Carb question/identification.

So the parts were already all mixed up when I got it, not much I can do there.  I should have mentioned, there are no slides to the 24s. Just the stuck one.   The slides I have go to the 26s which came disassembled and mixed up.  

One that was stuck  has been soaked repeatedly in multiple things, and pried and everything else.  It's not coming out. It's already been dinged up so the carb is trashed.  It was both regular, and some special fancy carb cleaner that's made to get stuck slides out, there was some different things used to try and dissolve the oxidation, there was penetrators there was solvents.  And then as I said there was brute Force none of which worked.  On the other one, the 26 is, they were stuck but just a little bit of soaking some normal carb cleaner got them out no problem, and the slides are in perfect condition.   That's what I figured, I wasn't planning on putting anything in there but I had just seen a few people who had done something like that so wondered what products people use if they do.  I never run ethanol but I mean this bike is 45 yrs old. So, someone else prolly has.   

I understand I won't get performance, but I'm not wanting to buy a a new carb and a bunch of parts to make the carbs to. Probably would be just the same to get a full new set.  So I'm going to just use the vm26, since i don't have a full set of 24s, and I'd have to buy, so ill be selling the 3 vm24 bodies to help fund it.  I may do some work to the bore to make them have more performance, at some point, so having the vm26 already on will be good.  I'll just have to play with jetting or whatever to make them shoot the same as the others.   
you say cost?  What cost do you mean?  I already have to buy new boots as the old ones are old, so. I'd have to buy those anyway.  Are there other mods that need to be done? Again, I'm okay with not gaining anything. I'm just trying to get it running, and will go from thete.  Modding a set of boots and playing with jetting are small potatos, imo, and aside from the boots, the jets, and the gaskets i already have, it would probably cost much less for me to just make the VM 26s work instead of trying to get the VM 24s to work. 
 My question was simply an aside, as, "while I'm in there, without messing with the bore, is there anything that WILL see an upgrade from them"   I understand that without a bore upgrade I'm not going to see anything significant.  Mainly was just asking if there was anything to couple with it while being mostly stock that would give me a few hrsprs
And to be honest, everything I've already bought for it and the things I will need to buy as I go, I just don't want to spend a bunch of money on the carbs when I have a perfectly functioning set, and I know, if I sold it that would probably take up the cost, but then if I wanted to do bore work, I'm back to finding them and extra costs. 

I meant loosely, as in they had been taken off and just put back on for transport to me.  They were disassembled, or well, the slides had been removed, with the exception of the one., Which has been stuck.    They weren't ever running like that.  So the loosely part was irrelevant, sorry.  

Yes okay perfect that's what I was double checking. That's what the reading I had done said. I will likely eventually do some work to the bore and go for some performance stuff so I'm going to go ahead and just get rid of the three 24 bodies, and do the 26 mod.

Do you have a recommendation for jets starting out, assuming everything is going to remain stock for the time?  Including stock air box and filter, stock exhaust etc.  I know I will likely have to play with it just depending, but. Any good starting places you'd recommend for jet sizes and needle position?  

Yes, I'm aware, the VM 24s are what came on the bike.
My question was mainly geared towards not wanting to have to try and find the correct vm24 carb by all new slides all new gear everything for that set of carbs. I just want to be able to use the VM 26s. 
I understand I'm not going to get a performance upgrade and I understand that I may have to fiddle around with it and do some like modifications which is perfectly fine by me
I do plan to do some more work in the future, as once I get the bike back together and running and going good I plan to do some major changes to it. I just need to get it back to stock and running so I can get the antique plates and title.  

I think it is dependent upon which set of vm26ss carbs you have.  Do they have an air screw, an pilot screw or both? In the past there were several members on the kz650.info site that installed the 26s on their 650s and noted and increase in the upper end of the rpm range. 

As to setting up the 26s I would suggest using the stock settings and go from there as long as you are keeping the stock air box and exhaust.

