kz750 ltd h2 1981 - will crank wont start fully?

hi patton!

thank you so much, you've made this
gal very happy with your brilliant
pictorial guides!

yippeeeeer! i feel like shouting eureka!
i think i've grasped it now. in the uk
we say 'the penny has dropped!'

i need to reattach the big 17mm bolt
and then rotate the timing plate a smidge to line
the 'F' = fire to align with the engine mark.
i didn't even know that little mark was there!

on the fitting instructions from boyer, they
advise the following:-

so many degrees from TDC, it mentions
this other adjustment for the z1, z1000,
i don't know about kz750 ltd?

motorhead has been really helpful too,
many thanks. it's greatly appreciated ya all!

providing the bike starts after the static timing
is successful.
a friend is coming round tomorrow with
an inductive strobe. is it true that i need to

continued......

q) is it technically correct that you
connect the inductive strobe light to
a spare battery, not the bikes battery.
as this gives a false reading?

fingers crossed for the ignition
alignment tomorrow!.... i'm getting
really excited on my kaw starting up.
how do i upload my first start up
video, same way?

wow, we're nearly there Euston!
:-)x thank you gang, the drinks are on me!

You can hook the strobe up to the bike's battery; it will not cause a problem or false reading at all. Ed

thanks ed!

it was boyer bransden who advised me
not to use the bikes battery.
i'm confused now!

regards

Angel

If they made the ignition system I would follow their advice. I have been performing my own tuneups on my KZ650-C1 for 35 years and never have I even heard of using a separate battery; it certainly is not required when using Kawasaki the stock ignition on my bike. All the strobe does is sense the firing of the spark plug (using the inductive pickup clamped around a spark plug wire) and upon sensing that it completes the power circuit from the battery that triggers the strobe light. I guess it's possible that the Bransden electronic components are so sensitive that they are affected when the strobe pulls power from the bike's battery. I wonder if the timing gets squirrely when the turn signals are used?

hi ed!

great to hear from you!

gosh 35 years of biking, you've hotter
weather over in the states, lucky you!

why don't you send kevin the main technician
at boyers, an email! they're right nice people. i don't
know what effect it will have on the turns!
we all could learn something!

Angel

Where is the gas pouring out of? As previously said - gas should never overflow for any reason.
Leaving the choke on/throttle twisted/gas on - does not matter.
If fuel is overflowing - carb float needles/needle seats require maintenence in order for bike to run correctly. There's lots of excellent info for repair on this forum...

Compression is very important. Do you have a compression guage? Check compression.
Valves may require adjustment - as per regualr maintenence section of your manual.

The fuel hight in the carb bowls and the pilot fuel jets being clean/clear is required.
Correct amount of idle input on the carbs is required. (small thumb screw to increase/decrease idle).

Get your spark going good/timed - make sure there is good compression. With correct fuel height and clear pilot jets - carbs at default settings. Bike will fire and run, no problems.

Fuel + Air in proper ratio. Spark correctly timed. Compression = Ignition!

Good luck. Have patience! Its not difficult stuff, just time consuming!



Sorry, forgot to mention: if you dont have compression guage do this:
Disconnect power wire from each coil.
Remove all plugs.
Have someone hold throttle full open.
Lick thumb/finger and place over plug hole.
Press thumb down hard creating seal.
Turn bike on/pull clutch.
Press starter down... the compression should pop your finger off the hole no matter how hard you push down.
If it does this for all cylinders - there is enough compression to start and idle!
Dont worry -it wont suck in your finger - dont be a scared!



:laugh:

hi tek

thanks for your message!

the petcock diaphragm was assembled in correctly.
this leaked from the seam, this was one of
the problems. the petcock still leaked excess
gas into the carbs and then out of the overflow
tubes!

the second problem was the gas pipe, we
were given a generic one for quad bikes.
the inside diameter was too big. even with
screwed clamps, it leaked.

the tank was emptied of gas. the carb bowls
were then drained.

i'm going to buy a manual pingel hi flo petcock and
hi flow inline filter. just ordered some tygon???
this gas pipe is yellow in color. it doesn't go
hard or brittle. once fitted, that's it for good!
just cover it in a black fibreglass sheath and
it will not be noticed!

patton and motorhead, have really sorted
my non starting bike out. my timing plate
'F' stop is a long way off. please see my photos
today. the timing will be done tomorrow.
i'll bet the old gal will dinosaur roar!

many thanks for dropping in!

regards

Angel

Pull a plug out (outside) and rotate the engine with your finger in the plug hole. You will fell compression. When you feel the compression remove your finger and watch the piston and the marks on the timing advancer. The "T" on one and four is where you should start.

1 and four are the out side and 2 and 3 the inside. The left coil should be 1 and four and the right 2 and three.

If you can't do the static timing loosed the left pulse coil for 1 and 4. It should be the left one. Have someone try and crank the engine while you move the pulse coil. When it tries to run snug it down and then do the right.

The important thing is to have the components and wires going to the correct components.

Gee I hope your ignition times like a dyna. :pinch: Roy

steelhorseangel wrote: the petcock still leaked excess
gas into the carbs and then out of the overflow
tubes!

Very good.

Just to correct your way of thought... There is no such thing as excess gas flowing into the carbs.
The carbs must stop the flow of fuel automatically, just like a float stops the water in your toilet - or Lou?

If you set the petcock to pri, fuel flows freely. The carbs should fill, then stop filling and hold that fuel at least overnight without allowing any more fuel to flow. If there is any overflow - the carbs are not working properly, and will cause starting/running issues.

Cheers.

I'm no expert but left 1/4 right 2/3 is how the 1000's are
sorry if you have already covered this my ADD keeps me
for retaing what i've already read