Clear Coat

And as kind of a parting shot on the topic of home-brew tricks with clear, if you go up to the next level and get a small compressor and a gun, you can do some pretty wild stuff pretty cheap.

I could never get a camera to do this paint job justice, and I never striped it because once I saw how it was coming out, a stripe would have detracted from, not added to the job.

Another one of those "never sanded, never rubbed" specials:



Note the right side of the tank - the part in shadow - then picture it under mercury lights - got VD (very drunk) many times explaining that one.

The recipe' is under one of my gallery shots...

Um, my finish doesn't look anything like that but...the "orange peel" finish has disappeared???:ohmy: It's not exactly smooth and glossy but the texture is gone!!! :blink: 2 day dry time at this point.

Tole' ya it'd shrink.

Pterosaur wrote:

Tole' ya it'd shrink.

Yep, ya' did Cool

What's the rule about acrylics and epoxies - can you shoot a layer of the PJ1 Epoxy Clear over rattlecan colours without any problems?

I really would like to use the PJ1 epoxy on my tank, but I don't want to melt it off! I keep getting gas on it by accident, so I need to give 'er a good sanding at this point, anyways.

pyxen wrote:

What's the rule about acrylics and epoxies - can you shoot a layer of the PJ1 Epoxy Clear over rattlecan colours without any problems?

I really would like to use the PJ1 epoxy on my tank, but I don't want to melt it off! I keep getting gas on it by accident, so I need to give 'er a good sanding at this point, anyways.

Fire away, Gridley!

Never had a bit 'o trouble - epoxies are very well mannered shooting over acryllics. Which is nice!

Guess I 'otter expand on that just a leetle bit:

I specifically used the pic of that red tank 'cuz it was an all-rattlecan, all-the-time job.

And that red was the cheapest, nastiest, thinnest, mixed-in-a-toilet bowl no-name brand I've ever seen.

Hell, if it wasn't for that epoxy, it probably would have blown off in the next stiff breeze.

Nah - that PJ1 Epoxy is *da good stuff* as far as rattlecan clears go - it'll even behave itself when shot over nasty rattlecan laquers, provided you give the laquer time to set well.



Post edited by: Pterosaur, at: 2007/04/05 09:18

Anyone have experience with this clearcoat? Says it's impervious the fuel, acid rain, etc.

tinyurl.com/2flu79

Awesome - thanks PT. Now I've gotta go find me some.. Most of the shops around here have the PJ1 paint, but not the clear. :pinch:

Vter Bob wrote:

Anyone have experience with this clearcoat? Says it's impervious the fuel, acid rain, etc.

tinyurl.com/2flu79

Ummmmm, lesse....

The KK7 kit consists of a 6oz. power pack, 6 ounces of CR-410 urethane clear, and a 2 ounces of clear hardener. The 2 ounces of hardener are mixed with the 6 ounces of clear and then attached to the "snap on tool" sprayer. This is the most effecient way to achieve a catalyzed clear finish without going to a body shop for a professional job.There are many different clears on the market and they may not be compatible with our paint. We only test and recommend our own products. Use of any other brands is highly discouraged and ExpressPaint is not responsible for any reactions that may occure due to improper chemicals

Okay. In a word, *horseshit.*

It's a gimmick to jack up a rattlecan to *only* $32.95.

Urethane clears are nothing new. They've beeen around for about 30 years with minor recipe' variations, and are pretty well understood by now chemically. They provide no evidence of the special nature of their product, only a standard disclaimer about compatibility, which does 2 things; provides them an escape hatch if some nOOb screws up a job, and directs nOObs to use them as a sole source - pumps up biz, which is nice! (as far as they're concerned)

Moreover, pumping 2-stage clear through a 3 cent nozzle kind of defeats the purpose of wanting to do the job right in the first place.

There's nothing wrong with the clear, I'm sure - but the base motive here is profit, not results. Show that ad to any painter that knows his ass from a primer gun, better be wearing a raincoat, 'cuz you're about to get sprayed with coffee.

pyxen wrote:

Awesome - thanks PT. Now I've gotta go find me some.. Most of the shops around here have the PJ1 paint, but not the clear. :pinch:

Hi pyxen, I just ordered a can from www.ktmcyclehutt.com/ktmstore/hardparts/paints_coatings.htm
$8 for the paint, $9 for the shipping

I wish they'd just charge $17 for the paint and get rid of the s/h, that you don't find out about until you are checking out and have already made the decision.
RonJ

pyxen wrote:

Awesome - thanks PT. Now I've gotta go find me some.. Most of the shops around here have the PJ1 paint, but not the clear. :pinch:

True enough; it can be difficult to find - I had to track it down locally myself to find a non-mail order source.

But even if you do have to order it, I'd recommend it as the best stuff *I've seen* - or used - as a well-behaved, gas resistant rattlecan clear.

I've seen other stuff advertized and mentioned - up to 30 bucks for a can of Wonder Goo (tm) on web sites, but really can't comment - I've got no need to.

The tanks in those earlier pics were Dirt Track racers that never see an octane under 110 - and that stuff 'll chew the hair out of your nose. Never had a reason to complain about the PJ1. Ever.

PT, don't sugarcoat it, tell me how you really feel.....

Painter I ain't. But at some point I'm going to squirt something on the bike. (I don't want to hear it Ron...) I have this feeling it would be kinda neat to have all the parts the same color. Being the ever frugal Vermonter of course I want to do it on the cheap. Chaepest backyard, under the tree, don't tell the neighbors paint shop around here wants $600 for a basecoat/clearcoat job. I paid $500 for the bike.....

I know materials are pricy but I could never get that paint job by the warden..errrr I mean that cute litle RED headed girl who was crazy enough to mary me. :woohoo: