kz750 ltd h2 1981 - will crank wont start fully?

guess who left the prime and choke on?
i'd a visit from a friend and an hour or three
later, noticed the small puddle.
i don't think i've a problem. i've no knowledge
of starting this classic bike. i've always had
modern bikes, ones that does the thinking for you.

today i tried a different approach. i emptied the
carb bowels. left it for a few hours and then
tried to start my bike again. prime for seconds,
then i turn the tap on, it's cold here, so i also
put the choke on. depressed the clutch switch,
pressed the starter button, fast crank, wants
to start. some popping and slight back firing.

the bikes engine is newish, 6,600 on an 81.
the engine oil and filter was changed, filled to
the correct level.

the static timing hasn't been done, i don't
know how to do this YET .
the dynamic timing can't be carried out
as my motor won't start fully?

i've checked all the electric ignition.
it's correct to the small schematic.

what i've thought about is this.
the fuel to the carb is delivered by vacuum.
the fuel that i've used is generic. it came
from a do it yourself shop. it's a reinforced
fuel pipe with an inside diameter of more than
3/8". the man in the shop said that he uses
this on lawnmowers and quad bikes.
taking this pipe i connected some to the bottom
of the carbs. with a pipe clip. i then inserted
the recommended 1/4" sintered brass inline filter
it was a loose fit. again i tightened the pipe with a clip.

q) could incorrect pipe cause too much/too little
fuel (restricted by the 1/4" filter) to effect fuel flow?
i've since found out that this clear stuff, goes
hard and brittle with time.

i've gone and ordered the following:-

pindel hi-flo manual fuel valve
pindel 5/16" inline filter
tygon 5/16" none hardening fuel pipe.

i think the problem is fuel flow

nb: oem petcock has been serviced, checked
by a mechanic advised change to a pingel.

or

could it also be the starter solenoid?

many thanks for your advice ya all!

"
the static timing hasn't been done, i don't
know how to do this YET .
the dynamic timing can't be carried out
as my motor won't start fully?"

I think this is where you need to go, set the timing so it is close enough to get it running. To far off and it won't want to run. A picture of the Ignition you're using, as installed on your bike would help. But basically there is two pick-up coils mounted on the plate under the right side cover. Then there is a T, and F mark for the 1/4 cylinders. Then you'll see where the small Ignition Rotor, right on the end of the crankshaft has a raised notch. So set the motor to 1/4 "F" mark by rotating the crankshaft using the 17mm nut on the right end. Once that's aligned, then move the pick coils by turning the plate so that the small raised notch is just coming up to the center area of the pick-up coil where there is a clean metal contact. These should not touch but have an Air Gap of around .020" So now with the motor on "F" for 1/4 and the Ignition Rotor getting ready to pass the pick-up coils signal area, the timing should be close enough to get it started. Then you can use a timing light for further adjustment.
Then you may be able to set each pick-up coil independently on the Plate. so the 2/3 coil will need to be set the same as the 1/4 coil for the timing. Both statically and then again once its running. Now the timing light you bought, does it have a built in advance feature, so a dial on the back of it? Or if digital a advance button? If so that will help make it easier, you can use the "T" mark to set both sides. First get 1/4 to show that it is aligned with "F" at Idle, then rotate the Dial or press the button to 10 degrees so that the "T" mark is aligned at Idle. This is only the light showing the difference, since you changed the dial/ button to show 10 degrees. Now move the Clamp for you light from the #1 wire to the #2 wire, and then set the 2/3 pick-up to show the "t" mark also at Idle with the light still set to 10 degrees.
Hope this helps and makes sense for you. If you still need some help setting the Static timing, can you post some pictures with the timing plate/ Ignition, and the model timing light you bought?

hi motor

what a star you're!
thank you so much for all of your help!
it's greatly appreciated!

i like others have sourced all of the parts
to rebuild this kaw. this has taken
quite some time! seeing your bike look better
each day with new powder coating etc
is really rewarding. i'm so close to hear the
dinosaur roar, hopefully! all thanks to you
and the other kzr's!

i do have some good photos of the timing
plate/advancer + boyer ignition photos. i've tried to upload and i can't
get it to do it? do i need any password to do this?

what is the maximum size of jpg image please?

many thanks for taking time out to help me.

