not reving over 2200 rpm

The engine will not rev above about 2200, if I go higher it dies and it idles at about 1100 to 1200 rpm. It only runs with full choke. The carbs were rebuilt and then the bike was put into storage for a year without being run after the rebuild. I have taken the carbs off three times and cleaned them with carb cleaner and compressed air. I made sure all ports and orifices had air coming out. I have some searching on the forum and feel like I have done everything recommended I could find, The bike is hard to start from cold but when warmed up will fire in one or two kicks (starter clutch went out after I replaced the starter and fixed PO wiring hacks). I set the pilot screws from 1 1/4 turn to 2 1/2 turns out with no change. The petcock has been cleaned and rebuilt, the tank has been flushed out and there is an inline filter also.
I have attached a picture of the electronic ignition to see if anyone sees a problem with that. I cleaned the advance before I put it in storage because the spring were so rusted they would not move. It is still the original advance springs and they seem real soft but my only reference for advance springs is a small block Chevy. I have not found how to check if the timing is advancing in the FSM yet.
Please help.

Looks like you're missing the little rubber pieces on the advancer arms. Does it move freely? I'd clean off all the rust on the pickup too.
Steve

That advancer needs some love. If it only runs on full choke the carbs are still clogged up especially the pilot circuits.

I have read on the forum that some people used diesel fuel to soaking the carb bodies.Does this really work? Also how many turns on the idle adjustment screw do I start with? I can not find it in the FSM.
Swest, I looked at the parts diagram and could not see any rubber pieces on the advance arms. Yes the arms move freely. What would be the best thing to use to get rid of the rust? I have some Evaporust, which I think is safe for rubber and plastic.
So the main problem appears to be the carbs clogged, I have read alot of posted from people having this same problem.

Thank You for the help.

This picture is for an inline-four motor, but it shows the "idle rubber stops". Yours appear to be missing.
This will alter the advance timing. As a work-around, you can use a timing light to set the timing on the double lines when the bike is revved. Then the timing at idle will be off a bit from the "F" mark. But it will be safer to run the motor.

If you're lucky, the rubber bits will just be laying inside the ignition housing. They just look like little bits of dirt.

When I got the bike orginally it had been sitting for a longtime and the ignition advanced was so rusted that it was siezed up and the springs were full of rust ( that is why I was asking about springs also).
Any recommendations of what to soak the carb body in?

I don't soak carbs. I've never had to. I just use high pressure water and a bunch of scrub tools. As I get older I shy away from chemicals more and more and find other solutions. I might use a bit of carb cleaner for hard to get spots in the plumbing, but dish detergent and water and compressed air are what I use most. Along with a ton of toothbrushes and industrial bottle brushes. A bunch of guitar strings are great for poking through jets.

Soaking carbs in some magic solution has never worked for me. I currently use an ultrasonic cleaner but as Loudhvx said I used to get good results using cleaning rods and compressed air. Ive even used those cans of air to clean computer keyboards. The carbs have to come apart just be patient and do a detailed cleanng. Most people simply take the carb apart hose it down with carb cleaner and call it clean. That doesn't do it, it takes me about 6 hours to clean a set of nasty carbs.

baldy110 wrote: Most people simply take the carb apart hose it down with carb cleaner and call it clean.

That is what I did a couple of times and see what your talking about it not working at all. I have them apart completely now and the pilot jets got trashed during tear down. I have found this set :
[html=Dennis Kirk] www.denniskirk.com/ebc/rd-n151-067-pilot...399.prd/17339950.sku [/html]
Is this correct? I also read somewhere on the forum that going from a stock #45 jet to a #50 will make the bike run a little better. But I can not find it again. Please let me know.

Can't really answer that question. Need to know what carbs you have.

I am sorry I forgot to post that. They are Mikuni BS34 carbs.

I advocate taking the carbs fully apart, soaking in something like Berryman's carb dip, and then reassembling with new O-rings and gaskets. After soaking it's best to verify the jets are clean by holding them up to a light and poke them clean using a wire as need be. I can't even fathom to count how many people short cut the cleaning process and then have to go back and do it again and again. Not to mention, 40+ year old O-rings should be updated period, because they are sure to be hard and brittle. Do it right one time and you are done.