1976 A4 Rear Swing Arm Help

I would soak those collars with Kroil for 3 days then try again. Ed

Mikaw wrote:

SWest wrote: The center spacer should be smaller diameter than the collars. You should be able to push the spacer down and use a rod long enough to drive the collar out from the inside.
Steve

Steve, if thats true then the swing arm must be bent as the center spacer #7 wont go past the collared #6 bushings. that may explain why the rear tire appears to be shifted to the left. I can slide the center spacer very easily, but it wont go past the collared bushing out either side.

It is not small enough to pass through the collars, but it should be able to move just enough to the side/bottom/top that you can use a long punch as SWest describes.

TexasKZ wrote:

Mikaw wrote:

SWest wrote: The center spacer should be smaller diameter than the collars. You should be able to push the spacer down and use a rod long enough to drive the collar out from the inside.
Steve

Steve, if thats true then the swing arm must be bent as the center spacer #7 wont go past the collared #6 bushings. that may explain why the rear tire appears to be shifted to the left. I can slide the center spacer very easily, but it wont go past the collared bushing out either side.

It is not small enough to pass through the collars, but it should be able to move just enough to the side/bottom/top that you can use a long punch as SWest describes.

Thank you, that makes me feel better that it's not bent. The pivot Bolt that attaches the swing arm to the frame slides in and out easily and can be spun 360 once installed. I'd take that as a good sign the swing arm tube is true. I understand what you are suggesting. Slide the center spacer out of the way and using a long bar/rod tap the collared bushing out from the inside. I'll take the advice of several here and soak the bushings in a penitratiing deep creep oil, be it Kroil, or a 50/50 ATF-Acetone for a couple days and be patient. Thanks for the advise

Yes, the spacer isn't small enough to go through the collar AKA bushing. It will move enough so you can tale a flat ended rod to catch the lip of the opposite bushing and drive it out. I've found a piece of rebar that has a sharp edge is a good bludgeoning tool. When is is cut with a rebar cutter, it has a very sharp edge on the end that will catch most anything. I've used it on stubborn steering head bearings too.
Steve

SWest wrote: Yes, the spacer isn't small enough to go through the collar AKA bushing. It will move enough so you can tale a flat ended rod to catch the lip of the opposite bushing and drive it out. I've found a piece of rebar that has a sharp edge is a good bludgeoning tool. When is is cut with a rebar cutter, it has a very sharp edge on the end that will catch most anything. I've used it on stubborn steering head bearings too.
Steve

Thanks Steve. I'll be working on getting it soaking tomorrow after work then by the weekend hopefully getting them out and on the way to the powder coating

Well the're out. Couldn't move the center spacer out of the way enough to get a bite on the inside edge of the collared bushing. Tried to used the center space to drive out the onsite bushing but it just wedged itself into the opposing bushing making everything even tighter. Got the spacer back centered and just couldn't find a way to catch the inside edge on the bushing to drive it out. So I used a jig saw with a fine tooth metal blade to make relief cut in the bushing. That way I was able to break a section out and get out one side. The center space fell out and then it was very easy to get the last bushing out. Now the concern. As careful as I was I ended up cutting into the the swing arm tube resulting in a 1/4" long cut but very shallow. Should I be concerned? Should I fill it with maybe JB Weld and sand out. Did I ruin the swing arm? Keep in mind that in upgrading to a roller bearing setup.

in my opinion you can use it with no risk.
do remove the rust and the sharp edges with sandpaper.
the roller bearing housing will strengthen this area.

Michael

No problem. Put it together and RIDE THE PISS OUT OF IT.:woohoo:
Steve

Thanks for all the information. While the parts are out for powder coat I'm cleaning, painting and detailing all the smaller parts. Gauge covers,battery box and hand controls are done.


I found this posting
www.kzrider.com/forum/6-paint-a-bodywork...-way-to-remove-paint
But it didn't seam to have any end results or conclusions. Everyone knows how much OEM '76 right side covers are. I found some cheaper but the need to be restored. I need to remove the paint fix the imperfections and primer till I deside on a final color. Can anyone tell me the correct way to prep these parts.
Tried this stuff as the internet claims it won't hurt plastic but my results are less then favorable

Here are the parts and the conditions I'm working with

Well it appears I didn't give the permiitex enough credit. I cleaned the area off real well with a scrub brush and warm soapy water and wet sanded with 400 and found the black layer in the first photo I thought was damaged plastic was just another paint layer. I have sanded thru a few more layers and found gray primer and under that undamaged plastic.

So luckily I have this aftermarket cover to experiment on and I'm going to try a few more applications of the spray remover. Hopefully with success.

Well don't do it!!!!! Appears that the only thing protecting the plastic was the layers of paint the stripper hadn't gotten thru yet. After spraying it on the entire cover again to get down to the base plastic was a disaster. The permatex damaged the plastic. Albeit thick enough that it could probably be sanded out it's not the right product

So the question is still out there. Does anyone have the answers I seek?