TOPIC:

When I used to work on General Aviation aircraft we would use the MS29513 series o-rings. These are fuel resistant and I used them in my GPZ carbs. They can be purchased at almost any aviation supply place like Wicks Aircraft Parts or Aircraft Spruce. Some FBO's may even stock them too.

A local motorcycle shop had the correct size.  They looked to the carbs and suggested I do a better job of cleaning, so I have since got the K&L carb kit for the carbs/bike.  They sure ask a lot for kit$ without all the Orings you need,

I am scrubbing everything more thoroughly now but cannot get the valve seat out to replace the Oring and I suppose the seat itself as it gets marred up. 
Any tips to getting the seats out without making a mess?  They rotate but will not pullout.

wrote:

A local motorcycle shop had the correct size.  They looked to the carbs and suggested I do a better job of cleaning, so I have since got the K&L carb kit for the carbs/bike.  They sure ask a lot for kit$ without all the Orings you need,

I am scrubbing everything more thoroughly now but cannot get the valve seat out to replace the Oring and I suppose the seat itself as it gets marred up. 
Any tips to getting the seats out without making a mess?  They rotate but will not pullout.

Heat will help soften the varnish and melt the rock hard O-ring.  Go easy with the pliers on the seat, or you will crush it.  And keep the needle and seat together, don't mix.

Thank you for the help in this thread, work seems to be getting in the way of my progress... 

I have a new needle and seat in the rebuild kit but the original needle has no wear. 
Should I just clean and re-oring the original parts?

wrote:

Thank you for the help in this thread, work seems to be getting in the way of my progress... 

I have a new needle and seat in the rebuild kit but the original needle has no wear. 
Should I just clean and re-oring the original parts?

If the original brass is in good condition, I'd use it.  Can't say I'm a big fan of K&L.  For one thing, in their Mikuni kits, the float needle spring is too weak to hold up the float.  Not sure about their TK parts, though.

wrote:

wrote:

A local motorcycle shop had the correct size.  They looked to the carbs and suggested I do a better job of cleaning, so I have since got the K&L carb kit for the carbs/bike.  They sure ask a lot for kit$ without all the Orings you need,

I am scrubbing everything more thoroughly now but cannot get the valve seat out to replace the Oring and I suppose the seat itself as it gets marred up. 
Any tips to getting the seats out without making a mess?  They rotate but will not pullout.

Heat will help soften the varnish and melt the rock hard O-ring.  Go easy with the pliers on the seat, or you will crush it.  And keep the needle and seat together, don't mix.

Heat was the answer!  More Orings to replace.  3 more per carb and it should be ready to hit the starter soon.

I have read varying opinions on installing a fuel filter after the petcock.  See through metal mesh or stock without?
 

Carbs cleaned as clean as I can get them, including the gasket channels on the bowls, all new properly fitting Orings.  Got it all installed and put the petcock on Prime then to Reserve.
Now the new bowl Oring/gaskets are leaking.  Son mentioned that the gaskets seemed a little small and did not fall into the grooves of the bowl very well, but he thought he got them to work out.  No dice, 2 bowls leaked and dripped until I pulled the fuel line and drained the bowls with the drain screw. Gave up for the night but will disassemble in the morning. Floats were set to 27mm per the service manual. 

Anything I might be missing, or do I just need to find a better brand than K&L to get bowl gaskets from that fit properly?

I'm not sure, having not seen what you are dealing with, but I recommend using a dot cyanoacrylate adhesive (super glue) in the float bowl groove at each corner, to hold the O-ring.  Use tape to hold the O-ring down until the adhesive drys.  This works for the CV34's on the 750/4 bikes anyway.

So, there is a groove for a round gasket in the bowl, old one was flat and hard.  Attached image.

So, I got more bowl O-rings and used the 'superglue' fix.  Still have one carb bowl leaking from one corner.  
Is there any fuel resistant RTV to end this leaking/dripping gasoline problem?  This problem is getting old... 

I use a dab of grease to hold the o rings in place long enough to get the bowls on . Just smear a bit all along the bowl groove then put the o ring in .