kz750 ltd h2 1981 - will crank wont start fully?

hi motorhead

have you got bionic ears?

the mystery is solved!.... you solved it!
thank you so much.

to analyse the engine sounds one by
one. the metal sound was back in feb. 12th.
it was the rotor nut, just touching the
inside of the pick up points cover.
this has been rectified. the idle was set up
by the mechanic. the throttle set by him,wasn't set
correctly. adjusted now. he actually tightened
all the idle screws, no 2 turns outward?
all turned out now, 2 turns, the kaw
manual advised this.

the three pipes got hot, #1 cold?
what i found on #1, idle screw set wrong.
vacuum pipe cap, missing.
i set the screw 2 turns outward, put the
vacuum cap on #1 and the pipe then
got instantly hot to match the other three
temperature.

q) would having the idle screws set wrong,
effect the air/fuel mixture, resulting
in sooty plugs? or because the 6,600 miles
engine has not worked for years, lying
dorment and the insides have residues
waiting to be burnt off?

so all pipes are hot, great.

the oil/filter needs to be changed, oil
contaminated by incorrect fuel levels.
oil smells of fuel. oil arrives monday.

jobs not done, due to the above.

dynamic timing
check air/fuel mixture, how please?
balance the carbs
anything else?

*** contacted ebay, returned the dangerous
glass inline filter to the seller, you saved
my life here, thank you very much!

many thanks gang for pointing
me in the correct direction.

steelhorseangel wrote: q) would having the idle screws set wrong,
effect the air/fuel mixture, resulting
in sooty plugs?

Yes, possibly. If your fuel levels were all correct, and mixture screws set to default positions - things should be fine and not far off enough to have issues. There could be something else causing an issue with idle/just off idle (which is all the mix screws are for), and the way to test this theory is to run the bike. Get it hot and drop the idle down to spec (1000ish). Turn each mix screw out one at a time, by 1/2 turn increments (counting the turns), listening for the idle to drop/begin to stumble. If all four drop/stumble at around the same number of turns out - then all four carbs are fueling similairly at idle. Return the screws back in to the highest/smoothest idle point before checking the next - usually very close to stock positions when fuel levels are correct.

If one of the screw adjustments causes stumbles, or never does the same as the rest - sumthing is a miss! Investigate...

or because the 6,600 miles
engine has not worked for years, lying
dorment and the insides have residues
waiting to be burnt off?

Yeah, possibly, but not that likely. You really shouldnt judge plugs when just running a bike on the stand. It needs to be ridden. hen you can FEEL the powerband and judge much better where deficiencies are. Sure - if the bike wont start easy and rev to redline on the stand, you have an obviously way out of spec issue, but if it does - buttin that bike up and hit the street. (After all other safety stuff is done of course :blink: ) You need to put miles on that thing before judging plugs. Most times, stock jetting with some subtle adjustmens is just fine without crazy mods.

Always start with new plugs.

so all pipes are hot, great.

the oil/filter needs to be changed, oil
contaminated by incorrect fuel levels.
oil smells of fuel. oil arrives monday.

jobs not done, due to the above.

dynamic timing
check air/fuel mixture, how please?
balance the carbs
anything else?

Perfect, so you're on your way...

hi tek

thank you for all of your help too.
i would never of known about the
fuel in the oil, you all know
your engines, it's a fascinating!

i've got my oil/filter on order, got a right
good deal on 20L & 3 filters. arrives monday.

q) i would normally drop the oil/filter
when the engine is still warm.

you advised me not to start the engine.
thank you. i will not touch it until monday
and then drop the oil cold. i expect it
will be like treacle! first oil/filter change.
the residue will be interesting!

thanks again everyone!

Regards

Angel

steelhorseangel wrote: q) i would normally drop the oil/filter
when the engine is still warm.

Yeah, after a good run (30mins or more...). Wear gloves! ...you'll get used to threading out the plug while gently pushing up on it, then pull it out and away quickly. If it doesnt come away, theres a thread or so left. turn it out while pushing up on it, then pull away again. After a few tries it will come away clean and you'll hardly get any oil anywhere but in your collector.

The oil can splash a little, especially if there is a considerable distance betwen the engine and collector. Be ready with rags. Leave the plug out for a good 10mins for sufficient drainage. I like to tilt the bike back/forth a little to help it drain.

If you're changing the filter too, there will be a considerable amount in there even after draining the regular plug. The filter eill be full of oil too. Rags!