Hi, are your carbs, air Agustin on side or on the bottom with the bowl?
and if? Which side? As there are 2 sides each, that saying! I have some parts couple had brass choke tubes broke. So I have 1 good body with adjuster on bottom. Also some perfect slides all 4 with all the brass items. If your looking to fix your originals.
marty in Buffalo

I do not know, without pulling out charts and everything. There are pictures of all sides of the 26, but if you need a pic of the vm24, I'll take them when hoE.   and if you need a picture of the bowls or anything I can show you that also. 
here are pics of the bowl 
I believe, the carb that is damaged is and outside one, but I would have to look at some diagrams and put them in order.  Again everything came in pieces.  The carbs were put together in their framing or whatever you would like to call it so they were still all attached together but like these slides and the bowls and all of that had been removed. They did take the 24s and just throw the balls and stuff back on it real quick and and slap it on loosely just for transportation but.  


That is how the bowls on both of them look.  
Sorry I just don't know a whole lot about engines and this bike is essentially going to be my engine class LOL. I'm using it to learn I am fairly mechanically inclined so I'm not really worried about doing any of the work, and if I end up just trashing the whole thing that's not a problem but. I'm trying to put as little money into it as possible to get it back running. Most all of the work is going to be refurbishing as many parts as I can, I'm going to tear down the engine all new gaskets all new hoses.  I'm going to try to reuse as many of the electronics as possible, but will  replace whatever needs to be replaced.  I may have to build a new wiring harness but I already have tons of wire and connectors and everything for building a harness so that wouldn't be too big of a deal.   But I'm just trying to get out of aying for too much, as if I have to put a whole bunch of money into it, once I get the antique status what's in my state it has to be basically stock, it can't look radically different, then I will start tearing it apart and playing with it.  The stuff I learned from rebuilding everything will then go into modifications. I plan on stripping it down to a cafe racer style.   And the reason I need to do that is because the title is in somebody's name who is dead, who sold it to somebody else but they just filled out the title, they did not get new tags for it, and that person is now dead too, and it was in a barn given to a friend of mine by the family of the Dead Guy. I guess the guy who's dead right now who bought it from the original guy was doing a lot of work to it and he just got too old.  Anyway so the title I have has somebody who died like 15 years ago on it, and then on the back it's filled out to somebody who died like 5 years ago, and in my state that title is basically trash now.  Bill of sale doesn't work and the only two avenues I have would be a quiet title, or an antique. They will title antiques with Just a Bill of sale. But again for to be an antique it has to look stock so


 

Zed said they are vm26mm if that helps you. 
there are pics of all sides in original post. 

And awesome, thank you that was my original plan was to just put the stock sizes back in there and see how that does.  

Your vm26's are the Fuel mixture screw type with the screw underneath .
Once you have determined which model 900/1000 they came off by matching the slide cutaway and jet needle code etc to the book specs you should then initially build them with the stock jetting for that model as a baseline.

Ok just went back and read the thread, can now see the 26 bodies and they appear to have only a pilot screw.  I may be able to provide more info about what there stock settings were, not making any promises, if you provide the ID stamped  on the flange below the choke lever (see below) note the pic is a vm24ss carb not a vm26ss carb but the ID is usually stamped in the same location.

Heat is required to remove stuck slides.  Heating the carb body softens the varnish holding the slide in it's bore.

And good news for someone looking for 650 carbs, is the fact that they are plentiful on ebay, for good prices.  

Heat was used as well.  Believe me, we tried everything.  Worked great on the 4 stuck slides in the vm26. But the other one resisted everything we did.    The carb is trashed.  
and yeah, eBay is basically a savior lol.  it's where I've got about everything for the bike so far.  But, I have a set of perfectly good vm26, and I plan to mod the engine in the future, so. No point in buying new carbs. 

So on one side of the flange it says 299, on the other side of the flange it says r67, I provided pictures but the seven is very faint. But the number on the choke side is 299