No spark at the POINTS??

TeK9iNe wrote:

stonemaster wrote:

+1 on that, I usually can tell by color of the spark, but bench testing is ALWAYS better, ditto on the battery charge as well, had fits on my other bike with charging and am up on that one,
one thing I've figured out over the years, alot of time its not just one problem when u start working though a PO bike, there's usually more than one contributor to the same problem

You say usually, like you don't mean EVERY DAMN TIME!

:laugh:

bad choice of words EXCUSE ME :blink: :blush:

stonemaster wrote:

TeK9iNe wrote:

stonemaster wrote:

+1 on that, I usually can tell by color of the spark, but bench testing is ALWAYS better, ditto on the battery charge as well, had fits on my other bike with charging and am up on that one,
one thing I've figured out over the years, alot of time its not just one problem when u start working though a PO bike, there's usually more than one contributor to the same problem

You say usually, like you don't mean EVERY DAMN TIME!

:laugh:

bad choice of words EXCUSE ME :blink: :blush:

LOL, its all good.

Peace

first...thanx for hitin up my thread everyone...great readin material on a sunday morning!!

i am use a volt meter...which i would assume is a DVOM..as it was reffered to...

And i have been doing all this testing with a semi new batt....BUT I ALWAYS HAVE A CARGER CONNECTED TO THE BATT.

SO...i think it was like very high amount of voltage at the coil "IN" wires......more then enough

i put a plug in one of the caps just to be sure and still saw no spark jump at the bottom....and i was holding it all in my hand and felt nothing also...guess i forget it would give me a lil jump....wish it did at this point..

so ill OEM test the could now as it out of the bike and go from there...

and just checked Z1 enterprises for a replacement..just incase as i am in front of the comp. now...

do yall know what my OEM's are for my coil?...manual says like 4ish i think?...is that exactly what they are reffering to when i purchase?

i tried to shop that site by model...but my 79 is not listed...it starts from 1980 and newer...sux

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=2094 &
www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1335
Would be what to order.
So you have a DVOM/ Digital Volt Ohm Meter.

Put your DVOM on to the lowest OHM scale, Maybe Rx1 or Rx10, then attach 1 lead to the blue wire that goes to the points, the other to Chassis ground like the engine block. Rotate engine by hand with the kick start slowly, key off. You should get continuity and then none, then continuity again. This shows that the points are in dead making and breaking the connection. Still like the test light in the circuit where the coil was, and watch it flash when engine is spun, with key on. Then it carry's some current.

ok...lil bit confused on proper testing for some resistance for the coil

when i test the coil in the plug caps i get nothing...

but when i test at the input of power and ground wires(yellow and blue) i get like 4OEMS...

i should get something at the plug caps correct??

and is the 4 at the power and ground sound correct?

i have an old coil i replaced for my jetski(that i know is good when i did a full MSD upgrade) and wondered if reading would be kinda close....so i tested the power and ground and i had a lil resistance...but in the caps i got nothing again...and i know that coil is good....why no resistance is why im confused...
i should have resistance at the pulg caps on my Bike coil correct??

thanks!

^^motorhead...Thanx for taking the time to put up the links

got em saved info my favorites for later use....good prices also


i did clean up and properly gap the points a few days ago just to be sure....but ill still check it again

I'm just trying to get you to check the points operation, the circuit from points to coil. Not saying you have this problem, but, I have seen the wire post on the points have the insulator miss assembled, even a new set had this before. But it only takes a minute to check that they are making and breaking contact at the coil terminal wire.

^^understood bud....

rechecked manual and retested to be sure...

get resistance in primary winding...about 4ohm with the meter set at 200...that my lowest setting on my meter...200 then 2000 and so on...

but i get nothing at any setting when i hit both plugs...

new coil id say

For the secondary resistance test you would need to reset your meter, to 10K or higher.
Have you tried a bench test of the coil as technine suggested?

bgmrc wrote:

i am use a volt meter...which i would assume is a DVOM..as it was reffered to...

I believe that stands for Digital Volt Ohm Meter.

And i have been doing all this testing with a semi new batt....BUT I ALWAYS HAVE A CARGER CONNECTED TO THE BATT.

Good idea to keep the battery fully charged, but that is no guarantee that the battery is good. A charger will not fix a broken battery. I really hope you made all the tests without the charger hooked up, otherwise you probably should do them again to insure how much BATTERY voltage is getting through the system.

SO...i think it was like very high amount of voltage at the coil "IN" wires......more then enough

How much is "high amount"? More than a couple of tenths lower than battery (not charger) voltage is enough to cause problems.

i put a plug in one of the caps just to be sure and still saw no spark jump at the bottom....and i was holding it all in my hand and felt nothing also...guess i forget it would give me a lil jump....wish it did at this point..

Was the plug grounded during this procedure? If not, no spark even if all is good. Same with you. If you were not grounded, no shock. BTW, I'd personally avoid that particular test procedure, even an old coil can hurt. :blink:

If the FSM is not clear as to proper resistance in the coils, just call the folks at Z1, they are really helpful.

so ill OEM test the could now as it out of the bike and go from there...[/quote]