Speed Triple Single Sided Swingarm Installation

Not exactly my prettiest work, but the edges were so thin! The important part is that it will do its job to keep the pilot drill bit centered

Now, I also have the swingarm up against the back of the frame with the bushings bolted on, just to see things lining up. When I spread the frame again, I will leave the engine in place as well as the swingarm to better judge where and how much to spread the frame

One thing that dawned on me while working this evening was that once I have widened the frame, I'm pretty sure that I will no longer be able to use the kickstarted. Has anyone experienced the loss of their kickstarter due to frame widening?

Adam I like the new idea better. If I'm honest, you had me a little concerned when you said that the frame twisted after you spread it. I have never tried this, but I would guess that a frame under that much tension will be prone to cracking in time.

Are you using the hole saws with a hand drill? If so, then try to turn it a slow as the drill can go, and put as much pressure as you can give it. This is after it starts to cut and will stay "in the groove." This will keep you from burning up that hole saw.

I'm really not qualified to contribute much on this project but here's a little trick I use when trying to keep oil or water(lubricant) trapped in an area while cutting or drilling. If you can get the piece somewhat flat then use plumbers putty to form a dam around the area. Lube stays in the area longer and helps to keep blade/bit cooler, and helps to keep some of the cuttings from flying around. Works great for holes in tile as well. My .02, take it for what it's worth.

porchev914 wrote:

OK guys, so got a little done on the bike, and a little more figured out. The frame getting all twisted up when I spread it out kept bothering me, so I knocked out my temp spreading spacer and TWANG, the frame sprung back to its nice and straight former position. All this means is that I now plan to partially cut the frame in strategic places and bend it out to fit the SSSA, then weld reinforcement cuffs over the cuts in the frame tubes. This revised process should eliminate the distortion I experienced and give me more control over the widening. In preparation for coring 2" holes in the frame where the original pivot bushings are, I made special "hole saw pilot drill washers" and tacked them in place over the pivot bushings. I don't know how many of you have ever tried to use a hole saw without the pilot bit to keep it centered, but it is impossible! At least in an application like this, so....

Great idea, welding a pilot hole in the hole.
I think this is a good idea. trying to move the pivot forward might create more headaches than its worth.
As for the kick start. This is a none issue. I don’t even have 1, nor do any new bikes. The only benefit it has is during maintenance. It allows u a way to turn the motor over to TDC at times without a hassle. Electric start is the way to go.
I see the Japanese builders split the frame and widen them, for wider swing arms. I will post a pic latter. Unfortunately the pic will not give u any insight as to how they did it. But at least, it shows that u are not alone in your task.

I found a pic for u. it looks like the side down tubes have taken on a new shape with a more acute bend.

when i had my lower end apart i took the kick starter shaft and gears out and built an aluminum block off plate.like this one.


i haven't missed the kicker.


leon

i do the opposite i always remove my starter motor and drive, leave the kicker in place i like to keep things simple on my bikes smaller battery less electrical and it blows peoples minds when they watch you kick over a 100 +horse bike and then do a big stupid burnout when you drive away always leaves them shaking there heads

timebomb33 wrote:

i do the opposite i always remove my starter motor and drive, leave the kicker in place i like to keep things simple on my bikes smaller battery less electrical and it blows peoples minds when they watch you kick over a 100 +horse bike and then do a big stupid burnout when you drive away always leaves them shaking there heads

:lol: :lol: :laugh:
allways a good time.

Leon. how do u prefur to turn your motor over now, for valve shim adjt.
Porche, u may want to consider something like this for your rear motor mounts.Irishwill did a fabulous job on this baby.

mark,
i have always used a wrench on the crank to turn the engine over for valve adjustments.i don't like the remote (vague) feeling that you get when trying to turn a motor over with the kicker,do to the reduction gear in the kicker.plus i can turn the motor backwards to get to a lobe that is close enough to adjust,instead of going a whole revolution.
that is how i do.

leon

531blackbanshee wrote:

mark,
i have always used a wrench on the crank to turn the engine over for valve adjustments.i don't like the remote (vague) feeling that you get when trying to turn a motor over with the kicker,do to the reduction gear in the kicker.plus i can turn the motor backwards to get to a lobe that is close enough to adjust,instead of going a whole revolution.
that is how i do.

leon

do u pull the spark plugs? thats the way i do it. i'm allways afraid of braking the pin behind the piont side crank bolt. i have heard that guys have had that issue .