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Clear Coat
- ronjones
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2 questions:
Am I correct in using the 1000 grit paper to prep for more clear coat?
I kind of like the pebbly satin finish that's on there now and would like to know if there is any reason not to leave the "pebbley" finish or is it a necessity to compound it for a shiney finish?
Thanks
Ron
'82 KZ750 CSR, M1 twin. Mac 2-1 exhaust, K&N pods, 17tooth drive sprocket, Mikuni BS-34 carbs w/#47.5 pilot jet and #125 main jet, Canadian XS650 needlejetjet needle, Wired George's coil mod.
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- Pterosaur
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2 questions:
Am I correct in using the 1000 grit paper to prep for more clear coat?
Won't hurt anything. Personally, I'd go #600 wet, but as long as it's scuffed well enough, it'll do.
I kind of like the pebbly satin finish that's on there now and would like to know if there is any reason not to leave the "pebbley" finish or is it a necessity to compound it for a shiney finish?
I'd give the job time to set. At least a week, as much time in the sun as you can reasonably give it.
The techical term for that texture is "orange peel". Trying to remove it by compound alone will likely take you all day - and not guarantee not sanding through the clear. I'd use that #1000 wet with a soft rubber pad to wet/block sand the clear *gently* - wetting often and wiping with a soft, dry rag to see if the peel's out. Then compound lightly, then polishing compound, then finish with glaze/swirl remover. Wait another two weeks at least before waxing.
Ultimately, there's only one person your paint job has to satisfy - and that's you.
If you like it - run with it.
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- RonKZ650
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I'd give the job time to set. At least a week, as much time in the sun as you can reasonably give it.
Only trouble here is you've effectively used up 1 weeks useful life of the repaint job. You do not have that much useful life, so be very, very careful. A rule of thumb is no gas should ever get near the tank, no rain and no sun. For best life, only ride at night on very clear nights with no chance of rain and use some aux. method of fueling like the popular gas can in a backpack with quick disconnect hoses.
I'm sorry guys, it's one of my moody "paint drives me MAD days".
321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.
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- Pterosaur
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Pterosaur wrote:
I'd give the job time to set. At least a week, as much time in the sun as you can reasonably give it.
Only trouble here is you've effectively used up 1 weeks useful life of the repaint job. You do not have that much useful life, so be very, very careful. A rule of thumb is no gas should ever get near the tank, no rain and no sun. For best life, only ride at night on very clear nights with no chance of rain and use some aux. method of fueling like the popular gas can in a backpack with quick disconnect hoses.
I'm sorry guys, it's one of my moody "paint drives me MAD days".
Ron, I gotta admit you had me for a minute.
I read that first line and thought... well, you don't wanna know what I was thinking.
I'll even back up the calendar a couple of days and give you an *April Fools!* on that one.
Good one.
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- wireman
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- ronjones
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After I finish coating the tank, if I want to get the orange peel finish out I should follow your instructions as far as sanding, then compound then swerl remover before waxing. If I want to leave the orange peel texture, just wax after a 2 week cure, of the final coat? Are there any downsides to leaving this texture, other than people telling me I didnt fininsh the job:)?
Thanks again
'82 KZ750 CSR, M1 twin. Mac 2-1 exhaust, K&N pods, 17tooth drive sprocket, Mikuni BS-34 carbs w/#47.5 pilot jet and #125 main jet, Canadian XS650 needlejetjet needle, Wired George's coil mod.
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- ronjones
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LOL Ron, I knew I was gonna catch it form y'all paint purists:). I asked 2 motorcycle painters and they wanted $1400-1800. Even the guy that works at a car shop and paints bikes, at home, wanted $400...not gonna do it. BTW last year when I thought I was gonna be able to get her on the road quickly, I did a half ass job using the same paint. I did spill gas on it and it seemed to hold up pretty good and I hadn't used clear on it. So I'm hoping for the best.Pterosaur wrote:
I'd give the job time to set. At least a week, as much time in the sun as you can reasonably give it.
Only trouble here is you've effectively used up 1 weeks useful life of the repaint job. You do not have that much useful life, so be very, very careful. A rule of thumb is no gas should ever get near the tank, no rain and no sun. For best life, only ride at night on very clear nights with no chance of rain and use some aux. method of fueling like the popular gas can in a backpack with quick disconnect hoses.
I'm sorry guys, it's one of my moody "paint drives me MAD days".
