TOPIC:

wrote:

I use simple green pro HD. It’s aluminum friendly. I dilute it 3 to 1 with water. Spray them down good let them soak for a few and brush them with a nice course nylon brush. That will loosen and remove a lot of the road grime, oil and dirt. I do not have access to an ultrasonic cleaner. And I think the jury is out on the effectiveness of those anyways. I’m sure that will start a debate. They use Barrymen’s carb dip and let them soak usually overnight. Make sure all the passageways are blown clear with brake cleaner. I’ve had good luck with CLR for short soaks to remove any corrosion.

So you soak them in the carb dip and THEN use the carb cleaner?    Probably doesn't hurt to follow up with compressed air, huh?   I think I'm going to use my dawn method for initial cleaning.....I just use that stuff for everything.   Best stuff to wash a dog with too, by the way.  Kills fleas on contact, gentle on their skin, etc.   I digress....
 

Dismantle them without mixing parts from one carb with another and ultrasonic clean them. Then airline All the vents and passages to ensure they are 100%.
Take your time and double check vents and passages etc are clean and clear. Theres nothing worse than putting them back on the bike and still having issues and having to do them again. 

As warren says keep all the parts with their bodies. Disposable food storage tubs work great. 

Ugly....haha....

 

That isn’t that bad. Just gas that’s all varnished up… white corrosion is bad. If the other 3 are similar you’ll be ok. 

In this bore is a spring retention clip, a cylinder shaped weight and a ball bearing, remove them carefully and don’t lose them. See green circle 

Thanks for that!  The clip and pin came right out, but had to spray some carb cleaner in there and let it sit for a while to get the ball out.  I have also ordered the Berryman Chem dip carb cleaner...thanks.

Warner

Carb dip is very effective for cleaning off the varnish.  Wash off with water and blow dry.  I use carb cleaner in a spray can or brake cleaner afterwards, shot into all the internal passages to make sure they are open; shoot in one spot and make sure it flows out where it should.  The choke passages in the float bowl often block up for example so make sure they are open.  And needless to say spray out the pilot circuit passages too.  

wrote:

That isn’t that bad. Just gas that’s all varnished up… white corrosion is bad. If the other 3 are similar you’ll be ok. 

In this bore is a spring retention clip, a cylinder shaped weight and a ball bearing, remove them carefully and don’t lose them. See green circle 

What would the white corrosion indicate?

EDIT:   Found this on white corrosion:
            The "white powder" you see in poorly maintained carbs is the result of water induced corrosion, the reason it's white is because of the high zinc content of the typical carb casting.
              It is impossible to remove completely, I have even tried high powered ultrasonic with little success. If you manage to remove it you will find pits in the casting which in my opinion                scraps the carb.   If you have minor corrosion deposits try CLR or other acid based cleaner, it works well for light residue.


          Warner

See red arrow. This is a very critical ORing. The only place I have been able to find the correct replacement is Redline Cycle in Illinois. Jets-r-us might be another source as long as it OEM Mikuni. The ORings in the Keyster kits are correct also but they are about $38 each kit,
Kind of expenses to buy just to get the ORing. 



 

wrote:

See red arrow. This is a very critical ORing. The only place I have been able to find the correct replacement is Redline Cycle in Illinois. Jets-r-us might be another source as long as it OEM Mikuni. The ORings in the Keyster kits are correct also but they are about $38 each kit,
Kind of expenses to buy just to get the ORing. 



 

Well, I live in Illinois so that's a good thing (from the O-ring perspective, anyway!  Ha!).   Is that something that should be replaced by default?  

                   Thanks for these tips!  Super helpful!

                             Warner

Replacing all ORings and gaskets are default to a proper rebuild. 

Here is a thread discussing a restoration I did on a set of those carbs...

www.kzrider.com/forum/3-carburetor/61501...s-b-vm-carbs?start=0