may save you some $$$ and a HEADACHE!!!

Thought I would SHARE this story...