TOPIC:

Which model carbs are these?  From my 1979 KZ1000 LTD.  Thanks!

      Warner 

 

Mikuni Vm26 accelerator pump. 

That era  1000 LTDs all had   26 mm carbs from the factory
Strong lower end  but lacked the top end of 28s or 29s
Dave

Are these decent or should they be swapped out?

          Warner

Vm26 are fine. If kawasaki thought them good enough for all the first Z 1000's then why change them.
Sure there are carbs which will give better performance but the Z1000 wasn't known as the King of the roads for no reason. 

They appear as mentioned to be 26mm with accelerator pump. Measure the ID of the engine side spigot, will be just over 26mm or 28mm.  Personally I done care for the sensor circuit of the pump on the 26mm.

 

wrote:

They appear as mentioned to be 26mm with accelerator pump. Measure the ID of the engine side spigot, will be just over 26mm or 28mm.  Personally I done care for the sensor circuit of the pump on the 26mm.

 

Actually seem to be about 27mm.....

So it looks like the rebuild kits are about $32 each, correct?   Is this something that I can do myself?   Order 4 of the rebuild kits and rebuild them?    Or is there some magic involved?

                 Thanks,

               Warner


PS - I'm assuming the only way to go is the Mikuni kit, not some knock off....

Kits are not usually necessary. Mostly all the brass will be good. You need to thoroughly clean and inspect them. The big wear items are the float needle, and the needle jet. They will be the most prone to wear. If those items are good everything can be cleaned and reassembled with new gaskets and O-rings. If you do Need any brass items stay with Mikuni brand or a good alternate is Keyster. No real magic or extremely difficult processes involved. It’s basically completing one carburetor and duplicating it three additional times. After they are assembled you will need to bench sync them, and set the float levels (clear tube method). Install them and adjust the pilots for best (highest) idle, and then do a dynamic vacuum synchronization.

EDIt, Theywill need a thorough cleaning. Making sure each and every small passageway is 100% clear. Also check the overflow tubes in the bottom of the carb for cracks sometimes they will hold moisture freeze and crack 
 

wrote:

Kits are not usually necessary. Mostly all the brass will be good. You need to thoroughly clean and inspect them. The big wear items are the float needle, and the needle jet. They will be the most prone to wear. If those items are good everything can be cleaned and reassembled with new gaskets and O-rings. If you do Need any brass items stay with Mikuni brand or a good alternate is Keyster. No real magic or extremely difficult processes involved. It’s basically completing one carburetor and duplicating it three additional times. After they are assembled you will need to bench sync them, and set the float levels (clear tube method). Install them and adjust the pilots for best (highest) idle, and then do a dynamic vacuum synchronization.

EDIt, Theywill need a thorough cleaning. Making sure each and every small passageway is 100% clear. Also check the overflow tubes in the bottom of the carb for cracks sometimes they will hold moisture freeze and crack 

 

I"m sure I'll be reaching out to you and other in the forum when I start this....what's the best way to do the initial cleaning?    I was thinking just a brush in a sink with Dawn.   Just to get all the gunk off.   Then I'm assuming there is a proper way to clean all the internals.....soak them in something?   I'm a total noob on this, and want to do it right the first time.


                           Warner

I use simple green pro HD. It’s aluminum friendly. I dilute it 3 to 1 with water. Spray them down good let them soak for a few and brush them with a nice course nylon brush. That will loosen and remove a lot of the road grime, oil and dirt. I do not have access to an ultrasonic cleaner. And I think the jury is out on the effectiveness of those anyways. I’m sure that will start a debate. They use Barrymen’s carb dip and let them soak usually overnight. Make sure all the passageways are blown clear with brake cleaner. I’ve had good luck with CLR for short soaks to remove any corrosion.

You can get parts at Jet-r-us of if you want new bowl or cap screw go here to Kurt

 

I found what I think will be helpful videos.... 1 -  2 -  3 -