Thanks for your comment, though.
RonJ
'82 KZ750 CSR, M1 twin. Mac 2-1 exhaust, K&N pods, 17tooth drive sprocket, Mikuni BS-34 carbs w/#47.5 pilot jet and #125 main jet, Canadian XS650 needlejetjet needle, Wired George's coil mod.
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- Pterosaur
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Thanks for the reply, PT. So, if I understand you correctly, I just need to scuff it and don't have to get the peel out before I apply more clear.
Correct.
After I finish coating the tank, if I want to get the orange peel finish out I should follow your instructions as far as sanding, then compound then swerl remover before waxing.
Correct.
Remember that any kind of sanding/compunding/polishing is is *removing* applied material, so if you plan on sanding/polishing, it's okay to go a bit wetter and heavier with your coats. Don't worry as much about how it looks - you're gonna sand it again anyway, and don't dreak if you get a run or a droop - take a popsicle stick or some likewise flat item, wrap it with sandpaper and carefully sand it to the contour *FIRST* - then sand the remainder of the piece.
If I want to leave the orange peel texture, just wax after a 2 week cure, of the final coat?
Correct.
Are there any downsides to leaving this texture, other than people telling me I didnt fininsh the job:)? Thanks again
Downsides? Not really - if you're happy with it, then what else matters?
Actually, the UP-side is that if you get tired of the finish or other people's bigotry, you can always "finish" the job at a later date - you're not losing options, per se - you're gaining 'em.
You betch'a.
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- ronjones
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Thanks again:)Remember that any kind of sanding/compunding/polishing is is *removing* applied material, so if you plan on sanding/polishing, it's okay to go a bit wetter and heavier with your coats. Don't worry as much about how it looks - you're gonna sand it again anyway, and don't dreak if you get a run or a droop - take a popsicle stick or some likewise flat item, wrap it with sandpaper and carefully sand it to the contour *FIRST* - then sand the remainder of the piece.
Believe me, PT, I've learned quite a bit about priming/sanding...painting/sanding, recently . You shoulda' seen the rust pitting I built up w/primer and sanded smooth
Are there any downsides to leaving this texture, other than people telling me I didnt fininsh the job:)? Thanks again
Downsides? Not really - if you're happy with it, then what else matters?
A buddy mentioned that the texture might hold dirt.
Actually, the UP-side is that if you get tired of the finish or other people's bigotry, you can always "finish" the job at a later date - you're not losing options, per se - you're gaining 'em.
Cool, I thought the same thing;).
You betch'a.
Wish I could figure out how to do serial quotes and replys :blush:
'82 KZ750 CSR, M1 twin. Mac 2-1 exhaust, K&N pods, 17tooth drive sprocket, Mikuni BS-34 carbs w/#47.5 pilot jet and #125 main jet, Canadian XS650 needlejetjet needle, Wired George's coil mod.
Barrak, Nancy and Harry says: Welcome to the United Soviet States of America, Comrades
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- Pterosaur
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Believe me, PT, I've learned quite a bit about priming/sanding...painting/sanding, recently . You shoulda' seen the rust pitting I built up w/primer and sanded smooth
Oh, I'd believe it.
And you're likely to learn a bunch more before it's over. But that's not a bad thing - there's only one road to experience, and that's in the doing. You can read every book in the world, I cab type till my fingers fall off, but you still gotta *do it* - and the bigger part of learning how to do it is how to learn from the mistakes you'll make and avoid 'em next time.
A buddy mentioned that the texture might hold dirt.
True, after a fashion, I suppose - but they still have soap and water in Maryland don't they? They did last time I was there. Wash it every so often - works wonders on dirt.
If you ride motocross with it, or leave your bike sit under a tree for a couple of months fathering sap and bugshit, sure it'll get nasty. Any paint job would.
I wouldn't be that concerned about it.
Wish I could figure out how to do serial quotes and replys :blush:
Kinda like paint jobs - they take a little practice.
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- AR15Ron
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Seems like everytime I try to make my paint job close to perfect I ruin it and have to start over. I decided to leave the orange peel and just be happy its shiny before I wreck it again LOL
Wheres the pics? We need pics.
Ron
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- Mark Wing
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Mark
Jesus loves you Everyone else thinks your an ***
77 KZ650 C1 with ZX7 forks, GPZ mono rear, wider 18 police wheels and Yoshimura motor.
Yorba Linda Cal.
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