Carb to Manifold Boots installation.

Here are the correct coils according to the manufacturer.

dynaonline.com/dynatek-products.aspx?mk=1144&mdl=2379&yr=2383

TexasKZ wrote: Here are the correct coils according to the manufacturer.

dynaonline.com/dynatek-products.aspx?mk=1144&mdl=2379&yr=2383

The ones you linked are the same model as the ones my sons ordered DC1-1. . I called Dynatek this morning.

As SWest said "its the green ones."

WarrensKZ wrote:

hardrockminer wrote: I highly recommend the Wired George relay setup for voltage to the coils. It will give you full battery voltage at the coils. Just follow the link below.

www.wgcarbs.com/index.php/using-joomla/e...-categories/89-coils

Thanks, but not really interested in that setup or spending my or my son's money on it. I want to keep this as simple as possible and as stock as possible in most ways.

Thanks.

So when the new coils don't work as expected, not saying they won't and you discover you don't have 12 volts going to the coils, you won't by the way you will just move onto throwing another new part at?

Warren3200gt wrote: vacuum leak from the CARB to the MANIFOLD suggest the clips if fitted at all, are not tight. Is the Manifold split? where exactly is the leak? Does it actually need new manifolds? A leak in one carb rubber will not affect other cylinders. If anything, that one cylinder will run weak not rich. Or.... you could just throw some more money at it in the hope it will work rather than diagnosing and resolving the actual issue !:whistle:

BTW this is what the plugs looked like

Looks like carboration to me. Too bad we didn't see this sooner.
Steve

SWest wrote: Looks like carboration to me. Too bad we didn't see this sooner.
Steve

lol it will be fine in the end!

I might get that set of useless carbs put back up to snuff. Looks like the PO changed a lot of things, needle seat etc as pointed out,

WarrensKZ wrote:

Warren3200gt wrote: vacuum leak from the CARB to the MANIFOLD suggest the clips if fitted at all, are not tight. Is the Manifold split? where exactly is the leak? Does it actually need new manifolds? A leak in one carb rubber will not affect other cylinders. If anything, that one cylinder will run weak not rich. Or.... you could just throw some more money at it in the hope it will work rather than diagnosing and resolving the actual issue !:whistle:

BTW this is what the plugs looked like

Thats a carburation issue. If it was coils, either all 4 would look like the 3 do or they would be pairs, 2 good 2 not good.
You have a spare set of carbs, set them up properly whilst off the bike. Swop them onto the bike, fine tune them by vacuum syncing them and colourtuning them, verify your float heights are still good then go enjoy the road. 2 hours work max with very little cost saving your or your sons hard earned for fuel.

Warren3200gt wrote:

WarrensKZ wrote:

Warren3200gt wrote: vacuum leak from the CARB to the MANIFOLD suggest the clips if fitted at all, are not tight. Is the Manifold split? where exactly is the leak? Does it actually need new manifolds? A leak in one carb rubber will not affect other cylinders. If anything, that one cylinder will run weak not rich. Or.... you could just throw some more money at it in the hope it will work rather than diagnosing and resolving the actual issue !:whistle:

BTW this is what the plugs looked like

Thats a carburation issue. If it was coils, either all 4 would look like the 3 do or they would be pairs, 2 good 2 not good.
You have a spare set of carbs, set them up properly whilst off the bike. Swop them onto the bike, fine tune them by vacuum syncing them and colourtuning them, verify your float heights are still good then go enjoy the road. 2 hours work max with very little cost saving your or your sons hard earned for fuel.

Thanks Warren

Only issue is, I have no idea what the person who sold the carbs to me did to them. he lied and said they were stock. Wasnt true, they are jetted for pods, and as others mentioned here the tangs are bent way beyond what they should be so no I have to figure out how to get them back to spec. Its kind of annoying.

It re the tang and float needle and seat,

In order to get that sorted, I would have to buy new float needle and seat, or JUST the seat?

Is there an efficient way to buy this, like in a set? Looks like on fleebay the seats are sold piece by piece

But you dont know what the float height in them is as you havent wet tested them. Take one carb apart study a parts diagram to ensure its all there and put it back together with the correct jets in, bench set the the slide height, wet test the flaot height and the you'll probably find the float tang needs to be put back to where it should be. Once you have done one, the others will be be simple and you'll understand them far better. Just DO NOT mix moving parts from one carb with another.
If you are unsure about anything, dont guess, ask here. We all want to help to get another back on the road.

Edited to answer your added question. The float needle and the seat must be matched so old and new of either part should never be put together with each other. Until you wet test them you dont know if you need new float valve sets or not.
Stop thinking that because something is out of tune you need to buy new. All you need to do is tune the existing one. Even if you did buy new you would still need to tune them to your carb/bike.

They are usually sold as a pair...needle and gasket. However you can buy just the gasket on Partzilla for $2.00 for all four. They also sell the OEM float valves but they're expensive at $50 bucks for all four.

I know for Z1 carbs there are two sizes (height) for the float valves so you need to get the right ones. I don't know if the same thing is true for KZ650 carbs. But if so, and if you have the wrong ones it would explain the bent tangs. If you go OEM you will at least have the correct parts.

One thing Warren3200gt keeps emphasizing is to fix one thing at a time and work your way through until the bike is performing satisfactorily. I wholeheartedly agree with him. My advice in that regard is to buy the gaskets and float valves from Partzilla (they will be OEM) or go with Keyster, who sell quality stuff. That's all I use and I don't have any issues with carbs...well at least not any longer. And that way you will be able to reset your tangs back to normal.

The float arms shouldn't have any bend in them. I'd bend the tangs straight using needle nose pliers to squeeze them straight, not bend them straight. Once that's done the 90* stop on the bottom corner should be 90* so it will prevent the floats from hanging down causing the float needle getting stuck.
My 33's were all buggered up from a ham handed PO. Once I corrected his "improvements" I was able to start tuning them and started making progress. Wish Miller was with us to see it.
As for his brother I hope I run into him someday so I can let him know what kind of MORON I think he is :evil:
Steve

Warren. Im very impressed with your technical know how and savvy. I wanted your definitive opinion on this.

Do you think we should just have the carbs that are on the bike fixed, or take the rack that I bought, get it to spec, and put that new one on your bike?

I want my son's (headstrong boys) to see your response here.

Thanks.