Speed Triple Single Sided Swingarm Installation

yes pull the plugs.

leon

mark1122 wrote:

Leon. how do u prefur to turn your motor over now, for valve shim adjt.
Porche, u may want to consider somthing like this for your rear motor mounts.

this looks familiar for some reason )

mark1122 wrote:

porchev914 wrote:

OK guys, so got a little done on the bike, and a little more figured out. The frame getting all twisted up when I spread it out kept bothering me, so I knocked out my temp spreading spacer and TWANG, the frame sprung back to its nice and straight former position. All this means is that I now plan to partially cut the frame in strategic places and bend it out to fit the SSSA, then weld reinforcement cuffs over the cuts in the frame tubes. This revised process should eliminate the distortion I experienced and give me more control over the widening. In preparation for coring 2" holes in the frame where the original pivot bushings are, I made special "hole saw pilot drill washers" and tacked them in place over the pivot bushings. I don't know how many of you have ever tried to use a hole saw without the pilot bit to keep it centered, but it is impossible! At least in an application like this, so....

Great idea, welding a pilot hole in the hole.
I think this is a good idea. trying to move the pivot forward might create more headaches than its worth.
As for the kick start. This is a none issue. I don’t even have 1, nor do any new bikes. The only benefit it has is during maintenance. It allows u a way to turn the motor over to TDC at times without a hassle. Electric start is the way to go.
I see the Japanese builders split the frame and widen them, for wider swing arms. I will post a pic latter. Unfortunately the pic will not give u any insight as to how they did it. But at least, it shows that u are not alone in your task.

just a thought...instead of using collars to go OVER the tubes...why not put a piece inside....butt weld the joint....and plug weld th underside....with a little patience with a grinder and file it should be invisible after paint.
just my .02

Thanks for all the replays guys, it helps me know I'm not just talking to myself AND I keeps me motivated
Thanks for that pic mark, I think I've seen it before, just can't remember where! That pic illustrates exactly what I need to do- I guess I'll just be copying the Japanese

Now I'm not sure I understand what you're suggesting irishwill. Perhapes you could elaborate a bit for me? To clarify, those washers I tack welded in the stock pivots are only guides for a 2" hole saw.

You hit the nail on the head mark, irishwills top rear motor mount will be a model for one of my own, though I'm sure mine won't be quite as sexy

irishwill wrote:

just a thought...instead of using collars to go OVER the tubes...why not put a piece inside....butt weld the joint....and plug weld th underside....with a little patience with a grinder and file it should be invisible after paint.
just my .02

I dont understand what u mean Ben?:side:

leon[/quote]
do u pull the spark plugs? thats the way i do it. i'm allways afraid of braking the pin behind the piont side crank bolt. i have heard that guys have had that issue .[/quote]

Don't worry, it never happens!! :woohoo:

Bluemeanie wrote:

leon

do u pull the spark plugs? thats the way i do it. i'm allways afraid of braking the pin behind the piont side crank bolt. i have heard that guys have had that issue .[/quote]

Don't worry, it never happens!! :woohoo:

I see that u learned this 1st. hand. OOP's
that's whats so great about this site. we don't ALWAYS have to learn from our OWN mistakes. Thanks for sharing, your misfortune..

I am talking about the frame tubes.
after they are cut and the frame is widened....instead of putting a collar or sleeve over the frame tubes to reinforce it.....put a piece of tube INSIDE the frame tube....you will have to add a piece of tube the same OD as the frame tube....the same dimension as the amount you are going to widen the frame.
now drill 2 holes on the under side of the original frame tubes...one on each side.

so frame tube...then opening in frame (amount to be widened) then the other side of the frame tube.
now insert your reinforcing tube inside the frame tube on one side....slide on the piece of tubing the same size as your original frame tube over this piece. and slide the inside piece over so that it is centered ( you will have to use a pic or something to shuffle thepiece over.( the added piece wil be an 1/8 shorter than the opening to allow a 1/16 gap for welding...use this gap to move the inside piece.

now after your butt welds on the added piece of "frame tube"
you can plug weld the under side of the original frame tube at two spots to secure the inside tube to the outside tube

a little shine up with a file....bingo!
hope this helps....its clear as mud to me...haha

oh and I think your Idea of welding a "guide for a hole saw is cool...although I would personally use a coring bit...hole saw are almost always out of round atleast a bit....a coring bit is mor like machining and should produce a nicer hole....and more accurate
in my humble opinion

OK Irish, I understand your point now. The reinforcing collars was a hasty idea to be sure, and I wasn't happy with the idea that they would most likely be noticable. Thank you for your obviously cleaner approach As far as the swingarm pivot holes go, I cannot contest that there would be better hole size conformity and accuracy of placement with a coring bit. If I could gaurantee the perfect accuracy of all other dimensions, a precision coring bit would be the only way to go But knowing that things (aka "my work") wasn't going to be perfectly dead center, I have machined in some small manor of slop to adjust out construction tolerance inaccuracies. But rest assured, if I were more experienced at this, your bit selection would be the better choice.

Adam, I think that you have a good plan. Go ahead and spread the frame to fit over the swingarm pivot, and tack everything in place. Then line up the swingarm, making sure that the pivot will be square and level. Then install the pivot with bushings. Shim the bushings in the holes in the frame, and then tack them in. Go back and check for square and level, and then finish weld. Wouldn't hurt to have a rear wheel and tire to check the alignment.

Thanks Josh. Your right, it wouldn't hurt to have a rear wheel, but i do have a laser :laugh: and lasers are like chrome, they make everything better :lol: I'll see if the laser will show up well in a pic and post it. I'm out in the garage now cutting those holes and cooling off with a cold one. Anyone care to join me?