Good luck. Sounds like things are progressing nicely. You'll be riding soooon :silly:

hi tek

thanks for your message!

my friends wanted to hear 'eric' roar, i'd to refuse today.
taking your sound advice!
i need to change the contaminated oil and filter hopefully tomorrow.

q) as my oil has fuel in it, is the oil change best cold
as you've advised NOT to run the bike until oil/filter changed?

q) what are the 4 x pilot screws for?
each one should be 2 turns out, is this for every screw?

then adjust with the idle to between 1000-1100 rpm with the idle screw.

like the other kzr's have advised, i need to ride the bike for a period
to evaluate the plug colors etc. looking for light brown, not white etc

my bike is nearing completion :laugh: yippee!
and i've to now book my bike for the British MOT, for transport
safety checks, this lasts a year.

q) what do you've in the US?

many thanks, keep you posted!...

Angel

steelhorseangel wrote: q) as my oil has fuel in it, is the oil change best cold
as you've advised NOT to run the bike until oil/filter changed?

Yes. get rid of that awful soup before running, lol.

q) what are the 4 x pilot screws for?
each one should be 2 turns out, is this for every screw?

Yes. Each pilot mixture screw should be out 2 turns by default. These screws control the air/fuel mixture at idle, and effect the off-idle or 1/8th throttle region slightly. The 2 turns out is basically a starting point for tuning. You can adjust them as I stated in my previous post.

then adjust with the idle to between 1000-1100 rpm with the idle screw.

You can have the idle wherever you like once all tuning is complete. For testing purposes, its best to stick to 1000rpm or less.

like the other kzr's have advised, i need to ride the bike for a period
to evaluate the plug colors etc. looking for light brown, not white etc

A reletively white plug is ok with a real hot spark (high quality ignition). It will have a dark/almost blackish circle around the base of the porcelin down in the plug where is meets the metal, and a very lightly toasted color ring at the very top. Theres lots more to a good read... Anywho! - it doesnt matter much what the plug looks like unless you have issues. You tune the bike by power and feel depending on throttle input and rpm - but thats a whole nuther bag o bananas! :laugh:

my bike is nearing completion :laugh: yippee!
and i've to now book my bike for the British MOT, for transport
safety checks, this lasts a year.

Wha? that doesnt sound good... :blink:

q) what do you've in the US?

You mean, what bikes do I have?

Just check my signature - below my posts is a list of my rides.

PS - I'm a Canadian Man. :laugh:

w/shades

Bump
Did you pass the MOT inspection??

hi motorhead and all my other
kzr's online buddies!

angel here from the uk!

great news! i rode eric for the first
time a few days ago to the mot inspection.
eric was examined thoroughly by two
mot examiners and they said
'we can't fault your work at all!'
eric passed with flying colors!
i smiled from ear to ear.
i then road for a while, up and down hills and
twisties. it felt wonderful, gripped like glue
and stopped on a dime.
however it kept cutting out?
carb/jet clogged?
the only thing i can do is to
remove and check the carbs, or
could it be something else?

i will upload the uk pass certificate and
my first ride out! all my neighbors
came out to cheer loud!

i've plenty of fuel. the new pingel valve
and pingel on/off/reserve fitted. all good
mods.

Could it be that the Tank fuel cap is not venting properly? Or possibly the choice of in-line fuel filter is causing a restriction of flow?
Good to hear the MOT liked your work, and you are now riding. Hopefully you can meet up with a couple more KZR members from the UK over the summer.

hi motorhead.

great to hear from you!

when i changed the stock tap to a
high flow pingel, i also fitted a hi flo
pingel inline filter at the same time.
pingel advised to fit 5/16" i.d from tank
to carbs. standard is 1/4" i.d.
could the difference between 1/4 and 5/16
i.d cause too much gas to flow? or
can the carbs cope with the pingel hi
flo system?

many thanks for your advice all!

ride safe!

Angel

steelhorseangel wrote: ...kept cutting out? carb/jet clogged? the only thing i can do is to
remove and check the carbs, or could it be something else?....

"Cutting out" is often an issue related to the ignition.

Pingel and filter and hoses are all just fine.

Congrats on all the work well done!

Good Fortune!

hi kzr's riders

as arnie said, i'll be back!...

here is a first ride out to the mot station, eric passed with flying colours.
the mechanics said that my mechanicing was 1st class for a lass!...

see also the actually promised video of my ride and the uk certificate of safety!..






*** thank you each and every kzr's that gave me confidence to try new things.
i will alway be most grateful for all the time you've all taken to help me
sort out eric!.***

i've a few more problems that i will ask about. i'm sure that i won't be the last
to ask these questions!..

THANK YOU SO MUCH ALL OF YOU, YOU'RE ALL GURU'S AND NICE GUYS IN HELPING
A ROOKIE LADY MECHANIC! X