1981 kz750e

two of the overflow tunes there is some king of glue that might be to stop them from leaking where they meet the aluminum the overflow tube being brass.
Do you know what this glue is called I,d like to seal them again because the glue has split in some places but I don't think they are leaking now but soon will be.

The "glue" might be JB Weld which you can buy at Canadian Tire or hardware or auto parts store. It will work but is best to leave it 24 hours to cure. This brass overflow tubes are prone to hairline cracks. I repaired one by getting brass tubing at a hobby store which was just wide enough to slip over the existing tube and soldering at the bottom. Some people report success just soldering. If you have rust then you will probably need to give all the carb passages a really good clean with wire or bristle and blow everything out well with compressed air.

Sorry I cant give any advice on the rusty tank but if you search here you should findsome good suggestions

I took a box of bb's and put them in there, shook it around and flushed it with diesel until no more came out. I have in line filters before the carbs. Make sure the strainers are clear. I don't believe in coatings unless absolutely necessary.
Steve.

Thanks I'll look at the hobby store for some tube.Great idea. Thank You.

BB's that will do it. I looked on youtube last night it looks like I can use vintager a 60% vin to 40% water this way I can fill the Tank I'll let you know how it goes. The BB's would work but i'm not up to shaking that tank around anymore.
Just getting the loose rust out took 45 min of shaking. Thanks for the fuel filter idea I'll add one before the carbs.
Thanks Dan

[attachment:1]IMG-20150613-00015.jpg

Rusty tank

Flote tube coated with jb weld

I pulled the JB weld off like a sleave over the tube
.

Looking closer i saw the tube had been soldered and the drain hole is blocked.

Wow you helped me big time with the BB's. Like I said I was going to use vinegar and water and it worked to clean the rust but I had no way to scrub the inside .(BB"s) did the trick. Thanks so much now I'll add the inline fuel filter like you said is on yours. Look the pic of the junk that came out.

Did you flush it real well? I use diesel to flush things. Mission suggested gas/oil mix. That would work as well.
Steve

Dan-kz wrote: Wow you helped me big time with the BB's. Like I said I was going to use vinegar and water and it worked to clean the rust but I had no way to scrub the inside .(BB"s) did the trick. Thanks so much now I'll add the inline fuel filter like you said is on yours. Look the pic of the junk that came out.

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:sick:

I finished cleaning the carbs, So when I do the clear tube test are the carbs on the engine ?

You might want to do it on the bench first the recheck them on the bike.
Steve

Ok I'll rig something up. I just need to get a fuel filter first,I saw how fine the rust broke down and can't chance getting it into the carbs.

swest wrote: You might want to do it on the bench first the recheck them on the bike.
Steve

+1

Its best if you can do it on a bench
Here's my crude but effective setup outside. I use an old lawnmower gas tank. Use a ruler to actually measure the level (mm below the seam between carb and carb bowl)



If all in spec the you're done. If not then turn carbs upside down, remove bowls and measure the float height. Do the math from the fuel level reading and adjust float height the required mm by bending the tang pressing on the needle valve.
Example - if your fuel level is 2 mm to low then adjust the float height by 2 mm in the right direction. Much better than trial and error.
Button verything up and you will have the correct levels.