kz750 ltd h2 1981 - will crank wont start fully?

hi motorhead!

many thanks for your very
informative message, great to hear
from you!

i've found a problem with my carb drain
bowls. as i'd two spare carbs i found
some matching drain bowls. i gave them
a very good clean. i then attached
tubes to each of them. poured in a tiny
amount of fuel and reasurred myself that they
drained through each tube and not through
the screw.
following this, checked the rubber seals and
o rings. reassembled the bowls.
then set my carbs up for the clear tube
method. please see my photo.
put the carbs back on. connected a temp
fuel tank. the engine runs, idle stable.
problem: #1 downpipe not getting hot?
i will check the ht, cap and plug tomorrow.
also exchange ht, cap and plug from a
hot pipe and try these on #1.

i did download 2 degree wheels in pdf
format. one in CW and one in CCW direction.
i've both here, not sure which one to use?

i don't fully understand the dynamic
timing procedure. this is what i might try:-

remove plugs to make it easier
to turn the motor!

1) find tdc with a pencil! can't find a gauge
anywhere. how often would i use it?

2) put either the CW or the CCW degree
disc onto the crank bolt. see where tdc timing
is
on the engine casing, the starting point of
zero! '0' then using a 17mm socket turn
the motor CCW 40 degrees to advance?

Q) what i'm confused about, the motor
starts on the button, #1 pipe is cold.
the motor idles. has the mechanic adjusted
this already to start the motor. if so
by adjusting the motor again, the motor
may not start.

i wish i'd a to do list:-

1) do this
2) do that
3) then that
4) etc

i think the starting position
is tdc, then i get lost in the whole
procedure. i managed the static
timing. this was then altered by the mechanic
to get it running. i get confused with the purpose
'F' stop and the 1 l. 4. these are the #1 and #4
cylinders. would setting these 2 cyls,
then automatically set 2 & 3?

q) how many relevant engine marks please?

many thanks kzr's!

rookie timer Angel!

ps

hiya chucks!

gosh thank you so much
for your input in helping me.
your drawings are really informative.

this is my first bike that i've restored.
i managed to do the recommended
clear tube method, thank you everyone.

i've to be honest here, i don't
know how to do this stage of the 1 4 timing.
it's possible that the mechanic i paid
might've already done this. the bike now
starts, idles. no timing strobe was used, he
just swiddled the timing plate.

i will not give up at all.
i'm confused with the logical sequence
to set 1 4. by adjusting the crank now.
the bike might not start again?

q) why do they make clockwise and
anticlockwise degree discs?

the more i think about it, the more confused
i'm.

many thanks Guru's

Angel

If not already done, might find some installation instructions online that could be helpful.

www.boyerbransden.com/instructions.html

www.boyerbransden.com/pdf/KIT00301__BOX00233_.pdf

For example, scroll down to whichever listing includes the bike at hand, such as for instance,

KIT00101 (BOX00033) Micro-Digital ignition system for Kawasaki Z750 with standard or with high output ignition coils (311k)

And clicking the number produces a pdf file containing detailed instructions.


Good Fortune!

Counter clockwise degree wheels are for bikes with ignition plate on other side. :lol:

Read my protractor post... Its really not very hard...

Post some nice clear pictures of what you got there...

Look at your Brandson instructions. Also look at the ignition plate, where the two pick-ups are bolted onto the plate, aren't they able to be adjusted independently? This would allow for a fine adjustment between the cylinder pairs. So if the 1/4 set was firing at the correct time, but 2/3 was off a bit. Then you could move one of the pick-ups to change the setting. A further adjustment/ check can be necessary with timing an electronic Ignition the first time it is installed. But once you set it up, then it should be good.
So get your 1/4 pair to fire when the "F" mark lines up with the case mark at Idle. Looking through the upper window on the timing plate. Then if you made the reference mark for the 2/3 "F", see if it also lines up.

Motor Head wrote: Thats some good pictures there Angel.
The bottom picture is the Kawasaki Rotor. You need to Align the 1/4 "F" mark with the mark on the engine case. Then as per the instructions from Brandson, set the New rotor onto the end of the crankshaft so that the magnets align with the Pick-ups. Those are the two small electric coils with the posts sticking out. Brandson says their Rotor is not Keyed or Pinned, so it can go on and be off significantly. It just needs to have the pick-ups and the magnets from their Rotor align when the Engine marks are lined up, 1/4 "F" mark. Then you can get it running, and check it with your new timing light. Some further adjustment will be required to get it correct.

Sorry, I'm assuming this has been accomplished/attempted... My directions are how to mark/check the rotor/cam and then perform the dynamic timing. I thought the new Branson rotor/cams had no markings... :pinch:

Oh yeah, one more thing Angel :silly:

When carbs overflow on your motorcycle, and the drain bowl tubes were blocked (or not there), then the excess fuel rises up past the overflows and out into the engine :pinch:

Sniff your oil, and make sure the level has not increased or thinned out at all.
If it smells like gas, or has risen considerably - then your oil is contaminated with fuel and will have to be dumped and changed with fresh stuff before runnin the bike for anything.

Another annoying fact by tek..

