Dyna S DS2-1 Installation Tutorial by OMR

Im just messing with you man, it was a good toot. Just figure it could have been .... simpler:P

That was more simple than the Dyna instructions

nads.com wrote:

AND. quit pickin on that 13mm nut! It didnt do anything. Why dont we just cut to the quick and chew the nut off with our teeth and say there! I knew it! I knew it!WEAK I can look real hard at mine and it starts melting down.

just for the record that is in fact a bolt!! my 2 cents

Checking your charging system to ensure it's not overcharging.

... Excellent point Jeff, kuddo's!

Now onto Carb synching...

Old Man Rock wrote:

...Now onto Carb synching...,

Some "sync" semantics for possible consideration.

While others may disagree, or prefer for themselves a more limited definition, I believe the term "sync" may be correctly used in at least two different contexts.

My thinking of "sync" in the context of "bench sync" refers to adjusting all the throttle slide heights to the same vertical position so that the slides are equal distance from closing. It's referred to in some manuals as "mechanical sync."

With regard to "bench sync" being deemed as a poor man's way to sync carbs, perhaps it's the best sync a poor man can manage without having vacuum gauges or a manometer available.

And that the term "sync" in the context of "carb sync" (or vacuum sync) refers to thereafter adjusting the respective throttle slide heights to equalize vacuum among the carbs (including pilot screw adjustments).

The above concepts of "bench sync" (mechanical sync) and "carb sync" (vacuum sync) are believed consistant with the manuals refering to "Initial Synchronization-Mechanical" needed to "synchronize the throttle slides."

And thereafter making the "Idling Adjustment" by turning pilot screws equal turns out from lightly seated (for example 1.5 turns) per KHI specs.

Then setting idle rpm with the thumb screw.

Stopping here "may obtain a satisfactory result" (per FSM). So here the poor man's sync is almost done.

And the manuals continue with the "Pilot Screw Adjustment" "for more precise adjustment of engine idle mixture" (individual adjustments of the pilot screws for best idle). Now the poor man's sync is done.

And lastly "Fine Synchronization-Vacuum" with gauges or manometer.

I've not seen the specific phrase "bench sync" used in KHI's FSM or in the Sudco manual when describing mechanical sync, but the manuals instead refer to "carbs disassembled" or "on the workbench." For Mikuni smoothbore carbs the Sudco manual recommends against vacuum sync and suggests only using the mechanical sync while carbs are disassembled on the workbench. Meanwhile, many of us smoothbore fans proceed with and do perfectly well with the vacuum sync.

Not endeavoring to impose my understanding of the term sync in the realm of sync-talking. Just suggesting that some uses of the term sync may differ in context.

Looking forward to forthcoming presentation.

Good Luck!

WTF (Way To Fun), I'm hi-jacking my own post! :laugh:

But since you brought it up I'm game....

As some of you have come across the same, the Keihn literature is whacked (screwed up). They mix and match different carbs (FCR, CR, PWK, PJ, PE) different adjustment screw names and depictions you name it, all in the same procedure... Hard to follow.... :S

Example: Excerpt....
Idle:
Set idle speed to proper r.p.m, by adjusting the IDLE SPEED SCREW. Turn the IDLE MIXTURE SCREW or the AIR SCREW to for correct procedure, achieve highest speed and best response. The IDLE MIXTURE SCREW (FCR) controls fuel delivery to the idle port and the SCREW is located on the engine side of the carburetor slide. Turning the IDLE MIXTURE SCREW out will make idle and off-idle richer. Turning IDLE MIXTURE SCREW (CR, PWK, PJ, PE) controls the amount of air to the IDLE and SLOW CIRCUIT. This SCREW is located on the air cleaner side of the throttle slide and turning the SCREW out will lean the mixture and turning the SCREW in (clockwise) will richen the mixture.

This is not modified, exact copy and paste.... Right....

Edit: BTW, not bench synching, carbies are on the bike, proper idle & vacuum gauge synching is what I'm looking for....

OMR

Well my upgrade is off to a bad start. Some one else has been inside the cover and the 3 screw are stripped. I can not get them out. Any ideas to get them out?

Please and thanks

Darryl wrote:

Well my upgrade is off to a bad start. Some one else has been inside the cover and the 3 screw are stripped. I can not get them out. Any ideas to get them out?

Please and thanks

Presumably referencing the three screws which affix the round backing plate in position.

Just the screws, or are the female threads inside the case also stripped? All three holes? Any pieces of any screws remaining inside any case holes?

If the case holes are stripped, there may be sufficient surrounding material to re-tap for slightly larger size screws.

Where screw is broken off inside case, extraction would be first necessary.

Good Luck!

Nice job OMR, You make me want to step away from the old points & condensers.

Hi, no just the screws are stripped. They are in their tight. I just got back from the tool store with a screw extractor, it did not work. Right now it would have been cheaper to buy a new housing. lol

Darryl wrote:

Hi, no just the screws are stripped. They are in their tight. I just got back from the tool store with a screw extractor, it did not work. Right now it would have been cheaper to buy a new housing. lol

Trying to get a mental picture here.

Is it that the screw heads are wallowed out so a screw driver can't get a grip on the screw heads to turn them out?

And the screws with the wallowed out heads are still screwed in there tightly holding the existing base plate in position?

The screw shafts are pretty thin to be trying to center drill a starting hole for the extractor to fit into. Did the extractor break off inside the area being worked on? Or what's the reason for its failure?

What is the situation now? Does it appear that a small "reverse" drill bit could be used to bore out the screw?

If the base plate will pull away over the mangled screw heads, is there enough of the threaded shank exposed to get a grip on? Sometimes it helps to heat the area surrounding the hole immediately before attempting to twist out the mangled screw.

Is a photo available that could be posted?

Good Luck!

find and use left hand drill bits they are the bomb diggity for removing stripped out screws and if they don't quite do it try vise grips