TOPIC:

Help. I have determined that I have a bad intake holder and was able to replace three but one is just locked on. I really don't want to take it to a shop. But going through the pain of taking the carbs off again and and getting it off myself would be better. So 1st question as I look for a replacement for this one holder, If I am sitting on the bike looking down on the carburator, the Holder on FAR right is the culprit. I know this may sound dumb but would this be considered the right side? Just want to make sure.   

2 question is how to get this screw off so I can replace the Holder? Always apprecaaite the help. 

Orientation is with the rider on the bike. Far right is #4 cylinder. If you can get the lower screw out try to twist the carb holder counterclockwise. You can try an impact driver. You need a #3 JIS bit. Also you can grind a slot in the head and use a large flat blade screwdriver. Heat will help but only from a propane torch. Before you try any of this soak it with a good penetrating oil such as Kroil. 

 

You need a hand impact driver. You can get one at a auto parts store.
Steve
 

I agree with all mikaw said.  Pull the carbs hit the screw with some kind of penetrating oil (Kroil does work very well but it is rather expensive compared to some others). The screw appears to be one that will need to be replaced with a new one after removal.  You may be able to grab the screw head with a pair if channel lock or like tool and turn it out.

As a last resort, If you have room, it would make it easier to get the penetrating oil to the threads if you drill the head of the screw and remove the holder. You will still have a bit of screw to grab with vicegrips. That may not be possible depending upon the drill you have available. In the ideal situation the screw would be oriented in a vertical position so the oil could really soak in. Kroil and heat are a wondrous thing!

Mike

One thing I haven't seen mentioned here yet, I have always found with these type of fixings using a flat ended drift or old socket extension give the head of the screw a good smack square on. This often release some of the tension on the threads and helps getting it out
PS: when I say a good smack common sense should prevail 

What you need to do is to break the corrosion/threadlock between the head and the screw. Easiest way to do that is heat the screw with a gas torch then immediately spray with water to cool it right down. Do this 3 or 4 times. As the screw is steel and the head is alloy they expand and contract at different rates. The multiple expansion and contraction rate changes will break any seal holding it in.
I have never had a nut, bolt or screw which hasn't then undone very easily using this method. 

Whatever you do at this point MUST be done with the carbs removed. You need the best access possible and patience. Ham fisting it at this point can lead to grief. All the advice given above is excellent.
Heres what I would do in addition to the steps above. With carbs removed, I would remove as much of the carb holder as possible, it’s half aluminum half rubber. (And if the other screw is out, try rotating it counter clockwise.)
First take a sharp center punch and punch the side of the screw head with dots moving in a counter clockwise direction. It just may start to move.

If that doesn’t work, cut a straight slot in the screw head with a hack saw blade so that it will accept a straight slotted 1/4 inch screw gun tip. Then hopefully you have or can borrow and 'impact screw gun'. It will gently hammer and unscrew that bolt. (A large impact hammer may spin the head off the bolt). I did this exact method using an impact screw gun getting my muffler off a 45 year old snow blower. There’s great satisfaction when the bugger starts moving,

wrote:

What you need to do is to break the corrosion/threadlock between the head and the screw. Easiest way to do that is heat the screw with a gas torch then immediately spray with water to cool it right down. Do this 3 or 4 times. As the screw is steel and the head is alloy they expand and contract at different rates. The multiple expansion and contraction rate changes will break any seal holding it in.
I have never had a nut, bolt or screw which hasn't then undone very easily using this method. 


+1 for that in fact I often go one step further using a freezing spray with straw for a direct hit on the fastener, patience is the key, if it doesn't work try again don't give up, never had to go beyond three attempts. 
 

Remove the carbs for sure.  I wouldn't even attempt to remove those screws with the carbs attached.

I wouldn't bother with the penetrating lubricant, it won't reach the threads.  

With the carbs removed, it's easy to remove the screw shown using vice grips.  Grab the screw around the outside to crack it loose.  It's the inner screws that are more difficult; as mentioned already, try spinning the boot after the outside screw is out.  An impact driver is the way to go if you have room, of course.  But having room is not always the case.

I have a set of battery terminal pliers for stuff like that.

www.amazon.com/STEELMAN-77020-Battery-Te...Pliers/dp/B00MHT89CI

wrote:

Kidkawie post=871037

I have a set of battery terminal pliers for stuff like that.

www.amazon.com/STEELMAN-77020-Battery-Te...Pliers/dp/B00MHT89CI

Those battery terminal pliers look the bomb for this problem.
And whatever tools you use, especially cross heads, they must be sharp. A set I’d din Vessel screwdrivers would have prevented this from the start.