Angel
((( hug )))

When including a pic within an outgoing message, it's best to keep pic size within the following limits:

Width: 2400px
Height: 1200px
Size: 2048kb (2 MB)



For more detailed help, click on this link:
www.kzrider.com/forum/8-about-the-site/5...e-a-pic-in-your-post

Good Fortune!

hi patton

thank you so much for contributing to my
none starting problem. i've some photos attached
here showing some of the boyer bransden
ignition system. i will take some more of
the timing plate, the pickup coil and
stator tomorrow.

i'm trying to understand static timing, then when the
motor is running, dynamic timing with a strobe.
i've just ordered an inductive strobe light from
amazon, it's a draper.

here are some photos of my new ignition system.
it's similar to a dyna.

many thanks!

regards

Angel

hi patton

pressing the add file, still doesn't work?
can i only upload from a computer?
i've a massive library of photos on my iphone
4. i've resized the photos to less than 2MB.
not sure why the link is dead?

do i upload from your message only?
or can i upload to any kzr?

many thanks patton!

regards

Angel

Not sure if you have this model from the Broyer Brandson Company. But this is the Install instructions, they give the details for the Static timing set-up.
www.boyerbransden.com/pdf/KIT00073__BOX00015_.pdf

Sniped from instructions
16) The magnetic rotor supplied has no direct location on the advancer shaft and can be fitted in any position.
This is due to the dogs on the advancer shaft being placed in various positions by the manufacturer.
The method of setting is shown in Fig.3. Set the engine to the (T) Top Dead Centre position mark on 1.4 or 2.3
cylinders. Move the rotor to the position shown if Fig.3, with the leading edge of the magnets in line with the
centre of the pole pieces on the stator plate. Tighten the centre bolt. A small tap on the end of the rotor will
give small indentations inside the rotor,these can be filed out to provide greater location and give a refitting
position if the rotor is removed.

hi patton and motorhead!

here are some photos of my boyer system.


q) how do i find the timing marks for TDC please?

i simply don't know how to set the timing, i'm willing to learn!

many thanks

Angel

Thats some good pictures there Angel.
The bottom picture is the Kawasaki Rotor. You need to Align the 1/4 "F" mark with the mark on the engine case. Then as per the instructions from Brandson, set the New rotor onto the end of the crankshaft so that the magnets align with the Pick-ups. Those are the two small electric coils with the posts sticking out. Brandson says their Rotor is not Keyed or Pinned, so it can go on and be off significantly. It just needs to have the pick-ups and the magnets from their Rotor align when the Engine marks are lined up, 1/4 "F" mark. Then you can get it running, and check it with your new timing light. Some further adjustment will be required to get it correct.

hi patton & motorhead

this is a little alum. mounting bracket i designed and made
to accomodate and use existing placement of the Boyer ignition module!
keeps in cool as well. Boyer suggest positioning on the frame, above the
hot engine. mine is under the battery box and i've used heatproof sleeving!

many thanks

Angel

hi motorhead!

thanks!

i tried to upload my photos from my iphone, it wouldn't work. i photographed the parts -5GB
then using a free app from apple 'simplyresize' made the images for the forum.
you can only upload from your computer!...

as you're not busy would you like to fly over to the uk and fix the timing for me!

Seriously i don't know how to set my timing.

quote: 'You need to Align the 1/4 "F" mark with the mark on the engine case'

where are the engine timing marks please?
in the workshop manual 53 bottom right it mentions pulling the engine apart!

when you remove the central bolt, there is a little pip, where the rear of the plate
notches in, to orientate the plate. i've then put the 12/13mm bolt back in and righty tighted!..
however since the new ignition system was put in i've lost the 17mm bolt.

does the bike have to be in/out of gear?

things you know, things you don't know. i've never set timing before.

many thanks

angel


i

Congrats on the picture posting!

This will confirm identity of the F mark and case timing mark.



When the F mark for 1/4 aligns with the case mark, the ignition is supposed to un-ground a small wire from whichever coil has plug wires to the outside #1 and #4 spark plugs.

Un-grounding the coil causes the coil to fire.

Good Fortune!