kz750 ltd h2 1981 - will crank wont start fully?

steelhorseangel wrote: hi motorhead!

thank you for your reply. it was indeed
an emotional high when eric roared!
it brought tears to my eyes, the worlds
biggest smile and the loudest 'wooowahey!'
ever!

my carbs are not mikuni, but keihins 34.
i've the oem workshop manual and being
a rookie mechanic been reading it very
carefully.
i can't find any details of:-

the sizes of the oem jets?

the floats heights?

i'm starting to really enjoy looking in depth
to how the carbs are assembled and adjusted!

i will post some more photos tomorrow.
they're worrying that you pay for chroming
and get overprocessed parts that can cause
mechanical failure! tell you more tomorrow.

regards and thanks motorhead!

Angel

Are you sure of the Carb's being Keihin's? It will say on the carb, or post up a good picture.
Anyway the Fuel Level Check with a clear tube to the float bowl drain, will be the same. Fuel should be just below the Gasket surface area, within 3mm. The Idle mixture screws would still be 2 turns out. As this is a starting point, and some further fine tuning is almost always required to get it right.
Did you get your Timing Light, that you ordered? If so hook it up to the #1 plug wire, and at Idle you should see the "F" mark line up with the Fixed Mark on the case, just like Patton posted.
Your almost there with the setup, do these and then see how it runs before condemning anything else.

1981 KZ750 LTD-4 (H2) specs

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_content...view&id=67&Itemid=48

thanks 650ed,
I was just trying to see if maybe the replacement Carb set Angel bought was a set of the common BS34 carbs and possibly jetted to rich for her bike.
If they are truly Keihin's, the leak could be that the previous Tech's did not install fresh bowl O-rings. As the fuel level would pass above the sealing surface when running, on side stand etc.
Float/ Fuel level, and a fresh set of the Bowl O-rings, Maybe the Needle valves if they were not replaced. The Keihin should have a Nitrile or Viton tipped needle valve.
Patton please post your Clear Tube Test picture when you get a chance.

hi tek

angela here!... what are props dude?

have a look at my latest photos!..

so near, to riding!...

thanks for your help too!

regards

angel

((( hug )))

Props = slang for "proper due respect"

The more you know!

hi motorhead!

thanks for your messages!...

here are some photos that you asked for!

i've include a photo of the carb tops internal damage, the reason for now vacuum!...
the internal spring holders were actually ground off all #4 carb tops!..

the mechanic has now gone missing. i drove to his shop today, no one home?

plus a shiny new photo of customised eric, nearing completion!


q) i've now received the draper inductive timing light. i connect it up to the #1 or #$ and battery. then view the timing marks through the hole in the pickup coil, this where the timing plate is located, F, T, 1/4, ok?


many thanks

angel

hi kzr's

just checked the carb manufacturers, definately
keihin. this is confirmed by the third party
carb overhaulers. the report advises
complete overhaul of keihin cv34 x 4.
i paid them £300 quid and they came back
faulty. unfortunately i got hurt in a road accident.
missed the deadline to return them.

i think that the mechanic who i paid
to get my bike started, might of used the
reference book to try and set the turns in/out
and the correct float heights. the mechanic
set them all at 22mm?, no turns in or out?
i don't think this mechanic knows these bikes.
watching him unassemble my spare carbs, again
keihin 34's he doesn't use a container to put
parts in, just the work bench top, so many
little parts to lose!

i'm concerned about him losing parts etc.

regards

Angel

Your bike looks really clean! Interesting graphic on the tank & sidecovers. Oh, nice Hagon shocks too! Ed

thanks ed!

hel stainless brakelines, nautilus airhorn.

the graphics on the tank and side panels
is called stompgrip traction. i made cardboard
templates and then cut my own knee grips.
using a heat gun, heat the pre cut pads and
tank areas. press on an inch at a time. use
heat again all over the area. press down well!
looks different to other bikes! bit expensive $!

q) what is the manufacturer of the stock
carbs on the kz750 ltd h2 please:-

mikuni or keihin 34's

q) what carb is the best for my bike please?

q) i can't find any settings for the turn in/outs
or float heights for my keihin's?

many thanks

angel

Stock carbs = keihin 34's. Take a look at the link to Specs I provided in an earlier posting. You may find it interesting. Ed

Those Carb tops, the last mechanic took out the spring centering bosses? I wonder if he was thinking that they would limit slide travel. There are some Euro Keihin CV carb's where this is true. But not yours. He has ruined the carb tops. While possible to re-attach, its probably better to use another set of tops. You can't have a Vacuum leak here.
I would steer clear of that fellow.
Hopefully between all of the people here and you, all can be solved. Just a bit of tuning I would think.
Float dry Height with the carb body inverted on the bench is what you are referring to with the 22mm height. Much better to check the actual fuel level in the carb, with the clear piece of tubing. Then you can be sure that the fuel level, and float are both set and functioning correctly. When you get ready to pull off a float bowl to re-adjust the Fuel Level/ float height, you may want to have new bowl O-rings on hand. they are the same as several other bikes out there, so you don't need top $ Kawasaki parts. Harley Davidson, Suzuki, etc all use a Keihin carb. If you search you will find several part #'s to go by. As cheap as $4 USD a o-ring.
Here is a thread from another Forum I'm on, for the GTR/ZG 1000 they use the Keihin CVK 34:
www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=4689.msg53985#msg53985

hi motorhead

thank you for your message.

q) are my carbs the correct ones, euro?

i think i've confused you. it was the chromers
who polished off the carb top rivets.
this was an oversight by the polisher.
when the 'mechanic' first started the bike
each vacuum sucked the spring guides off.
i've now repaired all the caps. using fuel resistant
epoxy metal to metal adhesive, i cemented
them on and popped revited them as well.
they're stronger than before.

the bike starts on the button, the rapid
idle is the problem. there are so many
adjustments to the carb. i've tried to slow
down the idle using the spring adjuster.

***** i can't find the measurements/setting for
each carb. i'm not sure how to fix the idle problem.

i will try and find my missing info as above.

many thanks motorhead.

did you like the photos?

best

Angel