No spark at the POINTS??

The two fiber washers are supposed to allow connecting both wires to the flat spring without grounding against anything, so while the points are open, neither wire is reaching ground.

Thereafter, when the points close, the circuit completes across the contacts, whereby both wires reach ground.

Good Fortune!

yea...kinda figuered something along those lines after reading manual and lookin at it for a while...

when i pulled the whole plate out one time it was sparking against the sides...and the points where not connected at the time....forgot to turn off bike first

Because the coils are basically on all the time when the key is on (by design), you are basically cooking them while they are not in use.

Try not to forget the ignition in the on position without it running on any vehicle in the future, as it is really not good.



Good luck.

^^^^ I was under the impression the the coil is on ON or active with power to it by the points touchin or connected??

so since the points only touch for a second and they have to go threw full open and then full close stroke.....the points are like open 90% of the time....

and that would mean the yellow red wire to coil IN would always have power in it for the coil....but the blue wire would only complete the curcit when the points closes...



AM i correct???

Correct, on the coils being energized only if the points are closed, but on KZ's, the points have about 180 degrees of dwell on the crankshaft. So it is more like 50% closed, and 50% open.

Depending on how the points are set, there is a chance the motor will be in a position such that both coils will be on or off, but the chances of that are much less likely.

Incidently, the dwell on a Dyna S is much closer to 360 degrees (somewhere between 300 and 360) so it would be likely that both coils will be energized with the Dyna S, if you leave the ignition on without the motor turning.

Thanx bud^^^

just wanted to make sure i understood how things are workin and whatnot...


i remember to watch out for Key ON more often...

The "Kill Switch" on the right handlebar switch pod(the run/stop switch) will stop any current flow to the coils to stop any chance of coil cooking.

Now thats good to know!!


thanx

It may help to think of the battery++ (not points) as the coil's power source.

The points simply afford grounding and ungrounding.

Good Fortune!

**Update**

so i changed out the points and condencer i picked up from Z1..i checked it for power in the plug cap and got voltage in the ON and OFF type fasion ur supposed to get...First time i ever got some juice at the caps....So i popped a plug into it and grounded it and finally got it to spark!!!

Wow that was a long journey!!...basically a total rewire from the ignition problems to the grounding of the points...

so i at least i got it to turn over and run for a few seconds....I have a bad starter to go along with it now...But i knew that already...it turns the bike over but after like 2 turns it kicks off turning the bike and just spins and makes a kinda grinding sound...so the starter drive is not working correctly..i think the spring is weak...
i was not really worring to much about it due to the fact it has a kickstart...but i was kicking it and that kinda does nothing to turn the bike over...?? its strange as the kickstart is really easy to kick and does nothing kinda...

anyone have any thoughts as to that issue?

Thanx again for all the advice all!!

Huge help everyone

the kicker thing may be clutch related(stuck/adjustment?)

On some models you need to pull in the clutch to use the starter, but you must release the clutch in nuetral to fire the bike with the kicker.