Peace.

hi tek

you're all stars! * thank you everyone.

such a busy day. been out of the city all
day! sadly not had a chance of working
on my bike. i will be able tomorrow

i've just had a sniff of my bikes oil top
and you're correct. it smells like a
cup of gas. i will change the oil and filter
tomorrow. my new motor (from missouri!)
has been in storage for years. it has only
done 6,600, it will have a lot of old stuff
inside. surely it would contribute to the
plugs color!

do you guys ever buy 10w40 engine oil
in bulk from costco? i'm a member in the
uk. the first oil that i put in my bike
is rock, semi mineral oil 10w40. it's
expensive. i will do a search on the
kzr's oil recommendations.

i read an article on the web about a
biker who has a 4 cyl bike that starts on
3 cyls and then the 4th cyl then kicks in
eventually.

i will have a look at setting the 40 degrees
tomorrow, also check the ht, cap and plug
for the cold pipe prob.

i will take some photos and then upload
for visual advice etc.

many thanks

Angel

steelhorseangel wrote: hi tek

you're all stars! * thank you everyone.

such a busy day. been out of the city all
day! sadly not had a chance of working
on my bike. i will be able tomorrow

i've just had a sniff of my bikes oil top
and you're correct. it smells like a
cup of gas. i will change the oil and filter
tomorrow. my new motor (from missouri!)
has been in storage for years. it has only
done 6,600, it will have a lot of old stuff
inside. surely it would contribute to the
plugs color!

do you guys ever buy 10w40 engine oil
in bulk from costco? i'm a member in the
uk. the first oil that i put in my bike
is rock, semi mineral oil 10w40. it's
expensive. i will do a search on the
kzr's oil recommendations.

i read an article on the web about a
biker who has a 4 cyl bike that starts on
3 cyls and then the 4th cyl then kicks in
eventually.

i will have a look at setting the 40 degrees
tomorrow, also check the ht, cap and plug
for the cold pipe prob.

i will take some photos and then upload
for visual advice etc.

many thanks

Angel

Thanks

I figured you've dumped quite abit of gas in there... :pinch:

The thing is, if you just replace the oil and the carbs overflow again, well then you've just wasted all that nice fresh oil
You have to make sure that the carbs are not overflowing. Make certain to have the overflow tubes on the carb bowls clean. You already did the fuel height test/setting, so they are probly ok. Make sure to always turn petcock to "OFF" or use in the "ON" or "RES" position, if there is no OFF position. No "OFF" position means it is a vacuum petcock that will only flow when the engine is running.

After many trial and errors/testing, etc. I have settled on Rotella 5W40 Full Synthetic Diesel oil.
Why a diesel oil you ask? Because it doesnt have any friction modifiers/detergents that regular motor oils have for catalytic converters. + The diesel oil takes an incredible beating and stays nice and consistantly thick, rite to the end of its life and beyond.

I have a Costco membership here in Canada also. Save me lots of money over the years...

The guy with one cylinder that eventually kicks in has a bike that is just not tuned correctly, PERIOD. It is either way out of sync, tune, or dumping oil and needs to blow it out before firing, etc. Dont bother with that - your bike is going to start and run excellent! Just give it some time.

Good luck!

hi tek

what an motor lifesaver you're,
a big thank you.

am i correct in saying that because
excess (non firing) fuel has found itself
in the engine. the oil has been diluted.
thanks to you, i've not attempted to
start and time my bike today. i need
to replace the oil and filter.
where i live, there are no bike shops.
no where to buy motorcycle oil/filter.
i do drive a vw mk 4 golf gt tdi which uses
long life fully synthetic oil. i've a brand new
4L container of this. the spec is 00 30.

i've no ordered a 20L drum of gulf (chevron/shell)
power track 4t. it's JASO MA, SAE 10W40
approved for none clutch slip. i didn't
no that you could use diesel oil.

the reason for the excessive gas in the engine
was partly my fault. what i did was to buy
a temporary gas tank, gravity fed, with an
on/off fuel tap. i want to adj the mixture,
balance my carbs etc. it's easier to do with
a temp tank. i've never used one of these
before and filled the carbs, forgetting
to turn off the gas. the temp tank, being
gravity fed, filled the carbs etc too quickly.

this is how you learn. i bought a brilliant
inline fuel (40 microns) filter. you can
take it apart and clean it, comes with
a clear glass tubular window. price is $10.5!

an oil expert told me today that rock 10w40
mineral oil, is ok, but not the best oil.
he advised a semi/full synthetic oil.
to use diesal oil, sounds a lot cheaper/
better.

Q) what about the approved JASO MA?
for the clutch slip problems?

i wont do anything to my bike
until i do an oil/filter change.
to try and use the contaminated oil
will damage my motor.

what bike do you've tek?

thanks for helping me tek!

Angel
((( hug)))

That oil (JASO MA), sound like it will be just fine.

The carbs stop all fuel flow on thier own (when working properly), so using a temp fuel tank is not what caused the fuel flooding, it was the carbs not doing thier job. We use temp fuel tanks all the time for normal tuning and fuel height setting/etc. So dont blame yourself - we all learn this the hard way the first time - and some blow up thier motors! :pinch:

As for my current machines, just check my sig info below my posts.

You're welcome!

hi ya all!

here is 'eric' starting up!





the mechanic is alan i told you about!

regards

Angel