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Coil Mod: Why it’s Not a Recommended Solution
- hardr0ck68
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- Who put the what in the where?
"spaghetti Tangle"? It's only ONE wire, Red/Yellow in most situations. Two wires if you count the ground from the points. That is the only wire you have to worry about. :dry:
I don't know the condition of your bike, please don't assume to know the condition of mine. I have had an alarm system added in the past by a PO the alarm is gone now but the cuts and splices remain, I have had to replace parts of the harness melted by a rectifier death, there is a o2 sensor wired in adding to the mess that all with some other issues means my wire harness is a first rate mess.
I know I am in need of an electrical overhaul, but just cleaning the connectors won't fix my issues. Have you ever un-wrapped a factory splice? I did and found a corroded mess, there are at least 3 other splices like that one, also when I strip back new insulation to find green chalky wire I know there are far reaching issues.
So while I deal with other issues on my bike the WG coil mod keeps me riding and happy.
Not all of us are pensioners with all the time in the world!
1977 kz650 c1
bought it because I was told it would never run again...I like to prove people wrong.
- otakar
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74 Z1-A stock
76 KZ-900 Totaly stock vice MAC pipe
77 KZ-1000A stock
78 Z1-R 100%MINT 500 original Mi.
78 Z1-R Yoshi 1103 kit stage 1 cams Yoshi pipe. Etc
79 KZ-1300 (1400)
80 KZ-1300
81 Scratch built GPz1150R
82 KZ1000
- Old Man Rock
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For others, Here's how simple this is....
Using 16awg conductor.
1) ~ 10" conductor from Battery to new inline rubber booted Spaded fuse holder (20amp spade).
2) ~ 3' from fuse holder up to ignition switch. De-solder white conductor and solder in new conductor. No need to remove white conductor from harness, just tape off the ends and leave as is...
3) If ignition switch is truly bad with large voltage drop, then replace (Z1 under $20)for slightly more then what you paid for the relay... :S
4) Chances are all is good now but replace a couple new conductors to your coils off the ignition switch brown conductor if required...
All done and the rest of your system is up to speed as well, especially if you have electronic ignition...
No need to even go into the harness for you tie wrap the new conductors to the main harness.
Just makes logical sense if you have to wire in a fuse holder, relay and other conductors, why not insure the rest of your electrical system benefits as well...
OMR
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
- richard head
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- Old Man Rock
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As for tracing shorted broken conductors, nope again for your replacing them with new conductors...
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
- richard head
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Nope, just an easy bypass. Very simple and works like a champ !\"The fact is, the coil mod works\"... Only true in the sense of applying battery voltage to coils, otherwise incorrect statement...
As for tracing shorted broken conductors, nope again for your replacing them with new conductors...
- Old Man Rock
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But as you just proved the write up contents, you still have broken, open, shorted conductors in your electrical harness... Your words not mine so not trying to start a flame war here.
With that in mind, as written in the write up, you have battery voltage to your coils so doubtful you have a short for all this "Spaghetti" still all feeds back to the battery, maybe some partial shorting possibly, where the rest of your electrical system is below specification...
Thanks for proving my point... :laugh:
All Ohms Law folks, just the way it works...
OMR
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
- richard head
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- Old Man Rock
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- Posts: 6224
- Thank you received: 225
As for the others who asked and want to actually correct their KZ's problem/issue, then fix it correctly...
As for the tire, assuming it's not just low on ai and go with the two options you provided, no brainer, replace the tire for at speeds up triple digits, patching is not an option...
But I will add for in an emergency to get the old girl home, if a patch is all I have, then sure I would patch... But once again there sunshine, as also written in an emergency, sure but not as a permanent fix...
OMR
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
- hardr0ck68
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- Who put the what in the where?
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Nope, don't have a problem at all, your KZ do what you want. As written numerous times, you happy with a bypassed fix, cool good for you.
As for the others who asked and want to actually correct their KZ's problem/issue, then fix it correctly...
As for the tire, assuming it's not just low on ai and go with the two options you provided, no brainer, replace the tire for at speeds up triple digits, patching is not an option...
But I will add for in an emergency to get the old girl home, if a patch is all I have, then sure I would patch... But once again there sunshine, as also written in an emergency, sure but not as a permanent fix...
OMR
Stop acting like a holier than thou ass-hat! I bought my kz for the grand total of $125.00 and I know I over paid. It was a wreck and a total mess, but now I turn the key and go anywhere any time. The coil mod, and advice from this board helped me do that.
There are more than one ways to skin a cat, and your un-acceptance and arrogance is truly offensive. Many people buy these old bikes because they are cheap fun, not to build and brag like you Loud Mouth Rock (LMR?).
When you showed up you did not know your ass from a hole in the ground, now you preach like you know it all... if it works for folks don't give them a hard time. You rattle canned your body work, a rattle can is the definition of half asses to many people so give it a break!
People don't come here for a sermon, we come here for help and ideas.
1977 kz650 c1
bought it because I was told it would never run again...I like to prove people wrong.
- richard head
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- Old Man Rock
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As for a know it all, naw for example when it comes to head/valve work.., Out of my league other then posting questions regarding whom to send it to...
Same with a lot of other areas... See this is what the site is about, share the wealth of knowledge in learning these old KZ's and what you can learn off some of the others who have been working on them for quite some time..
Hardrock, Aren't you the one who said "Nothing but the best in your 14K rpm build, money is no object, do it right" blah-blah-blah... Right....
So listen up you little douche bag... This is my post and you felt the need to jump in and add your smart ass bull shit as always...
Don't like it then STFU and get out of the posting, pretty simple.
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az